I mean, the EGR delete is a strictly reliability related modification. DPF would be best too, but I get not wanting to be rid of that. I know the tuners would be able to give you a tune just to tune out the EGR when deleted. The question is, do you keep the SCR? Maybe leave the DPF if the tuners can leave the regens in, but do away with the SCR and EGR, so youdon't have to worry about DEF tanks anymore either?

exactly. the smell comes from not having a DPF. EGR and SCR don't effect smell. Deleting the EGR will stop carbon build up as well.

Contact Dima at DUDMD. He's a great guy and will take care of you

Drove it in the snow to Reno through 80 east. Trip was about 500 miles r/t and seemed to burn about 1/4 qt of oil.

On the way home, I noticed the backup camera displayed a black screen. I stepped out and banged the sheetmetal around the camera a few times and got it working for a bit. Hopefully, it dries out and ends up working. Otherwise, used cameras are around $100 on ebay.

Finished up replacing the front brakes yesterday using Zimmerman rotors and Akebono Euro pads.
The caliper bracket E12 bolts were quite snug, but with a little heat, they broke loose. Everything else was uneventful.

I was having some vibration with light braking. I first replaced the lower control arms, but the vibration was still there, although somewhat reduced.

Now, I have smooth braking with no vibration at any speed and braking force.
While the front end was in the air, I also knocked out an oil change. ��

Replaced the long bolt going through the transfer case support. Apparently, the nut had fallen off and disappeared. Dealer told me a few weeks ago when I went for recall. It was hanging half way out of the carrier. Both bushings/bearings are shot.

Still can't figure out where the buzzing is coming from. Sounds like it's coming from the middle to the back of the vehicle. Typically hear it loud and clear between 42-55mph. It's scaring the bejeezus out of me. Considering going to an indie or dealer to try to find it.

Topped off the oil after looking at the OFHG and shaking my head when trying to figure out a time to get it replaced. Already have that, the VCG, and the Oil Cooler Gasket staring at me every time I go into the garage. Just need the time.

When I closed the hood, I barely touched the driver side kidney grill. The entire thing fell out. This two section part is a POS from BMW. I went through too much of this nonsense with my E39's. Oddly, never had a problem with my E32. Go figure. Why is BMW still making these grills cheaply? The tabs are tiny and break off quickly. I'd imagine these are the originals though, and we know what age and heat does to plastic. So, I used JB Weld to put secure the chrome lip to the backing. Waiting for it to dry so I can put it in.

Looking at some of the Ebay knockoffs, it appears to me they are secured better. Of course, there are no chrome available, only gloss black. With a dark Oxford Green car, not sure if it will look right.

I have a 335d and X5d both completely deleted and tuned. The 335d got a downpipe with an aftermarket DOC and the x5 I simply gutted the DPF and left the factory DOC intact. The difference in exhaust smell between the two cars is surprising. Even with the aftermarket DOC the 335d has the distinct diesel odor. The X5 exhaust smells more like a modern diesel with everything still intact. Neither car smokes under normal driving.

Yeah, I would just clean that area and monitor. That oil could have come from a small spill when changing the oil filter and then it was blown all over by the fan. The CAC pipe typically leaks before the FMIC on the 335d so I would look for a mess there also.

I replaced a fog light that had come unclipped and smashed itself the other day- must have been poorly installed. I'll epoxy my PDC sensor bracket back in place next week with the warmer weather, and I just ordered a new drivers side rear inner tail to replace my burned out LED's. so... by the send of next week, I will hopefully have an error free startup! I can't wait!!


I have a delete+ tune planned for next Saturday too, so that should really wake the car up, improve mpg and reliability.


Sidenote- the fact that a PDC sensor error will block the entire backup screen, and force you to see the error screen instead of continue showing you the camera of what's around you, is completely asinine, and counter productive. I don't care if your ultrasonic sensors are't working, why would you take away the ability to see what's around/ behind me while I'm backing up?!?!?

3 days ago: I mounted the PDC, and the bracket is in place. I repaired the broken with on the harness side of the connector, but maybe my sensor was damaged when it was hit. Ordered a replacement off ebay, a used OEM one. This one is on and off giving an error now, after working the moment we put it back together. Grr...

2 days ago: I also installed the carplay box, and now have fully functioning carplay in my e70! Super happy with this, and it operates as if it was there from the factory.

Yesterday: Changed my squeaky blower motor out with a new one, and swapped in 3 new cabin air filters. 2 in the engine bay, and the recirculation filter. I'm attempting to rid my vents of the cigarette smell. The latter smelled light cigarettes, so I'm hoping a fresh one really helps rid the lingering smell. At some point I'll be getting a real interior detail, but until then, I'll survive with fresh(er) air blowing in my face!


Saturday I'm having my 35d deleted and tuned with DUDMD. Then Sunday I'm driving 800 miles round trip to pick up my new (to me) 18' car trailer! getting it for a good enough deal that the day of driving is worth it. Going to get through a lot of my audiobook that day!

Getting ready to paint my brake calipers. Cleaned them up first with a few wire wheels and hit them with the high heat primer. I had removed my ABS pump to replace my catalytic converter,(https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-bank-1-a.html) so I needed to have my lines bled anyways. It's only right to paint my calipers the legit way by removing them. Going to paint them a blueish color with some BMW decals and install some Powerstop Z16 pads and rotors all around.

Replaced the right rear body mounted TPMS sensor transceiver and the primary TPMS receiver on the '08. TIS stated that the transceiver was located in the forward part of the wheel well right by the back door, but that is wrong. Turns out it's on the rearward part, basically just forward of the bumper. You still need to remove a portion of the wheel well liner to make the replacement.

The primary receiver is confirmed for the '08 to be located under the left side (drivers side for LHD) on the outside of the frame rail. You pull the left side under body cover and just behind the front door and there it is.

Now, as I await a new plastic rivet gun to replace/reinstall the right rear fender molding with new plastic rivets I am cleaning up some appearance issues. :D Hopefully I'll have this one back on the road come Tuesday or Wednesday.

Harbor Freight has a cheap handheld plastic rivet tool that is great for working on these things. Have used it with OE plastic rivets as well as aftermarket ones ordered on Amazon and it works great with all. The rivets it comes with are cheap and have a failure rate of about 10% but even they work for somethings.
It's compact too, though still requires wheel/tire removal to do the fender arches.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...ets-97757.html

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...mage_12526.jpg

the e-brake switch broke and I was able to find a replacement on eBay for $14!! The new part has the Auto-Hold switch too which my old one didn't! I had read that e70's manufactured after a certain production date can be retrofitted with ebrake Auto-Hold. I was surprised and happy to see that working on my 2007 x5 4.8.

The quality of the aftermarket part is really good. Fit is 100%.

It took me close to 20 mins to finish the job.

Thought I'd share since this seems to be a common issue.

Attachment 75722

Attachment 75723

swapped out the worn ignition button..

https://i.imgur.com/iIVfwpE.jpg?1

Did you use one of the aftermarket buttons caps available on eBay and elsewhere, or did you use a BMW OE button?

HI. I actually replaced the whole switch with a OE BMW unit.

I used an ebay button on mine. I had to remove the button and push in on some tabs that hold it in. It might be possible to do it with sticky clay but I was taking it apart to wrap it anyway.

I also wrapped the wood with 3M 1080.

Attachment 75754

I might have went a little crazy on the center console by doing it in addition to the rails but it had some slight pocks and peeling in the coating so I did it to see how it would work. I had to cut it out around the recess but it came out pretty good. It is basically impossible to align the weave on the pieces so I didn't try and it came out close enough to look good IMO.

