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  #1  
Old 09-08-2008, 04:50 PM
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detailing questions

I have a Porter Cable 7424 Randob Oribital Buffer and some foam pads. My X is black and has swirl marks. What is reccomended to use to remove them? This is what I was thinking:

1) Wash Vehicle
2) Clay bar
3) Buff out swirls with rubbing compound
4) Apply wax and buff


Also what do you guys use to clean your wheels? I have just been washing them with soap and water and then cleaning off any water spots by hand with glass cleaner.
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2008, 05:12 PM
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hey WE350Z, you might want to check out the detailing section of this forum and you will find some answers.

Just like this one click here
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:34 PM
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Oooh. Now you're talking my language. Your steps are generally correct, depending on the type of rubbing compound you're using. Most detailers who are worth anything prefer to use a pure polish to finish out the compound between steps 3 and 4. A pure polish is designed to remove micro-marring left behind by most polishing compounds, and to give the paint a deeper, wetter look before sealing it in with wax. However, I have recently discovered a product from the Meguiars professional line called M105 that does not appear to require a polishing step. I went to a detailing class, and after watching it in action with a Porter Cable DA, I was blown away by how well it finishes out. The instructor even said, "Meguiars officially recommends using a pure polish after applying M105, but I personally skip the polish and go right to wax." You can only get M105 from an auto paint body and equipment store, or directly from their website. If you want to get really anal about detailing, check out www.meguiarsonline.com and browse their How To and Hot Topics section. You could spend a lifetime perfecting your technique, and apply it to the product line that you prefer (not necessarily Meg's). I recently started using the 2-bucket method (use a dedicated rinse bucket for the wash mitts) and got a grit guard to catch sediment that could instill swirl marks.

As for the wheels, I use the old car wash soap bucket to clean them. I use a dedicated set of mitts for the wheels of course. I have painted wheels with fat spokes, so they are much easier to maintain than polished wheels, if that's what you're working with.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:07 PM
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Cool. I just have some turtle wax rubbing compound laying around. Is that crap? Does it require pure polish? Should I just get the M105? Where can I get it? I have Mequiars quick detail mist for clay bar'ing, and Meguiars caranuba wax as well as Zymol wax.

My buddy SWEARS by Meguiars NXT wax i might pick some of that up.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:04 PM
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I can't vouch for the turtle wax rubbing compound as I have never personally used it. Anecdotally, I have had conversations with some casual users who liked it, and have read threads from others who didn't like it at all. FWIW, I've never heard from anyone who raved about it. In the detailing world, you will get strong opinions on all kinds of products. "Zaino is the best." "No, Zaino sucks, 3M is the best." "No, Zymol works better..." I am a firm believer in the philosophy, "Find something you like and use it often." I can personally vouch for the M105, as I have used it myself. My only complaint is that it's expensive (~$30/qt!!), and only comes in a quart sized bottle, as it is intended for production oriented body shops and detailers, rather than the avg. consumer like you and me. It's also a pain to acquire because it is not as easy as dropping by your local Pep Boys. I wish they made a 16 oz bottle and sold it for $6 bucks at Walmart, but oh well. This is the way they chose to market the product. You can get it at a local auto paint supply store that carries the Meguiars professional line of products, OR order it online at meguiars.com.

Keep in mind, fine swirl marks and cobwebbing can be hidden (filled in) by a wax, so the application of a polishing compound that doesn't finish well, immediately followed by a wax application, can get a "thumbs up" to most observers. But once the wax wears off, the swirl marks and cobwebs mysteriously come back into view. So take everyone's advice with a grain of salt. Including mine

Try your turtle compound on a test spot in an inconspicuous area. Shine a bright light over the area and look for swirl marks/cobwebs/holograms. How does it look in the sun? If it looks good to you, by all means continue with the rest of the car. But be aware that some compounds may include some carnauba wax mixed in, which is designed to hide/fill in the swirl marks left behind by the product. This is expecially true among consumer line products that are designed to be easy, one-step wonders. Observe the finish after several washes. Are the swirl marks back again? As I said, if you like the results, use it. But don't be afraid to try something that may work better. You are the ultimate judge.

