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#181
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Ahhhhh a vacation would be nice right about now.It's a big project - I think the X6 will be apart two days - have to take front bumper off, maybe the fenders, we'll see..... Thank you Tony for uploading those pictures - really appreciate it! Chris |
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#182
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for your Beast .Also you do not have to take the bumper off,its not as bad as it seems. Giodlucj on the project Chris. |
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#183
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Well, 10 hours later, I dived into this project today and let me tell you....this retrofit is NOT for the weak minded.
You WILL take your car apart...a lot. You need to be organized and remember where everything goes. You also need the proper tools on hand - torx bits, reverse torx bits, a rivet gun to install rivets, lots of sockets and extensions, etc. A couple of tips while I still remember them: a) To get access to the passenger side fusebox in order to install the two yellow/red wires, you NEED to release the connector from the fuse block. It's a hassle because it is UP there and tough to get your fingers on. Take some time and once you get it out the wires will clip right in to the connector without issue. b) Follow 330ZHPs directions on routing the passenger side headlight wiring via the DME box. You will need to remove the air filters on the passenger side as he noted, and also remove the associated filter frame attached to the firewall with two spring loaded clips (330ZHP supplied pictures). Once you do that, you will then need to unbolt the DME frame via 5 reverse torx bolts. YES YOU WILL NEED A REVERSE TORX socket set! After you loosen and remove the bolts, you will clearly see the access way to route the wire. From there I used a dremel to cut a pathway for the wire so everything would still be sealed but easily run. c) Drivers side firewall grommet was a complete pain in the ass. I finally got the wiring through after messing with it for over an hour. The wiring for the FRM module was easy with no issues - to install the pins into the sockets YOU MUST REMOVE THE CONNECTOR HOUSING which is held on by two tabs on the top side of the connector (You'll see them). Lift the tabs up with a flat blade screwdriver and slide them off, insert pins, slide back on. d) Each headlight must have pins added/removed. Make sure you take the connector apart to do this - the exterior housing of the connector MUST be removed in order to put the pins in - the connector is held in by 4 tabs which you will see on the back of the connector. Lift each tab and the connector should start to pop out of the exterior housing. e) FYI, installing each headlight assembly required removing the bottom LED computer module from each headlight - I then installed the headlight and reassembled the module back to the headlight. The biggest challenge in this project is running all the wiring and not screwing anything up - you have to pay careful attention to what you are doing and YOU CAN'T BREAK ANYTHING. One false move - for example you break a pin - and you can be in a difficult situation. I'll post some pictures once done...looking forward to putting the poor X6 all back together - rivet gun is on order! |
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#184
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I agree with Chris. This mod is not for the weak minded, however, I was able to find a better/quicker way around a few things. One quicker way to the passenger side access... Once I had all the filters and airbox removed, I started looking for ways around removing the DME box, then I discovered another route for wiring through the grommet (just like the drivers side).... forget removing anything under the hood on the passenger side, all you need to do can be accomplished inside the fender well. There is a thick rubberized access panel underneath the fender liner that is held in place by 4-8mm bolts. Remove this panel and you will be able to see the factory wiring harness grommet underneath the DME Box.... The grommet is still a pain in the ass just like the driver's side, but at least you don't have to deal with removing everything under the hood!
I was also able to maneuver the LED headlight into place without removing LED computer module, however it was extremely tight; it may have made it a little easier having the module out of the way. I left one stinkin' bolt out and now I remember where it goes: behind the fender well that has already been riveted back together.....arrrrrrghh!!!!!
__________________
2010 X5M Active Autowerks tune 22" BBS SV in Titanium Gunmetal Black grills
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#185
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I completely agree with you Gixxerboy - it's raining here today and I am still waiting to get the passenger side done - the wiring is just sitting in the engine bay
Oh well, tomorrow will be the day.Yeah, I was SUPER careful with the headlights as I sure as heck was not going to scratch the lights up. In fact I taped the lenses with blue painters tape so that I wouldn't scratch them during installation. I think BMW did this funky method of installing/removing the lights due to theft issues they had dealt with on previous models, but man, what a PAIN IN THE ASS. haha. I made a quick video about the process, which isn't the most organized but will help people who want to do this in the future. I'll post it up shortly. Chris |
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#186
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This is really gonna help me out in 2 weeks.. Thanks for all the updates everyone!
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#187
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#188
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OK my video is up....thoughts/feedback appreciated.
https://youtu.be/nR01LeNTnRk UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE ON VIDEO: a) BMW DEALER WILL NOT BE ABLE TO PROGRAM/CODE LED LIGHTS. Find a shop that has the Autologic scan tool or order a programming cable and have a coder do it remotely. b) UNLESS YOU HAVE A 2013-2014 X5M/X6, YOU MUST UPDATE YOUR FRM3 MODULE....NO IFS AND OR BUTS We are saving you time, trust us!Chris Last edited by Chris F.; 08-28-2015 at 12:42 PM. |
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#189
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Great job with the video!
__________________
2010 X5M Active Autowerks tune 22" BBS SV in Titanium Gunmetal Black grills
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#190
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Thanks! Hope it helps someone down the road...
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