I may still remove it from the cup holder and shifter surrounds (and get new black trim pieces but I haven't decided yet)

Now if there were only ebay shifter park buttons.... The OEM park button replacement kit that costs $75+.

Attachment 75755

For my "what did I do today" here are some more wrap pictures.

Steering wheel trim:

This took a bit of work but came out pretty good. My steering wheel is heated but I didn't bother to cut the wrap for the LED indicator which is now just covered.
Attachment 75756

example door panel (driver is in the opposite direction)
Attachment 75757

It is necessary to buy a 3ft x 5ft section of the wrap to get the BMW carbon fiber direction on the dash (has to use it on the short side) with the 1080wrap. It would have to be in the other direction with a long narrow piece.

-Rich

Added another quart of oil.

Coded a few things including full angel eye brightness, deactivated rear daytime lights, folding/unfolding mirrors with remote and disactivated safety warning upon starting.

Bought Carly and the app for about $150. Codes my brothers e91 so it was worth it for me already.

I just coded almost the same as you but I also did the trunk lock/open with key fob, euro hazards, vehicle speed in cluster and some other tid bits I cant remember at the moment.

Anyone have the torque specs for the alternator bolts on a N62? And the idler pulley?

I've found 38Nm for the alt bolts, but it was a different vehicle and alternator pictures looked completely different.

Have it all snug and taking a break.

Looking through newTIS and find 38 Nm again, so going with that.

But finding 80 and 90 Nm for the idler pulley which seems absolutely absurd. Tensioner is only 22Nm.

Just thought I'd close the loop on this. Alternator was on it's way out. We were having issues with the battery being low on really cold days, and the car not starting, but things seemed fine on warmer (as in above 10 deg). Then on the way to visit the relatives, about 20 min of highway driving, we got a transmission malfunction, engine malfunction, disabled ABS, DSC warnings and the transmission downshifted. Pulled over, restarted, it was fine. Couple more weeks went by, same warnings happened to my wife a turn away from her work, parked, attempted to restart, didn't work. I ran over there after work, jumped it, but voltage was reading under 11V and got the christmas tree of lights again. We were both busy, so left it at work until the weekend, went to tow it but decided to jump it again, voltage read fine after starting so just drove it home. Battery held up fine in the two weeks it was parked in the driveway and things were happy post alternator install so can finally conclude it wasn't the battery, nor a drain, just a weak alternator.


However doing the job made me notice that there's a fairly significant leak from the timing covers and valve cover gaskets. I don't have time, so looking to taking it to an indy in the next couple weeks. Kind of wondering if the oil all over the alternator was part of its failure.

My timing cover and valve cover leaked for almost a year before i replaced their gaskets. Alternator had oil all over but never failed to charge. But i can see how oil can damage the alternator depending how heavy the leak is and location.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Well shucks, my long post got lost in a browser error.

Long story short, it's been 2k miles since my delete a week ago in my X5d. Got 24.5 mpg towing home 400 miles, and 28.6 with aggressive daily driving. Used to get around 24.5-25 in the same conditions. That tank was 570 miles, including driving into nyc aggressively, and towing my trailer for 20 miles to bring it to my shop.

I LOVE the delete- no noticeable noise increase AT ALL in the cabin, but crack the windows and you hear a wonderful, sweet turbo spool, all the time. I love it. the power is insane, and on a launch my tires struggle for grip on all 4 corners, it's awesome.

Today i changed front and rear differentials oil with Liqui Moly 75w90 GL5. Took exactly 1 L front and 1 L rear. The rear diff was easy same bolt for drain and fill. The front diff was a pain in the axx. Some metal tubing blocking the fill plug and my 14mm hex socket is too fat. Had to separate the 14 mm hex tip from its socket and use a box end wrench to loosen the bolt. Was a bit tricky but got it done.

Drained oil looked creamy white in the rear. The front wasn't too dark (had a reddish tint to it). New oil is almost clear.

Took the car for a test drive. No change in driveability.

All in all wasn't too hard of a job once i figured out how to get the 14 mm hex tip in the fill plug.

Cheers!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Xoutpost.com mobile app

I had similar issues with the front. I ended up popping the 14mm part out of the allen socket and putting it into a small 14mm socket. That gave me room to get it past from the driver wheel well with a long extension and swivel. I used a bit of tape around the key to keep the key in the socket. The smaller socket helped a lot compared to the large 1/2" drive harbor freight Allen socket that hit the lines.

So we both essentially had the same idea to get it done.

-Rich

My x5 has adaptive steering, there is a pressure line that runs in front of the fill bolt leaving very little clearance.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Awesome, this is still a thing?? I had the same issue on my 98 M3. Still have the stubby piece of 14mm allen key I cut off to put in a box end wrench.
Too funny!

Mine has adaptive drive but does not have active steering.

S2VAA - Chassis & suspens. setup "Adaptive Drive"

It does not have: S217A Active steering

With adaptive drive the line is in the way but the m14 socket was thin enough to get it past it. It was touching and I was pushing on the line but it worked.

-Rich

Put baby in the shop this morning. Alternator bracket oil leak, valve cover oil leak, passenger side hood cable broke, thrust rod bushing and windshield washer tank cracked. Having it all done to get baby back in tip top shape. We saw the oil leaks a couple of month's ago but they were just weeping then. He said to wait a couple of month's and sure as shooting, they need to be done now. All the rest of the stuff is really not that bad so I am having it all done at once.

Make sure the upper timing cover gaskets and all associated o-rings are replaced too when the valve covers are removed.

Pads and sensors all round. Investigating tyre options (less harsh alternatives to 20" Bridgestones).

washed and cleaned the interior yesterday
https://i.imgur.com/PNUY91th.jpg

Spent 4 hours installing Meyle camber adjustable upper control arms in the front to gain more negative camber.

The genuine set is a fixed/non adjustable at .5 negative and about $300ea. I ordered mine off ebay with these Meyle part #s
3160500033HD
3160500034HD

The power steering was seeping a bit from the opening so I put on a new o-ring.

Also installed the summer wheels/tires.

Installing the 4x4 shop 8.1 android unit

Installed mine last week.. however I could get gPS signal .. every wire is connected and double checked.


Dr. Moustafa Kassab
Bmw e70 2012

Who did you buy the android head unit from?

Ali express.. cost me 460$ with shipping .. cheapest price for px6 processor with actuall 8.1 android..


Sent from my iPad using Xoutpost.com

what windshield do you have, the coated one? That probably reduces or blocks the GPS reception. Try it outside for a moment and see what happens.

I got the greenish with HUD .. I actually dangled the cable put the gps on the roof and stayed in an open area for a good 20 min.. no dice


Dr. Moustafa Kassab
Bmw e70 2012

Cheapest=no support

Actually the seller has been replying constantly.. just though to speed up the process here if some passed with this issue before.. besides.. I see a lot of guys complaining of no support from the avin guys


Sent from my iPad using Xoutpost.com

Can you post a link to the unit?

Look what I found on AliExpress
http://s.aliexpress.com/a26RZ7bU



Sent from my iPad using Xoutpost.com

Thanks

https://i.imgur.com/uTSYuJ9.jpg?1

Along with the valve cover I'll be doing some other maintenance and preventative work. Thermostat, engine oil and filter, engine air filter, harmonic dampener, front pads and rotors.

- Uploaded latest version of DUDMD engine tune
- Sutphin TCU Tune
- Change fuel filter
- fixed leaked by replaced ATM charge pipe with new seal and customed Bracket

Sold it.



Unreliable money pit.



But it was fun while it lasted.

Did you buy it?


