Yeah, it's weird that the German brands tend to use seals that don't hold up over time. I believe some of it, ironically, is due to environmental regulations in Germany. My experience has been the leaks are usually an issue that comes with time and doesn't really track with mileage. Most of the 2014+ BMWs I've worked on are dry FWIW, it seems like after about 10 years give or take a couple, they just start leaking like crazy.

BMW didn't fight the moronic use of biodegradable seals they lasted about 16 years on our e53s

My brothers E90 had a oil pan gasket leak and oil filter housing as did my BMW X-5 ( E70). On mine I replaced Valve cover gasket, oil plan, oil filter housing. Then all that brittle plastic on the interior and coolant hoses and outlet pipe from the block. :yikes: They don't age well... Sounds like the new ones are better? there's just something about the 07-13's where they cut corners or the bean counters used the cheapest gaskets and plastics.


That makes sense. My older X3 E89 was bone dry for the most part. Much better built.. Well... Except for the transfercase " worm gear" that broke apart. BMW used plastic on a transfercase drive gear.. That was a real hoot taking it out in pieces. :rofl: Amazon actually makes a aluminum replacement from China.. The Irony... the Chinese coming to the rescue. No idea why BMW engineers thought was good choice for a X drive AWD system. Planned obsolesce?

I have a 2008 X5 3.0si and I recently removed both lower engine covers to inspect for an oil leak also and I think I might have the same leak area based on your description and your pictures above.

However, first I am going to do the oil filter housing & oil cooler gasket since they are a common leak point and based on the YouTube videos it’s a much quicker/easier job. I usually do all my own mechanic work & but the oil pan gasket replacement looks like a very time consuming repair since it involves remove the front axles, suspension and lower engine cradle. The video I watched showed a mechanic in a independent shop with a lift and he was saying it will take him at least 10 hours to complete. My biggest fear is that I do that work and the leak continues & turns out to be the front or rear crank-seal. I am very tempted to try Blue Devil Engine Stop Leak but I know probably everyone on this site will tell me that is bad for the VANOS system and other seals. I really like my X5 and I know an oil additive is not a permanent fix but how much time and effort should a person spend on a $7000-$10000 second vehicle?

Some ultra Violet tracer will confirm exactly where the leak is.

I have two e53 both with oil pan gasket leaks.

I also blew out one of my CV joints so I need to remove that one anyhow.

On the m54 it's possible to do the oil pan gasket by cutting it for r&r vs. remove the CV axles but with the right tool it's not terrible to remove them. I may do one each route.

I expect to take two-three days to get the gasket, the CV axle, front brakes and rotors and alternator replaced

I think I am going to try BlueDevil Engine Stop Leak this weekend after doing an oil change. It’s a very thin viscosity additive and it has very good reviews. As I mentioned, I know it’s not a permanent repair and not great for the Vanos but I don’t have time to do the gasket replacements (oil pan, oil filter & cooling housing, crank seals, etc) till this summer in July since it will put the vehicle out of commission for at least a week.

So, I went ahead and replaced both the oil cooler and the oil housing gaskets. Then, I went ahead and cleaned everything up again. I am convinced that my drain bolt is the source of all that mess in the pics. About a year ago I had my drain hole retapped (don't ask me why :), and I think now it's leaking. I applied gasket maker and the leak stopped. The oil pan gasket is leaking too, but it's not nearly as bad as I originally thought.

Now, I have to figure out what to do about the drain plug leak. I think after retapping the bolt goes in a bit at an angle, so the washer doesn't hold well. I am going to try to use two washers next time, if that doesn't work then back to gasket maker. Any other ideas?

It's aluminum. Get a self threading drain plug repair kit. You bolt in the self tapping slightly larger main bolt and if comes with a stainless steel smaller inner bolt for doing future changes.

If you have 4.4 you can get a knock off lower pan for $60-70 that comes with and you said your pan gasket is leaking a little anyhow.

Try AT-205 instead it has no solids it only affects rubber and makes it softer and swell a little. I'm about to use to punt changing my ofhg.


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I bought a bottle of AT-205, but scared to use it. Just replaced my Vanos sensors a while back, but didn't notice if there was any rubber parts.

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