For tired eyes :)

Funf Dreisig

p.s. jaaX3's post made me go back and look at the full resolution version of this photo and realize I already had the evidence :)

FD, thanks so much for this write-up. I did order the kit from Tischer (got the kit a couple of weeks ago), and I did the oil change a little while ago. It is a super easy oil change with your directions. With a little more experience, I don't see this taking more than 20 minutes or so. I have a 12qt oil catcher which worked well. I'll need to find an oil drop-off place. The drain plug wasn't too difficult to remove (reinstalled at about 28nm), and neither was the filter cover (reinstalled at 25nm). I did put in the full 8 quarts and ran an errand and both the computer & dipstick read full. The engine also feels a little smoother after the change, and seems to rev/accelerate a little better (could be all in my mind, but she does have fresh blood now). Thanks again for the superb write-up.

How can you even write that?

It's common knowledge that vehicles run more smoothly after a fresh oil and filter change; go faster and get better mpg after a fresh wash & hand detail. Not to mention that their owners get taller and better looking, causing members of the opposite sex to check them out at stop lights :rolleyes:

Funf Dreisig

Maybe it is all psychological, but from riding a collection of m'cycles for 46 years,
I really do think they all run "better, smoother", etc., after an oil change; especially
my air cooled HDs. But, it could be psycho induced...:D

I also get that feeling. While logically I know it almost certainly is not true, I get that "feeling" nevertheless. Still, no denying what one "feels," it's probably like those optical illusions, where you know the line is straight, but your mind says it is curved.

However, there may be some small truth in the case of air-cooled motorcycle engines. With those, you get to hear a lot of the internal sounds, and often air-cooled high RPM engines lose more viscosity than typical water-cooled lower RPM automobile engines. Even more so when you consider most motorcycles share engine oil with the transmission gears. So you are essentially, in many cases, putting a thicker oil into the motorcycle engine when you change oil (and transmission in most cases, since most MC engines share engine and transmission oil). This can quiet the engine and tranny a bit, e.g., gear rattle in neutral, etc.

Years ago, Golden Spectrol brand MC oil played this game a bit by formulation their oils to be on the very thick end of the SAE viscosity ranges, and then getting testimonials from MC riders about how much better their engine/transmission sounded when they used GS oil.

But, as Ard said, it is mostly, if not all, in my/your head.

OT...good points Penguin.
Ah, we all loved GS oil, and many of us still ran after the higher viz range was found out. My Hondas do have the same oil circ for engine & trans, but my HDs run separate trans fluids; maybe due to their age, but the HDs really seem to run smoother with fresh oil. Conversely, my Hondas seem to shift more smoothly with new oil, though both have abundant power vs.
the HDs, so the engine diff is not noticeable.
All good for discussion.

I would not look forward to a diesel X5 oil change or, air filter change.
All you diesel guys deserve an award from BMW for your early adopter status and leap of faith!
Good Luck, mD

I've changed it once, and it really isn't too bad. They only thing I did different, was that I found it easier to remove the engine cover to access the oil filter, rather than the air intake tube. Either way gives access to the oil filter; however, removing the intake tube, as in FunfDreisig's procedure, may provide better/easier access to the filter.

I feel sorry for those without a dipstick and have to either (a) depend on the electronic level measurement and/or (b) take the oil capacity on faith and just put in the specified amount with no physical check. I like the ability to double-check things.

I've got a new filter (long one), but how to screw off the cap? what kind of tools do I need? thanks


Ran.

FunfDreisig's procedure at the start of this thread tells you, e.g., 1 1/4 inch socket or 32 mm. I splurged and bought a set of large metric sockets at Sears to get the 32 mm. Probably unnecessary, since 1 1/4 inch = 31.75 mm.

If you do as I do and take off the engine cover instead of the intake tube, you also need a long extension for the socket wrench. If you take off the intake tube, you may not need the extension.