Dr. Moustafa Kassab
Bmw e70 2012

Style 87s, full delete, and new steering wheel. (Alcantara /perforated)

http://i65.tinypic.com/okzehj.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/4hcqpv.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2qn4g47.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/oqkplh.jpg

fyi 4x4 shop and Avin USA is the same unit rebranded. (Avin/Inav)



I almost purchased a 4x4 shop unit then contacted Avin to ask what's up with the youtube comparison video making the Avin unit look like shit..
Avin support told me they sell the same unit.. Avin, Inav, same thing made in the same factory and the crappy unit in the movie ISN'T an Avin unit, only has an Avin sticker.



I ended up buying an Avin unit and with shipping, duty and exchange it ended up costing me $715.55 CAN for the unit, anti glare screen protectors, GPS and AUX splitter. I ended up finding an Android auto dongle on Amazon for $74 CAN as well.



Hopefully anyone reading this post in Canada and thinking about buying an Avin unit isn't fooled by the Youtube movie..

Niiiice! I've always liked the Style 87 wheels. Did you have to machine the centers? Use any spacers to get that fit? Also, what tint % did you use on your front and rear windows?

Ordered new vanos solenoids to get rid of the 2A87 code. Also, ordered the cables to use delete to disable xdrive to make it RWD for the spring and summer. Only took it for a short drive and only difference I feel is less underwater in U-turns.

Eventually, I’ll get it on 4 jack stands to confirm the front isn’t getting any power.

http://i63.tinypic.com/68a6pg.jpg

Thanks! Bored out slightly to fit the 74mm. Each wheel is about 20lb lighter than the style 333s I originally had. Spacers not needed but put 20mm on the rear. Likely also do 20mm on the front. 20% all around on tint.

Threw on $6 led license plate housings from eBay seller “angelstore”. They’re a lot brighter than led bulb replacements.

Nice! any reason unobtanium over the regular material used in deletes?

Well I have this great new mod... it reduces my annual mileage...

I drop X5d off to dealer.. and the dealer give me a loaner and they keep my SUV for weeks yes WEEKS...... I never hear anything, I don't bother them about it because I do not care.

During this current go, I have logged 1200 miles on the loaner (3 weeks).

Previously to this visit, I dropped X5 off, dealer had it for a month, confirmed engine was consuming too much oil and started a "1000 Mile Oil Consumption test", and like magic, as I refueled at 1009 miles, the Test completed and two codes appeared.

Frankly I am of the opinion that US dealerships have NO clue how to work on the diesel engines/Emission systems, Lack of training and general low brow-ish not giving a two craps.

Better yet, hopefully anyone from Canada just goes to Alibaba and orders it direct the same way Avin and 4x4shop are doing before they mark it up to end consumer.

those 87 looks real good.

Wanted a quality product (materials, welds, fitment) with the largest diameter pipe available. Weight savings not a big deal obviously in a SUV but doesn't hurt either.

Finally drove my X5 for the first time this morning!

In the last few weeks I've been cleaning up all the little things that were not functioning since I picked it up.

Rear air suspension lifting on it's own to max height. Replaced the rear height sensors, seemed to do the trick.

Codes for catalyst efficiency. Changed both rear O2 sensors. No more engine light.

Did an oil change just because.

iDrive knob was all broken, ordered a used one from Ebay and replaced it. Finally have access to iDrive menu now.

Because I have iDrive access I could now look at the TPMS warning I was getting. Set all tire pressures and reset through iDrive, problem solved.

Had no stereo sound in the vehicle. Went through all fuses, everything checked out fine. Started worrying I might be replacing the amp. Pulled rear cover to at least look at the amp and see what I'm dealing with. Amp was missing it's own fuse for some reason. Put a 20A fuse in and voila I have sound!! Love the simple fixes.

But when checking the sound, found that my CCC volume knob is broken. It still functions to turn it off and on with a push, but it doesn't control volume at all. SWC work just fine, so I'm leaning towards just letting it be. Maybe if I'm feeling rambunctious I'll pull the CCC unit out one day and see if I can't jimmy rig some sort of repair for the volume knob.

Still needing a really good detail job on this thing. But it was nice to finally park the old work beater Accord and start driving the cheap X5 for work commuting.

Where did you get the wheel? I have a base model, and man, I'm wanting to swap the steering wheel and I'm even considering the seats. I need a sport wheel that's heated though.

Found it on the BMW X5 (E70) Facebook page in Poland for about $400. It's a good source for things found round the world. Sold the old one for $250. Wheel works just like OEM with all functioning controls including the heating element. Only thing I needed to buy was the sport airbag that I sourced for another $120. Could've just bought the cover and swapped but didn't. Wheel also stitched in the M colors that's a cool touch. Coming from Audis, I've always liked the feel of the air leather and it makes a nice difference when driving.

Does the person sell them, or was this a one off? I'd 100% purchase one if I could get it without the alacantra parts, just completely perforated leather.

I am in that group, but I've never seen this wheel on there!

PM sent

F85 Rotors (Front and Rear) with CarboTech pads...

Swapped a coil pack in for cylinder 4 as it was misfiring and threw a check engine code. Also checked the spark plug and found Autolite Platinums so I know what I’m doing this weekend.

It was wet outside so I drove it around and accelerated hard enough to get the rear break traction with xdrive disabled to confirm delete works. No stand still burnouts because the 3.0 is not powerful enough with 315mm wide tires.

Don't see THAT very often!!

I cleaned out my X5 after a trip to the beach last weekend. Had the floor mats out and in the passenger rear seat footwell I saw the courtesy light falling out of the carpet again... the carpet hole is too large for the light to fit snugly and stay. I had fixed it previously by inserting a piece of plastic card cut to fit behind it but my kid must have kicked it out. That little job had me cursing as its in an awkward position and there wasn't enough light... But I got it back in place.

Then I pulled it into the garage with the tailgate up!!! F@#$*^&$
The rear wiper pivot took the entire hit, broke off the little plastic cover. Its maybe not as tightly fit in the rubber grommets in the window now but seems to be ok.
Dealer had a cover in stock, ~$7, need to run down and grab it this wknd and pop it on.

265,000km, picked it up for 5400$CAD, so like 45$USD. If I wasn't a mechanic it'd be expensive in maintenance I imagine. lol Fingers crossed though. After 4 BMW's I promised myself I'd never buy another. But here I am in my 5th.

Wheel alignment today. Front was towing out after lowering springs and upper arms at max negative.

http://i67.tinypic.com/epjfhz.jpg

Dodged a huge bullet.

Got home yesterday, got out of the car, and saw a huge puddle of coolant growing underneath when I went to the door and did my obligatory "you are such a hot bitch" look back.

I saw dried coolant around the upper hose connection to the radiator. Pulled it into the garage last night and started pulling things off to get to it. Thank God this happened. I found "cotton" all over the place. At first, I couldn't figure out where it came from, but then looked at the Serpentine belt. It had huge chunks out of it, in some places it was only half width, and there were little ribbons of the belt all over the place.

Spent this evening pulling little pieces of ribbon from around the alternator pulley (it was very tough to turn with TWO belt ribbons around it), pulled the tensioner off and removed the chunks and ribbons of the belt from around it, even having to get a pick to pull the end out from the last piece so I could unravel it from the power steering pump.

These belts are a little more than a year and a half old. They shredded because before I replaced the valve cover, tensioner, and OFHG, they got soaked in oil, which as we all know degrades the belts badly. I had the belts in my garage but got lazy before putting everything back together. Yet another lesson learned: REPLACE THE DAMN BELTS YOU KNOW ARE ALREADY BAD, ESPECIALLY IF YOUR LAZY KIESTER HAS THE BELTS SITTING RIGHT NEXT TO YOU.