I have also used the Meg's quick detail mist and clay bar kit with great results. But it is my opinion that clay bars and quick mist products are something that most other brands couldn't screw up either. I have used the Mother's clay and mist too. Both products yield similar results.

As for Meg's NXT tech wax, this is their newest wax product, and they are pushing it heavily. The difference with this wax is that it is fully synthetic. Traditional "carnauba" comes from a tree. NXT tech wax is all man made. I suppose that's why it's so expensive, like the difference between conventional dino oil vs. synthetic oil. I have tried the NXT tech wax, side by side with their Gold Class wax and noticed no appreciable difference. The Gold Class was much cheaper at Walmart so I personally could not justify the additional cost for the NXT.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:50 PM
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yea actaully the claybar kit i have is mothers but low on the detail mist it came with so i got mequiars detailing mist.

I think I'll try the turtle wax compound and follow it up with the zymol.

I need some 6" washable terry cloth bonnets and I should be ready to rock with the buffer.
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:18 AM
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If you are using Porter Cable than try Menzerna PO85RD and you will be impressed with the results. It will be your new friend. Menzerna works great with PC. Follow that with Menzerna FMJ or Einzett glanz wax. Check any of Phil's detailing threads and he lists the products used in each of his detail job threads.
Search for "Zaino routine" if you want to go the Zaino way.

http://www.xoutpost.com/detailing-for...duragloss.html

http://www.xoutpost.com/detailing-for...uff-rocks.html
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:11 AM
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i just finished clay - man thats kind of a bitch. much more area to cover than on my z. already is looking much better. nice and glossy with mirror shine. pity my hood has so many rock chips.

is there a limit to how often one should clay and how many uses should you do max on a bar?

ok i am just gonna try the turtle wax compound and i got some turtle wax polish too.

dumb question - should you apply everything by hand and buff it off with the buffer or apply with the buffer too? does it matter? i have a terry cloth bonnet and a wool bonnet along with some hand microfibre applicator pads. whicgh is useed for what?
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Last edited by we350z; 09-10-2008 at 04:21 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-10-2008, 06:41 PM
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The next time you clay it'll be easier since you're just maintaining. Claying does not hurt the finish, provided the surface is washed clean first, and your clay is not filled with contaminants that would abrade the surface. So clay as often as you like. But be aware that clay also works to remove your protective wax layer. So think about how much work it truly is before you decide to clay AND wax that big truck after every meal As for the life of the bar, it's going to depend on how bad your cars are, but you should throw it away when you notice that the bar no longer turns to the original color after you knead it. Or if you see little pieces of crap embedded in it, or drop the bar on the ground. My philosophy is, when in doubt, change the bar. Better than working out all the scratches later.

4 fingers on a little hand applicator pad are not as effective as a foam pad on your PC 7424. Not only does it take longer by hand, the PC provides more even pressure, and a better dual-action motion across the surface. You will have to do the tight areas by hand obviously. I have always used foam pads to apply product, and only use terry and MF bonnets to remove product. I have found that wool has been too abrasive for my tastes (instills swirl marks) and no longer use them. They have their place, but the cutting power is more than I need for what I am working with. I have simplified my life by using only foam pads to apply, and MF towels to remove. A separate foam pad to apply each type of product (compound, polish, wax), and MF towels to remove.

I can't stress this enough: Try your technique and your products on a test spot first. If you end up not liking the product or the technique, at least you don't have to re-do the whole car.
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:48 PM
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ok so i need some more foam pads then cuz all i have is the stock one that came with the buffer. do you need more than one terry bonnet to remove a single product?

So you remove with mf towels? I thought this was the main point of the buffer and how it removes swirls and stuff was to use it to buff off the product??
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