HoLarious, lol

No warranty deductible if I go to the used car dealer's service center.

I now know there's also no aptitude there, either.

The dealer diagnosed an evaporative emissions valve instead of the fuel pump connector. $355 since it is an emission control part not covered under warranty.

Once I told them to look at the fuel pump they decided I needed that, too. The used car dealer didn't even tell them about this discovery by their customer.

I still don't have my X. They are "arranging the replacement with the warranty company", i.e. trying to screw me out of a legitimate complaint.

too many they, them, dealer to understand which is which.... I am sure it makes sense to you, but it just turns into one big WTF?

:cool:

Indeed, just fix my car and give it back to me. What's so hard about that?

After midnight (yes, I'm a night owl) -- just got the new pump installed. Only part left is the electrical connection. Dealer sold me one wrong part (one of the two wire leads I had to purchase is too small, I think). I think I can safely jackleg it until I get the bigger part in for a more permanent repair.

Got the electrical leads hooked up last night -- err, this morning, rather -- and it runs fine. No gas smell after completely filling the tank, but the CEL is still on. Hoping it will go off after a set number of cycles. If not, I will see if Autozone can clear out the code for me, so I can check for reoccurrence. I went ahead and used the one too-small connector lead the dealer sold me, temporarily. Think it will be okay until I get the larger gauge version in. The leads on the pump itself are probably just as small (1 mm, I think), but I want to stick with the (2.5 mm, I think) wire size that was on the original connector. I'll do a little write-up here later on the part nos. I used, and the hoops I went through in swapping the pumps out. It's just a little tricky if you haven't done one exactly like this before.

Oh -- my wife was so sweet, she left it on 00 miles to empty for me to work on the pump. How lucky is she? She neither burned up nor ran out of gas.

I think you are right, it should reset itself after multiple starts and drives.
If you have anyone, with obdII scanner, you can clear the codes earlier.

If you can do this, you really should invest in a rudimentary code reader. A few $.

^ I got to agree with "ard"

Got my car back (finally) with a new FP and evap valve. AC also working. They didn't, however, fix the rumbling vibration at idle in drive. Engine mounts were checked (NOT by the BMW dealer, where the car was for most of last week), but they still are a suspect. I'm wondering about transfer case and transmission mounts as well, and perhaps there is a software calibration update that changes the idle speed a bit to get out of the resonant zone. I think eventually I'll have the dealer diagnose.

The fuel pump thing really has me upset. This is such a safety issue and it happened on MY car, not someone else's. I may ask to talk to the zone rep, if they still use those in the car biz. What's more, the dealer didn't even recognize the problem; I, their customer, had to lead them to it!