The hose, an OE from Hendrick BMW, was $126, plus two bottles of coolant, which I didn't need to refill and bleed, but I was down to a couple of quarts left of my spare anyway.

I can't imagine how disgusted I would have been leaving work and throwing that belt. At this point, I am actually THANKFUL that the hose was leaking (a VAICO from the previous owner) because it had been two weeks since I had the hood open and would not have seen that belt mess otherwise. And to brag, I'm getting really good at putting a new AC belt on by hand. No install tool.

;)

EDIT 5/25:

****MAJOR CORRECTION****

Now that I can see it in the light, turns out my 14-month-old Nissens radiator is leaking like a sieve. FCP Lifetime Warranty is going to be put to the test. Ordered a new one, completed warranty paperwork. So, other than the $7.99 cost to ship my new one, and my yet unknown cost to ship back the warrantee one (Going as cheap as humanly possible), no cost.

Washed the car, cleaned the interior and took pictures in order to sell it.

Replaced a faulty transfer case (ATC-700) Control Unit to eliminate 4x4, ABS, TC, EBrake Errors. A few days driving in 2WD with no ABS or TC made me appreciate that the 20” staggered wheel and tire package really tames the beast, at least in the dry :)

Traded her in for a Tesla Model 3. She started losing coolant (slowly) and was burning a quart every 750 miles, among other little problems/needs (tires, brakes, front suspension, power mirror, etc). It was time. I’ll miss her, but am looking forward to the next chapter in vehicle ownership.

Removed the center console phone tray

Enjoy the Model 3! How did they treat you with the trade-in?

As expected. About 35% under private party value. However, considering the $2-3k in work it needs (items I listed), I was happy to get it off my hands. I doubt I'll ever own another BMW.

Replaced radiator, only took about 30 minutes. Was sure to put the new seals in the hoses too.

Bled her and fired her up, and what'ya know?

ANOTHER DAMN LEAK

This time it *appears* to be coming from underneath the power steering pump. I think it's that long hose coming from the bottom of the expansion tank. It connects to two different hoses underneath the steering pump. That is where all the coolant appears to be dripping from, anyway.

Anyway, screw it. Going to the dealer tomorrow and paying $145 + tax to have them find the damn leak, then I will order the damn hose from FCP.

Brigette is starting to piss me off. If she keeps this up, I'm going to start seeing other BMW's.

Where’d you get the seals for the hoses?

I plan on replacing the radiator soon. I plan on sticking with the older style radiator with more hoses I believe. Rather not replaces hoses if I don’t have to.

Came with the radiator. Nissens rad from FCP Euro

I just updated from Rod Sutphin's v9.5 to v11.2. Looking forward to feeling out teh car and feeling tehtweaks he's made. I think I liked the 7.5 I was on prior to the 9.5 best, it had adapted perfectly to very economical driving. Shifted early, and help a gear to let is spool very well, even at low rpm. (.5 seemed too eager to shift down for me, I find that its often faster to just stick in teh gear I'm in and use the turbos then to downshift and go. That's the main reason I love manual transmissions, it's the ability to actually let the motor use all the torque it can make in each gear.

So, here is the hose that was leaking like a sieve.

You see, when you are under the hood a couple of months ago, replacing the valve cover to stop the oil leak, having already replaced the OFHG and OCG, and you already see that OIL HAS DESTROYED ALMOST ALL OF THE RUBBER THAT GOT OIL ON IT, and here is the fun part...

YOU HAVE NEW BELTS SITTING RIGHT NEXT TO YOUR FAT AZZ ON THE BENCH

You DON'T whine like a little beeyotch about how tired you are after putting all that stuff back together, you reach your little dick beaters down there and replace the damn belts! Otherwise, you will be picking hunks of cotton and strings of the shredded belt from EVERYwhere underneath the hood, and you will apparently have a ribbon of belt come off the power steering pump and drag on the coolant recovery tank hose and make a nice tidy hole that you can't see UNDERNEATH the power steering pump and leave a nice big puddle of your expensive coolant EVERYwhere. :rant:

So..... lesson learned. Don't be lazy. See it? FIX IT. I only regret that my foot and leg is not long enough to put up my OWN azz. That cost me WAY too much money in overnighted parts, Lyft and Uber, coolant.... and sanity.

So I bought a 2012 X5d with 60k miles last month after driving E53's for the past 18 years. On the drive home I closely watched the MPG's expecting mid-high 20's. I got 21mpg and I knew something was wrong. After searching through here, I theorized the thermostat was bad as the engine coolant never rose above 78*c. Last week the engine light came on, and error P0675 (bad #5 glow plug) confirming my suspicions.

Replaced:
Thermostat
waterpump
glow plug module
coolant flush
oil and filter change

This all took only about 4 hours as I've replaced most of those items on prior e53's. It would've taken ~3 hours had I not snapped off the coolant level sensor beneath the reservoir. $600 in parts, $0 labor. BMW gave me a quote of ~$3k, and my local indy ~$2500.

I also poorly replaced one coolant hose causing the hose to separate from its intended connection, spewing coolant, and stranding me on the road. A free AAA tow to the nearest store and off I go. Stupidity penalty accepted.

All and all, I'm loving the new truck and very thankful for this community!

Refilled the DEF fluid 700 miles from home after getting the reserve tank DEF fluid no start warning countdown. Just added 2 gallons as I did not want to over fill the main tank. Took a few minutes for the reserve tank to get filled back up via to the pump but warning is now gone. Not a big deal, but the wife was getting weirded out by the count down. ;)

I still have to replace my GPM, I've had it in the trunk for months now.... How was it? I've seen the guides and all, and started it once but then figured it was going to take longer than the 30 mins I had that day before needing the car again. Hoping to get to it this coming week.

Honestly, not bad at all if you follow the youtube posted in this thread. I loosened a few more hoses and removed an additional coolant hose as my hands couldn't quite get in the space needed. The long flat screwdriver is the key, as well as placing tape inside the sockets to reduce the chance of dropping them while navigating the hose spaghetti. 30min may be a bit tight to do this, but I'm comfortable saying 45min would be the max needed to do it again.

On a similar note, the x5 through the P0402 code yesterday and limped for a bit, but partially reset after restarting the engine. I removed and cleaned the EGR/EGR valve (wasn't too bad at all but did have a fair amount of oil present), replaced everything, and the engine light has gone away. Time will tell if the issue was resolved. I think the next project will be an intake clean. I have a feeling the last owner drove many miles on the failed thermostat.

Replaced my heater valve in hoping to get cooler AC [emoji2960][emoji2960][emoji2960]
Valve rubbers on the old valves were torn.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b595888981.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a249a4f5c2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Removed the Nokia cradle, running wiring to fit my GPS and dashcam (no support for the in-built GPS plus enormous $$$ to even get the last version of the DVD). New-to-me X5 4.8 since 4 days ago. First BMW after a life of Benz, Audi, and Holden (mostly).

Finally got my BMW software running!! It's unbelievable how hard it is to find information on that stuff. Turns out INPA is essentially useless for E70, I needed ISTA.

With ISTA running I was able to do the level calibration for the rear air suspension. Vehicle drives so much better today.

Also, had an on off issue with the right rear signal light. Bulb sockets in the rear housing are all burnt. Added an extra ground and everything seems to be working good again. Just waiting on new bulb sockets to show up in the mail now.

mkurniawansyah, which heater valve did you go with?

I went with an off-brand $50 valve and it seems to only go full hot or full cold.

