2008 X5 3.0 won't start
 

My truck has just over 60,000 miles. we've owned it since about 7000 miles, so I know the care it's had.

Go out today to run some errands and it took a few presses of the start button to get it to run. The first couple of times, it would turn over, but only run for a second.

When I backed out of the garage into the driveway, it just stopped. I tried several more times, but this time it won't stay started long enough to get back into the garage. Then I got a message on the DIC that there was an engine malfunction and that ABS and DSC we deactivated.

Since there's a slight downward slope, I can't push it back into the garage. So, there it sits.

I put a code reader on it and got the following codes:
P1017 Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor Plausibility
P103A VVT-System Current Too High
P105B Internal Control Module VVT Error, Voltage Too Low
P1056 VVT Control Motor Bank 1 Supply Voltage Input Too Low

Anyone know what could be causing these codes? Do I just need a new battery?

I must preface this with the fact that while I have quite a bit of automobile experience, I have little BMW-specific experience.

That said,with those codes (current too high, voltage too low) I would first check the wiring and connector for a short, e.g., look for any place the harness might be touching something and wearing through. I believe the wires for this come out of the valve cover.

Additionally, you could tug and push on the wires gently to see if it makes the problem go away -- if it does, you probably have a problem inside the harness and could open it up and examine the wires.

It could just be a bad sensor, but that combination of codes points to a short, IMHO.

Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in with more specifics and/or an alternative course of action.

Truck? Oh, you mean SUV.

:)


(Sorry, pet peeve...)

BMWs really do some funny stuff with low voltages...enough to start, but then voltages too low for some modules, etc.... I am just guessing here, but first I'd trickle charge it. Disconnect the battery from the car for a while, charge it, reconnect. If it is a 4,5 year old OE battery I'd just replace it. It may NOT be the battery, but chances are you'll be needing one sooner or later. If it fixes it, great- if not you are looking at $$$ for a tow and diagnostics.

I usually buy the largest battery I can fit. I think yours is an AGM, so you will need to have the car's battery module 'reset', maybe reprogrammed if you change sizes.

I agree. It would be interesting to see what the battery voltage is before the trickle charging...

SUV? Oh, you mean SAV. http://www.xoutpost.com/images/smilies/stickpoke.gif


(couldn't resist.)

Thanks for all the replies.

And I always call it a truck. :D

So, I go out there to test the battery voltage and it starts right up.

I'll drive it to work tmr to see if there is a problem but it sounds like the 4 year old battery is about to die.

*UPDATE* So, I bought a new battery and installed it.

The truck (SUV for ard :D ) is now starting perfectly, but everytime I let it sit for a few minutes or so, I have to reset the clock when I turn it back on.

This sounds like I have to go to the dealership to have it reprogrammed. Anyone disagree or know what the issue may be?

Another update. :rolleyes:

The clock has stopped resetting itself, so I didn't take it to the dealership.

I go out today to make a run and get an "Engine Malfunction" error. I drive right back into the garage.

The codes today are P1017 and P1030 (Valvetronics Monitoring Sluggish Movement).

I guess I will have to take it to the dealership and let them reset whatever is it that's not recognizing the new battery. :confused:

OK ANOTHER update.

It threw another code and would not start. It's the eccentric shaft sensor. $1300 repair!

These new Bimmers are crap. My 2002 M5 has never needed this expensive a repair a. And it has over 100,000 miles. :rolleyes: