Fingers crossed that the problem is solved. I have used this mechanic for the last 13 years, and he has always been spot on, not only with my direct family cars but also those of my step brother and his kids too.
it is just so strange, the symptoms don't tie up with the things found while investigating the fault...... the noise has definitely gone, the only thing that my mechanic found were signs of wear on a single tooth of a gear in the rear diff, how that causes a loud, and I mean loud "CLONKING" noise that varied with regard to speed that the car was moving just doesn't seem right. Anyhow, I will let you know how things go after a few days of driving around. You never know, this might help save someone a few quid later on.

Could have been something stuck between rotor and the rock shield. (I've had that), also at least wasn't this:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...32b7665431.jpg

That's the outer belt of my tire unraveling like a knitted sweater.

Made a hell of a racket at 60 mph.

Well, the noise has returned, and the car is booked to go back into the garage. To my untrained ear, the noise seems to be coming from the front right (drivers side on our side of the pond). It really makes a loud clunk when driving slowly and as I said before as you increase the speed the frequency of the clunking increases.

Hi Andrew, if it sounds like "knock, knock " and is more pronounced when going over slight road imperfections, is it likely to be the sway bar links?

My 2012 X5M has the constant knocking sound from the bottom front of the truck, and it's sometimes noticeable, other times not.

Do you know if the 2012 X5M uses the same sway bar links as the regular E70 of the same year? And if the location is roughly the same and removal steps the same as well?

I've searched the fcpeuro site and came up with these 2 parts:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ht-37116771930

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ft-37116771929

Are they the right parts?

This youtube video shows the perished rubber on the sway bar link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNalb_8B2Uc

Sway bar link sounds like somebody sending Morse Code with a small hammer. Lots and lots of taps.

Usually wrap the joint/s really tight with electrical tape (like 10-15 wraps) will snug up the joint and make it silent. Best way to confirm and also get some peace while waiting for the part to be shipped.

Yes those are the links.

That is awesome tip. You mean wrap the rubber part that's now perished?

Just took off the wheel again to have a look at the passenger side sway bar links. The rubber boot on the top and bottom end of the link looks intact and showing no cracks, almost brand new.

I'm wrapping the tapes just the same and will do the same on the driver side link as well.

But i'm now doubtful the tap tap sound which you described exactly is coming from the sway bar links.

Will report back when I drive home tonight.

Update:

Big problem after jacking up the right front side:

1. I hear the air compressor coming on while I jacked up the car from the right front jack point. It seems to move the jack down slowly. I was using an older E30 jack that fits perfectly into the jack point.

I lowered the car quickly and decided to disconnect the battery and then jack up the right side to tape up the sway bar links.

2. After I completed the wrapping of the link I put back the tire and lowered the jack, then moved to the driver side to jack up the left front side of the car. This time using a regular floor jack with a polyurethan jack pad. (i used the same set up a couple of times on the front right yesterday when I was trying to connect the ride height sensor.

3. The bolt refused to yield and i gave up soon because i had a short wrench and wasn't getting enough force onto the bolt. So I lowered the jack and decide to do the driver side tomorrow when I can source a breaker bar.

4. I noticed that the entire right side of the car is now way up abnormally compared to the left side.

I plugged in the battery and the problem remains. I started up the car hoping the compressor would kick in again to bring the car back to level, but it didn't. I got DSC, 4X4, and car not level error.

I attempted to drive the car in reverse and then forward, and still nothing. I only moved a few feet because there's uneven forces acting on the steering wheel and I didn't want to make the problem worse than it already is.

Any suggestions?

My friend tells me to give it time and maybe it'll readjust the suspension level.

Turn the steering wheel all the way from full lock to full lock and that should extinguish the trifecta. Getting the air ride to return to normal probably will require a half mile drive. I don't understand the logic used for this but mine also takes a bit of driving to get it to sit level after it has been jacked up.