Last week ordered the E70 LCI Aero kit. Yesterday adjusted the rear center lower gate latch to get rid of a noise. It Worked =)

New side turn lights

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6573872596.jpg

What was the noise you were experiencing and did you adjust the latch back to the front of the car - tightening the connection when closed?

On the lower tailgate, the latch has two bolts. I loosened them just enough to move the latch and adjusted it a bit back. Tested it, and the trunk made noise still and then the TRUNK OPEN light came on. So i adjusted it a bit forward. It took 3 times actually just adjusting it to get it right. Now no creaking noises from the rear area. There are also 2 latches on the side of the vehicle that catch the same gate. I adjusted those to sit a bit forward as well. Now the tailgates line up and no noises.

Replaced the front brake pads and rotors yesterday to try and get rid of steering wheel vibration around 80+ mph.

After the swap, I noticed the front right rotor wasn’t true and made a knocking sound when braking. They’re $50 Brembo blanks from FCP and I’m working on getting a replacement now.

Replaced the rear reflectors with the IND units. Very happy with them and their service. I bought the fronts as well but those will be installed at a later date.

https://i.imgur.com/GcEIA1z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dj2W3EN.jpg

Debadged the tailgate and doors, adjusted the drivers door striker plate to get the body lines back to normal and changed the oil/topped off urea (getting a funnel in the process....hooray!).

Today I swapped out the stock D1S for CBI's. What a pain to get in/out...


Also swapped out the stock reverse bulbs for these...


https://i.imgur.com/nIM5EX4.jpg

Downloaded xDelete on Friday and the car feels different as expected! I like it and hope to do a trans tune soon. I'm leaning towards xHp (I still need their license), but hear good things about Rod Sutphin as well. Just have to decide I guess..

I also took the E70 to have the layer of tints (previous owner tinted the already tinted factory windows) removed from the rears and tinted the two front windows to match at 35%. The pic shows a bit darker then in person, I like it.

https://i.imgur.com/62FIznQ.jpg

Just got back from a trip to MV Mass. Great road trip and the X ran great.

BC coils. Super happy with the ride quality and height.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2nc1etf.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/119s8ep.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2uzxeg9.jpg

Looks great!!

Man, if I didn't hop curbs and tow so regularly, I'd lower mine too. Looks SO fresh.

Sometime, I need to black out the reflectors on my car. Stinkin Pri-LCI doesn't have any ready made replacements like IND.

I also need to think about new headlights, as mine are just starting to get dim with age and hours on them.

As for things I've actually done, on sunday I finally swapped my steering wheel. Got this heated sport wheel in GREAT condition for a great deal from a member.
Pre: https://i.imgur.com/qzcuTYw.jpg
Post: https://i.imgur.com/dyR1e56.jpg

Super happy with the new wheel. Pressing the horn is harder from the middle, but if I heel the lower half, it seems to honk OK.

The evening of 7/8, dropped it back off to dealership.. and they are completely replacing the DPF system... apparently the BMW engineer came down from up on high, spend the day on vehicle and told them what to fix...

Today, provided they give it back to me, I toss a fresh set of 19” rims and tires on it.


Another item I will be doing is X5M transmission pan mod with new crossover seals, fluids, etc...


Have had a lovely 2019 X5 loaner for about 1200 miles... great vehicle... arguably the best way to test drive something... lol




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What have you done to your E70 today?
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f8d5e2a3f1.jpg

So I bought a new standard plastic pan with integrated filter and the X5M AL with separate gasket and filter


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7508ffe888.jpg

So the rear four bolts of this cover are a PITA... had to make a tool, cut down a T-40 Torx bit was a ball buster on both removal and install.


Also had to cut the rear fins on The AL pan on a 45deg angle to clear the transfer/transmission cross member support.


Bridge seal was shot! And the tube seals were flush with the mating surface... no life left...

Also!

Coincidentally, Blackstone Labs report came in on the old transmission fluid that same day!!


“There's some extra metal compared to the universal averages, but nothing we consider concerning
or surprising considering the longer interval on the oil. And if this is just the first oil change on this
transmission, that explains some of the metal too. The averages in this case are based on just under
35,000-mile intervals. This oil was run almost twice as long. The viscosity was fine and no contamination
turned up. Insolubles measured at just a trace. The particle count was 23/21/17. You could run this oil
longer, but an oil change would help clear metals out.”


Not bad!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How many miles on the transmission? Just curious as to when the bridge seal and tubes should be changed out and average of life?

71k miles


And I don’t know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the DPF removed and cleaned. Saw the car on friday six feet in the air. The DPF is sitting next to it shiny and clean. Mechanic who is working on it is on a long weekend.... :=) Ugh.
Picking it up on Friday and then need to attach the new hitch. Pics when I get it back.

Going to have to replace my rear badge. The cover came off in a car wash. I have the part now I just have to get the old base off to get on the new one.

Oil change on the 35d yesterday. Today the rear diff along with some odds and ends. Replace destroyed jacking pad, fuel filter, and a few misc other items.

I have to do the same, for the same reason. :) Just left the base. It's one of the other misc items I have for today.

Right angel eye bulb went out so I replaced both with some inexpensive LeD replacements in both sides. As expected, the outer ring isn’t illuminated that well but I think I’ll keep them on.

Also replaced a front right rotor after getting a replacement for a defective Brembo unit from fcpeuro. The defective rotors didn’t seem to be true as there was a knocking noise when braking.

2011 35d with 157K on the odo. Today was EGR valve clean out day regardless if it was programmed or not. The X5 did the reduced power/leave you stranded routine yesterday and after a AAA ride home I checked the faults and got 40E9, 4B81, 4DED, 4C9F. It would not idle with the EGR plugged to the harness but it would disconnected.

The Mann ProVent mod was done about 15k ago and my thoughts were not having to worry until 20K to do a carbon clean out of the EGR and intake manifold. Wrong. I removed the EGR and while it was not the greasy sloppy mess as with the CCV connected to the intake it still accumulates a hard carbon to the point of reducing the diameter of the EGR valve and keeping the plunger open. Cleaned it free of carbon and until the plunger closed on its own. Mounted it on the intake and the X5 started right up. There was at least 1/3rd cup of carbon in the thing.

Washed out the Mann filter with brake cleaner and the next step is to run a can of LubroMoly diesel intake cleaner to cut down some of the carbon in the intake manifold.

Last week I replaced the aFe Pro Dry S air filter with a fresh one so I can clean the alternate one, changed the oil with Mobil 1 5W30 ESP Formula and OE filter then put 2300 miles on it over a few days. It performed flawlessly and got amazing fuel mileage.

What Lubro-Moly product do you use and how do you administer it? I am a regular user of Liqui-Moly diesel fuel additive products but I don't think these products would directly affect or act on the EGR system.

Not sure if its the same one he uses, but I use this one regularly in the fuel tank.


https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...ateway&sr=8-13


*link used just to show product*

Yes, I use that every other tank or so, the Diesel Purge and DPF Protector a couple of times between oil changes. I can't see how those products would make it reliably into the EGR system. They don't even clean the top end due to the direct injection nature of the engine.

My mistake for not including the actual product. It is not the additives it is the actual spray that goes into the intake:


https://youtu.be/vbP1_H1dzOs

Ive used the gasoline version with success. Good stuff. I should give this one a shot..

Oil changed, replaced all interior light to LED, drive belt pulley replaced.

