Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

My understand is disabled Valvetronic is not mission critical nor damaging but the phase BMW likes to use applies: drive moderately.

On the N62 a very common diagnostic technique and workaround for badly running motor is to unplug the Valvetronic motors.

The N63 is the more touchy motor regarding oil flushes.

If my n55 started acting up I'd unplug the VT motor.

Ok, I will unplug the motor for now.
I don’t think it will get any use until it is fixed, but just in case it does.
I will order an injector removal tool.

I did the valve cover gasket 10 months ago..
It is tedious, but doable. I remember the worst part being trying to install the cover while keeping the gasket in place.

Do you have a photo of the AC you’re saying to remove?

While doing this, I’m going to install the motor, plug it in and turn the key/ign on and try to calibrate and reset codes to make sure it will work before I put the cover on.
I will remove the fuel pump fuse to prevent fuel from spraying out of the lines.

Thanks.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

Start the car after pulling fuel fuse and let it starve. There will be no pressure in the many lines. I used one paper towel to collect all the fuel then burned it. (Best way to dispose of gas soaked rag just figure out a safe location like a grill)


https://share.icloud.com/photos/04bM...5rctLUh2UmbDMA

That video shows the two lines. Thai aren't removed just detached from their fixed point so they can move a bit out of the way.

Watch the way I get the VC in/out. I do a little jiggle to get the hanging bolts to get over whatever they catch on.

Hey, you still there? Says you were active today so hopefully you have some insight.

I removed the cover today and replaced the motor.
I don’t know why, but when I did the gasket last year, I struggled a bunch.
Today, as soon as the valve cover bolts were loose, I had the cover out in 2 seconds. About 1.5 hours deep into it.

I put the new motor in, connected it and it doesn’t make a rapier click right away anymore.
I can now see the shaft spin about 1/4 of the way down and then the motor spins the shaft back up until it reaches the stopping point and the motor clicks.

I have not done the Ista re learn procedure.
I also have 2 codes which will not clear.

I am hoping the motor clicking is due to the fact that the stop limits have not been learned and the motor tries to move the shaft when it’s hit the physical stopper and just clicks.
I am also hoping the 2 codes are due to the same issue, re learn has not been done.

The gear on the shaft does show some polished areas where the motor spun against it. You and others that commented on that video said they shaft was fine and there was no need to replace it. I hope that is correct.

I am going to download Ista and try the relearn procedure.
I can do the re learn procedure with the car off, right?
I have the valvetronic motor plugged in and it is making some movements.

Should I put my old motor in to see if it also behaves the same way or if moves differently?

Thanks.

Newer motors have a concept of "permanent code" you can't clear but they don't set the M.I.L. they will auto clear after the fault is fixed and enough drive cycles have completed.

I think you can run the adaptations before starting the motor key on engine off but also I think the n55 calibrates the Valvetronic every run cycle.

I'm curious what process you used to run the motor through it's paces

I have not done any re learn process through Ista.
I just put the new motor and plugged it in.
It moves the shaft down a bit and the the shaft goes up and the motor clicks because the shaft hits the stopper.

Can the Ista re learn process be done when the car is off?

I haven’t put anything together yet.
Just the motor and it’s connection.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...19e19ce638.jpg

This is the end of the procedure on tis.

I've never done this job and the video didn't mention when the motor reacts. He did say whenever unlock the car it clicked so apparently power is available key off engine off so I'm surprised the repair guide dish but start with disconnect battery

Do you have the link to that Tis?

Yes, whenever the key is near the car, the motor clicks. Almost like it’s getting in position in case you start the car. I put the new motor on and left all assembled with battery connected and it would randomly make noise from time to time. Fuel pump fuse was removed to prevent fuel from spraying everywhere.

So it looks like I need to assemble the car so I can drive it and do the run in procedure.

Here is a video of how my motor behaves now.
It is 4 different clips, but clip 2 and 3 look the same because the camera didn’t move.

The first 2 clips is how the motor moved right after install.

The third clip shows a smooth motion moving the shaft down quite a ways and then back up and clicking.
The fourth clip shows the shaft in its normal position when engine is off and the motor moves it down a bit and then back up and clicks.

Here is what I think.
The smooth motion in the third clips tells me that the gear on the shaft and the new motor will work and mesh together.
The movement of fourth clip makes me think the motor is moving the shaft down and then back up based on stock motor/DME settings, but the shaft hits the physical stopper so the motor clicks.

I am hoping that the re learn fixes this issue and it is not a shaft issue.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-HQTZ6KxQ...sVaJD7nEHEQEGz

In case things couldn’t get worse, you can also hear my 6 month old water pump beginning to fail I think. It is starting to run when the ignition is on.
Lifetime warranty from Fcp but the second most annoying job I’ve done on this.

Have a helper if you have to replace the pump. Use bimmerlink to confirm it's working properly. If it ever stops the radiator fan will kick on full speed. Mine cycled on/off every 40 seconds or so for a week while I was waiting for the parts.

I think you made a correct assessment of your Valvetronic motor and it'll act weird trying to drive past the hard stops until it's trained where they are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I am back.

I finally got ISTA.

The adaption limit position didn’t work.
I read a few posts about how updating the DME would solve this issue in some cases.
I updated the DME with winkfp and same issue.

ISTA reads out during the test on like step 4: Engine speed could not be determined to be 0 or Valvetronic motor is in emergency operation.

Well, the engine is off, so speed is 0, Valvetronic motor clicking though is probably what it means by emergency operation.

ISTA diag says to replace motor and shaft.
There is a $300 shaft on Amazon with a few good reviews and photos. I may try that.
So to do list:
Replace motor, shaft, shaft bearings and valve cover.

I do not think the DME is bad as it has been on other cars I’ve seen in threads. My Valvetronic motor still moves and there’s no internal DME faults, so it should be fine.