Nice! How did you remove the back passenger lights ? I tried 3 times and i failed each time...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil change!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b0b5826402.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Active seat airbag hole fixing with chermetic! May be air pump broke because of these 3 holes in massage airbag! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a7541cf95a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Bought for 61-63e air pump on ebay! Hope to get it out need only to take off backrest part of seat!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...49267feb3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...82931312c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8728cfc13a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Can you elaborate on how you had to make the tool? I'm about to do this and want to go into it prepared for those 4 bolts, rather than get there and start having to brainstorm what to loosen, move, cut down, etc.

Cut down a TORX bit to about 1/2” in total length used with a 1/4” ratcheting combination flex head wrench.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replaced the Stabilizer Links, almost forgot how smooth this car is, all the steering wheel rattling is gone, no more knocking sounds on bumps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

One simply just fell out when we tried pulling it out, that's how bad they were.

Yesterday I put on a coat of Nu Finish. The once a year car polish. Looks great! Going to re clean the interior with the McGuire's interior cleaner.

took it out tailgating over the weekend with the 2 small trunk lights on the whole time and didn't even crank longer than usual and started right up.

let me know if you guys know if theres a way to turn off the all the lights with a switch. the front upper switch between the visors don't turn the rear trunk lights in the hatch off.

Added these to my steering wheel. I love the look and fit perfectly!!

Added what? The anticipation is killing me :dunno:

Sorry I can't post the picture. See the thread: Fixing or replacing steering wheel trim. The picture is there.

First time ever doing a decent detail job since buying in February of this year. Wash, Iron-X treatment, nanoskin mitt and then a coat of sealant. Looks pretty damn good, definitely a few spots in desperate need of deep cleaning, my driver side D pillar felt like sand paper!

Pics or it didn't happen ;)

Oh yea! It's about that time of the year, I need to do my fall waxing, and then come spring it's time for another clay bar. I might start teaching myself to detail on my drift car's paint, so I can learn there and then perfect it to correct my X5. I LOVE my black sapphire metallic, but my oh my does it show every swirl of my truck's 236k miles.

So hopefully I can learn over winter, and then totally correct and make my X5 pop again with the beautiful paint it has.

Follow up on these struts/shocks. They felt great for about 4 months, handled well, rebound and compression was liveable but could have been stiffer. Now after 7 months they are totally overwhelmed by the vehicle weight and lowered springs. Still not sure what Koni means by 'active' but they are now so sloppy they need to be replaced. Go with the Bilstein B8 and don't make the same mistake I did (btw, the B8 were not available at the time with no eta). The Koni may work fine with stock springs but lack stiffness and either change over time (active part?) or simply wear out prematurely.

Fitted FK Automotive front springs (40mm) and rear lowering links.

Next jobs are 15mm(front) / 20mm(rear) spacers and oval tailpipes. Pics to follow :thumbup:


https://i.ibb.co/kHwRRtx/IMG-2575-small.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/QpT2Hck/IMG-2574-small.jpg

Swirl flap delete, new glow plugs and module then fixed two chips that were starting to show signs of rust on my drivers door.

It was the first time doing legit two stage (color/clear) chip repair. I sanded the little chips down to bare metal then did 4 coats of color and two coats of clear so that it was up above the OEM paint. Sanded down with red scotchbrite, then 1500, then 2000 wet sand. Topped it of with Meguiars 150 and PC then some sealant. You can see where I did the correction looking straight on about 12" away but if you look down the side of the car it's smooth as glass and from 4' away you can't see it. I chalk it up as a win!

Ok this is the dummest thing I ever did, recently changed brake pads, all good until 2 days later I started having a grinding sound coming from the passenger side, started low but ended up seriously bad, the car was un-drivable. Took a test run with the guys that replaced pads, and they said it sounds like I need to replace bearings, then I started getting quotations for new bearings, chose the cheapest then drove the very same car very slow to fetch my friend so we could go buy the bearings. When I got there I see him staring at my passenger side wheel then he said, "WHY ARE YOU DRIVING THE CAR WITH ONLY 2 NUTS ON THE WHEEL?" I'm like what?? I checked and all the nuts were missing except for 2 and they were also loose! The damn guys from the Brakes Dealer forgot to tighten the nuts after changing pads. I've just replaced new ones and problem solved. Almost caused serious problem for nothing.

On 2009 X5 4.8 had the injectors deep cleaned. The result is amazing, the car is pulling much better. Feels like extra 20-30 hp. The procedure involved removing micro filters (they were so dirty and brittle at 89k), cleaning (using a gizmo from eBay and 9v battery) with brake fluid, then with seafoam, and finally with carb cleaner; installed new micro filters, new o-rings. Put everything back with a little bit of dielectric grease.

Swapped the factory white fog bulbs for some Hella Optilux yellow bulbs.

Looking forward to seeing the difference it makes in the snowy stuff.

http://i.imgur.com/oQaIITil.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6anuI1jl.jpg

New wheels
 

Hello everyone new guy on here just put on my wheels and I am excited!!
22" staggered on yokohama parada
255/35/22 front and 285/30/22 rear.
Wheels have offsets 32mm front and 42mm rear.
Added spacers 15mm all around bringing the wheels to
17mm front and 27mm rear. Should have gone wider on spacer for more aggressive stance but I'm happy. Still debating if I should lower the ride.

...was showing 3/5 bars of so I topped off with about 1/3 quart of 0w-40 castrol. This is after about 4k miles of driving in 6 months.

Before I replaced the vanos solenoids after a check engine light, I didn't top off oil at 2/5 bars. I figured the solenoid didn't get much oil in it to so it failed. Now, I make sure it's at least at 4/5 bars.

Also, upgraded the Xdelete app on my tablet to switch Xdrive back on soon before the rain/snow.

Number lights, winter tyreshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...616068e95b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e8a497a139.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eca7e961f5.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Installed new Zimmerman rotors and Akebono ceramics up front, great upgrade from whatever the PO had on there which were dusty AF. I also rotated the wheels while I was at it. Best thing I did was buy some style 18" 209's off eBay. I live in the country off of dirt and snow covered roads so having a narrow tire with more sidewall is good for me. It's my first step to get more of an mild offroad/overland usage out of this thing. Next step will be some Nitto Terra graplers and roof rack.

I use my X5 offroad at times. It does really well, actually. Theres a guy on a facebook forum with a 2" spacer lift on his, but the tire size is still limited by the front suspension design. I believe 265/60 18 is the limit for clearing, and I think you need a spacer up front to clear that.
Me? I'm stock everything, coil springs (no SLS) and on 255 50 19 Michelin Defender LTX M/S's. It's a highway light truck tire that's got decent tread blocks for some off road grab. They've been great, honestly. Pickups get 80-100k miles out of them, I'm hoping for 60-70 out of them because of the differing wear patterns of the X5.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AdSqvHLn4B963G8o6

Of course, 2 days after I beat the crap out of my car in those situations (and many more, lots of wheel lifts that I didn't want to get out of the car to take pics of) I started getting to iconic trasnfercase shuddering, and some gear whine that sounds to me like somethign either in the TC or gear whine from the front diff. I didn't do any real water crossings but did play in some puddles, and I'm wondering if my diffs took in a bit of water. I've ordered fluid for all of them, and will be doing that asap. I also ordered transfercase actuator gears, as I presume they are stripped and causing my issues. I flashed Xdelete into rwd only mode and it stopped the shuddering, but not the whine.

Just ordered up some weathertech mats for this Canadian winter.

Oil and oil filter@4k mile OCI

Engine Air filter after 10k miles

Pumped out about a quart of CHF11s fluid and replaced with new. Old fluid came out a light brown/dark green.

Also lifted the rear wheels up in he air and put it in drive to confirm Xdelete flash works.

11/17/19

Oil drain and fill with Castrol 0W-40 and BMW OE oil filter (MANN), new Hengst air filter. Reset notices.

Had my front end work completed and picking her up today. The strut pads/bushings had worn down to nothing. Got that loud squeaky sound. New struts and bushings up front.

Spent some time cleaning up the engine bay and washing the wife's diesel. We had a rat that was relieving itself on the engine cover and generally leaving the bay a mess.
Some local cats must have taken care of the problem for us as out traps did not. No sign of the rodent for a few months now so I guess he's gone. CEL has been popping up lately for SCR efficiency so I had left it on hoping for a more specific code to follow soon. Fortunately it did. 2010 X5d @ 167,634 miles on it.

1. 4D16 SCR System efficiency
2. 4BAC Reducing agent active tank fill-level sensor signal

So looks like I will be outlaying $275 to FCP to rebuild the active tank for the level sensor, heater, etc. Not too bad considering the options that were available 5 years ago: new $1300 tank or $400 crap shoot used tank.

A few other codes were present.

1. 54C6 Expired Xfer case fluid (also ordering from FCP)
2. A06B CA aerial bumper (leaving this for now)
3. 4F85 Trans EGS ratio monitoring clutch E. I'm guessing the seals have failed and I'll put in new solenoids while I'm in there as the trans has gone into limp mode twice over the last 12 months. Both times were on the highway when a sudden 2 gear drop was necessary for acceleration.

Here is a couple of shots of the engine with my little helper learning how to properly clean a set of wheels... she has some learning to do still. ;) She's 5, what are you going to do. :)

https://i.postimg.cc/0NFMThmT/Clean-Engine-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/R0NJbv31/Clean-Engine-2.jpg

Looks great! What's your go to cleaning techniques? Just elbow great and MPC or do you use any specific cleaners to cut through the grime of a diesel?

When I buy a used BMW that always needs heavy degreasing I use brake clean on metal engine parts. Follow that up with black magic engine shine on everything (sometimes 2 full cans). That's a misnomer as it doesn't shine anything. But it foams and does a wonderful job at cutting through power steering fluid, grease, etc. Then hit it with a low pressure rinse and start the engine for 15 minutes or go for a drive to dry most of the water. Then hit it with some aerospace 303 for the final look.

I've done all that before on this truck so I just took it to a wand wash and hit the bay with engine/wheel cleaner followed by spot free rinse. Then aerospace 303 at the house.

Changed D1S bulbs today, man once I started with the job and removed the first I regretted why I even started this job DIY, there's literally no space for hands to fit and the plugin cables are so short U basically can't move. U basically need to learn the inside of they bay and work blind by feeling the parts with your hand and still worry about damaging the bulb, putting back the wire clips was a bit###c too. But doing the 2nd one was much easier.

Did your bottle still have the LL-01 approval? I just got a 5qt jug from amazon that didn’t have the approval but still has Mercedes and Porsche approval.

I've done a lot over the last bit. Majorly, I retrofitted comfort seats into my X5. I also fixed my xdrive, by replacing the actuator gears, changing the fluid, and running adaptations on ista+.

Next up is to do diff fluid change, and if the whine doenst go away, I'll swap the diffs. I also have a hot side boost pipe to replace, the normal leaky red one on the m57. I also have 2 lightbars for the rear, and one for the front, and while the front bumper is off for the boost pipe and ligthbar mounting, I'll try to find the broken wiring in one of my PDC sensors.

Details ont he 275 rebuild? Are you reffering to the VW active tank fix, or will they actually do it for you now?!

changed the LED's on the cluster

https://i.imgur.com/a66NYdih.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YAdsXI0h.jpg

X5 black sticky oil
 

I replaced these!

https://youtu.be/luJDq3pTOzM

Had it towed to my parents garage after blowing the rear differential. I have the front diff disabled using xdelete.

It was wet out and it gave out accelerating up a hill. I never thought the 3.0 would break the diff even in rwd mode.

Bosch offers the exact parts for the x35d now. $275 at FCP. You can get the kit on Amazon for ~$25 cheaper but I verified with the wife that she wants to keep this truck. No more having to use the VW parts. The tank was too small on that kit, don't know if that ever caused issues to anyone who did it. I got the tank rebuilt and ready to go back in but figured while I'm most of the way there (pulled front bumper, SCR tank, SCR bracket left access to the headlight bracket and headlight) let me pull the headlights for a refinish. A real PITA but they needed it.

Today I ordered a set of Lamin X headlight PPF to protect the hours of work that went into getting this off and then refinished. It's not perfect, but it's 95% there and 1000x better than it was. Sanded with 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and finished with Meg's Plastic Polish. Sealed with 50/50 Minwax and mineral spirits.

https://i.postimg.cc/zXfW4TC4/Headlights-01.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SxBMX5Bp/Headlights-02.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XJ3BL5NH/Headlights-05.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/hP3xnhMv/Headlights-03.jpg

I'm debating whether to refinish my headlights, buy new and/or track down an amber corner set along with amber taillights. Not even sure they make amber versions.

For the E70 you can just buy new lenses for ~$100. I will do that if these don't stay the way they are. At least they offer affordable lenses. The lenses for the E53 are $400+. :wow:

Mine didn't die completely but when I would rev up to higher RPM while driving my rear diff would whine. Was debating to sell my X5 3.5 as it was now at 200K kms but said i'll replace it and fix some other issues while under it.

Found a used one rear diff with 40K kms on it ($600 canadian) and replaced my rear diff , replaced rear driver side CV shaft ($200 canadian from RockAuto as was leaking grease on boot so whole thing to be replaced) and then I replaced the oil gasket pan ($50).

The oil gasket pan was the hardest of all 3 as everything in the front had to come down to replace it ie. front diff, sub frame, cv shafts etc.

Hopefully no more major repairs for a bit , now sitting at 206K kms.

Just prepaid about $400 for a used diff with 82k miles.

Sent you A PM ^ there isn’t much info on how to remove the rear differential.

ouuuchhh. Sorry to hear that! Mine's started to whine I believe. You have the normal gas i6?!

Yes, n52 I believe. Though, I had xdelete on so almost all power to rear wheels only.

Have you drained the fluid recently?

Quesion- what had to be removed to get the front diff removed? I'm considering swapping ratios if I need to do a new rear diff, so that would require me putting a different front in too.

Mind posting here about teh rear diff experience? I don't really see any DIY's, but I kind of assumed it would be unbolt CV's, driveshaft, and mounts. Then lower it down.

I've got the fluyid, I'm just looking for the time. I'm doing front and rear fluid, and if within 1000 miles it doesnt quiet down, I think I'll starting looking for differentials.

As far as power through the rear, I recentlydrove about 2k miles in rwd, and I'm a deleted and tuned diesel. There are a few diesel guys who use RWD mode for all of their driving. I'm in stock mode for the snowy season but I'm considering just staying stock for snow storms and going to the "snow" rwd biased mode for normal days. I spun the wheels all the dang time in full rwd mode, but I'm on 255 wide light truck tires. in it for the mpg's and low noise levels.

Ah I see. Must’ve been the 175k mile wear on the likely, 13yo diff.

For anyone else that needs more context on how to disconnect the driveshaft from the diff: https://youtu.be/sL2XEKPc3Pk

Just about the same- I was told that this 90k mile diff was put in the car at around 185k. That would make this unit have right around 150kish miles, which seems to be high time for it to start to fail.

Not the end of the world, as e70 diffs are plentiful. I believe that even if I switch h to the 50i diffs, they're plentiful enough that I'll be fine finding them for years to come. Though, I might make the 60k trans service interval an "All fluids" service...

The whine is what lead me to my rear diff.

Confirmed it by putting on the truck on the lift and disabling DSC/xdrive and friend gassing it to 60 km/h while I sat under to the side and can hear the rear diff making the noise.

After I changed it I opened up the rear diff but didnt see anything broken, maybe I can rebuild it ?

These things should last the entire life of the truck , not good so many people having issues. Also I never changed the fluid ever for it if that makes any difference.

Rear diff wanted to hard to do with the lift and a second pair of hands.
The DYI at https://xoutpost.com/1124547-post13.html is pretty close to how I did it. I dont remember disconnecting the parking break as it stated, and we took down the exhaust as we were doing lots of work under it but maybe you dont for just the rear diff.

Removing the rear CV shafts were tricky and we had a special tool to get them out of the diff.

The front was more trickier as you need to get the front cv shaft out and slide it out the diff, get steering rack out of the way, lower sub frame. Again this is what I remember but I dont know if all that needs to come down for just the differential as we had to get to the oil gasket pan to replace so everything needed to come down and out.

Rear much easier than the front.

I thought the lenses were not removable/replaceable. Learn something new here frequently.

They aren't easily replaceable... but they are, replaceable.

Picked this up a couple hours away at a euro junkyard.

https://imgur.com/NSQhmv0

https://imgur.com/NSQhmv0

I took apart my rear differential and everything looks fine except some small indents on the one bearing housing i've attached. I'm going to see if I can find a replaced bearing with the numbers off of this and see if I can rebuild this thing and keep as spare.

Goodluck with your swap out, PM me if ya have any questions.

Picked it up with a used(82k miles) differential installed. Labor was $510 if anyone was wondering.

Threw on the winter 18” wheels with blizzaks and added about 1/3 qt of oil. Top your oil off and keep vanos happy.

Didn’t see anything online about upgrading the differentials on the e70.

Nothing really on upgrading. One guy that claims to have swapped to a super short rear end, forget what ration but I believe a 4.44 or something from on old model. Never came through on the details he said he would post, just mentioned it once iirc. I’ll try to swap mine to the taller ratio if(when) I need to replace one. Secretly hoping mine stops whining after the fluid change but haven’t had a spare moment to do it. I’m hoping to do the fluids Saturday after Christmas, and we’ll see if they quiet down. Money is a tiny bit tight at the moment, so I’m trying to only spend the money the x5 needs.

I do still have to mount and wire my dadhcam, all 3 lightbars, and I just ordered a $306 front brake kit from FCP.

I also bought nokian hakkapelita r3 SUV’s, and those are now mounted on my winter wheels. Also got new tie rods put on and an alignment. The $100 of labor for the tie rod install became worth it as soon as the torches and angle grinders came out to get the siezed old ones off. Money well spent! I also ordered push rivets so that I can remove the front bumper, remove the active DEF tank, and fix whatever wiring is bad in my front right pdc sensor, it throws the annoying error which block the camera, which is SUPER annoying.

Cleaned the headlight lenses a bit with the 3m 39008 kit from amazon. Turned out ok for $20 - I can actually see the HID light beam cutoff now.

I picked up my 35d on 12/13. First thing first...bye bye run flats, hello DWS06!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/cYTkOs.jpg

^Nice choice. Been running them on the wife's diesel since very shortly after purchase. Been great tires.

I ran these on my previous E70 50i and had to go back!

Now on to todays progress...

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/iI3csw.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/owXAnP.jpg

What . . . what are . . . is that???

Never seen air filters that bad. Wow.


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

N63 X5 5.0iX Not ‘today’ (2weeks ago) but replaced lower and upper radiator hoses, aux cooling sensor in lower hose, water pump and coolant reservoir

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7980132167.jpg

Fabricated a ‘skinny’ tool so I didnt have to remove the harmonic balancer
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...55dc37bf95.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8779f83040.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4a2c6f24c4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cbd53e27c3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...99b742ab10.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...30765852d6.jpg

O-ring flattened causing coolant leak
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8bf9013f1e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...47e8fbd70c.jpg

Replaced hood struts because they mysteriously failed while working on the pump
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0342b2d417.jpg

Cleared out my belongings from the now totaled X5 (L661489). Before Xmas my son was driving the x5 and this lady did an abrupt stop 200ft before a green traffic light. My son tried to brake and swerve out of the way but still made contact the older truck's bumper caught the X5 below the front driver's headlamp and tweaked the entire front frame leading to 9500+ worth of damage. Insurance totaled the X5 and cut me a check for the residual. The other party got $219 from our insurance.



All in all it was a good performer. It lived to 158K miles. Thermostat/water pump replaced at 75k, trans filter/fluid at 80K, egr cooler at 95K, glow plugs/controller at 110K, 2nd battery at 157K, was getting ready to do all of the boost solenoids, vacuum lines, and crank damper before the accident.


No hints of NOx sensor failure, DPF was still within limits and it had a flaky off and on DEF canister sensor failure when the DEF fluid ran low.



A 2012 X5 (L671470) with 72K miles is on its way to replace.

Very nice. Being that the entire dash and lights are amber/red, did you get used to the white? was it easy to swap the bulbs? LED or Halogen?

Took it out for breakfast after leaving it parked for a few days and SEL came on right after startup.

P0420 and P0430


Cleared them out for now...

Last weekend I froze my butt of changing her oil/filter, Cabin Air Filters and a couple of other misc things...

So of course it is supposed to be 65 degrees here this weekend :dunno:

Replaced Tstat yesterday. Dug around today to find the courtesy light in the drivers door was lost inside the door. Worked fine, etc, just there instead of in the door handle.. Go figure.Have owned the car for about 3 months. First thing was oil change, cabin air filters. a month ago was the EGR cooler due to broken spring issue. Still have a long list of items to work on/do.

Two things on my 4.8 - 1) I fixed an exhaust rattle. The tip is a two piece design and mine developed a really annoying rattle that was fixed with a quick tack weld. 2) I replaced the heater valve and finally have heat on the passenger side! It wasn't as bad of a job as I thought it would be.

Changed the oil yesterday. Mobil1 European formula 0-40W. Couldn't find the Mann filter I ordered a couple of weeks back, so had to pop out to autozone for a Wix extended life filter. Fit was good and appeared to be the best of the four brands they stocked - came from Poland rather than China.

Also, used my new Foxwell NT530 to clear a vehicle check service flag.

This passed friday I did another oil change, as it had been 8k miles already. I also drained and filled the front diff. I've done 2 or 3 hundred miles since, and the diff noise hasnt changed. I have everything to do the rear diff fluid, so I'm planning on doing that on wednesday I believe. Curious if the diff whine goes away. Sprig time I do plan on swapping diffs regardless.

Are you using BMW 75w-85 for the front diff?

Liquimoly 75w90. It was close, and is what FCP was suggesting. Not too worried about the minimal difference
Using the same for the impending rear diff fluid, and the transfer case I used BMW fluid in, like a good little bmw owner.

Lowered the X5d with B8 shocks & Eibach springs up front and B4 in rear
https://i.imgur.com/KpNxawRh.png
https://i.imgur.com/xDrWLYNh.png
https://i.imgur.com/YJZBFYxh.png
https://i.imgur.com/9KmicwSh.jpg

Thanks for the pics. I like the Eibach look.

Ditto, but even more interested in the ride/handling report..

I was away on a trip so I haven't driven the x5 much. I finally got around to lowering the rear with ISTA and I still have to dial in the rear ride height. Initial thoughts are the ride is tighter with less body roll but you feel the bumps a little more.