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#21
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While messing around in the garage this weekend tho, I really started paying attention to the way her car runs and idles. At idle it has a slight miss, not obvious but its not idling smooth. I had a lot of free time this weekend to do nothing and that's good and bad. So I spent hours again looking for information on these intermediate levers. I was trying to figure out why there is so many different sets? I'm sure it has to due with clearances and fitment tolerances. But whats the difference? Is #1 shorter than #2 and so on? For example if mine are #2's and I have wear on my eccentric shafts and cams can I use #3 levers to help with tolerance wear? (yes I know if I have wear i should replace them, this is all hypothetical) I know BMW stuff is top secret but grief. It would seem that with repair bills for this stuff running into the 3-7K range there would be more info on this. I thought boats were expensive till I bought a BMW. haha One more thing, I tried unhooking the vanos solenoids to see if that would help ( I've read this might help) and it didn't change much with the idle and made the motor sound like crap. So this made me lean even more on the levers/shafts. My theory is the levers or shafts are unevenly warn so its letting my valves open and close unevenly giving me a slight rough idle. When I unhooked the vanos I noticed I had a ton of vacuum under the oil cap. I didn't check the vacuum again once I hooked everything back up. ( ran out of time). So tonight I'm going to take the CCV caps off and clean and check them. Im going to check vacuum before and after the clean to see if something changes. |
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#22
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Chiming in for some tips concerning the intermediate levers.
They are not hard to replace, if one has the AGA valve stem tool. However, if changing the intermediate levers, I would suggest to change out the "roller drag lever" associated with them as well. The TIS is very specific concerning the p/n for those, even they seem the same, they are not. They have the last digit of the p/n different and corresponds to that tolerance for that specific cylinder. They are matched with the drag rollers, which have also a different end number. If one changes the intermediate lever, but keeps in place the old drag roller, there will be a different tolerance which could screw up the opening/closing of the hydraulic lifters. Bottom line, when ordering the parts, make 100% sure you mark them for each cylinder (they are 2/cylinder: a pair for the intake - the exhaust have only the drag rollers 2 /cylinder also marked for tolerance). Then take the whole p/n stamped on these parts together with a suffix if stamped. These parts will be ordered directly from Germany AFAIK, and they are not readily stocked at the dealers due to the different tolerances of these parts. 0.02
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Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
#23
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Wait, you had me at " needing the AGA valve stem tool"
So I need this tool to change the levers? And now your also saying one should change the drag rollers to? Grief... Thanks for the input. I was wondering about all the tolerances of everything working together. I don't mind tearing into an engine to fix things. I mind when the parts are worth more than gold tho!! Wow, I think its time to sell this money pit and buy a M54 3.0 version. lol |
#24
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Quote:
if you pull the engine, you won't need the AGA tool, but it will take longer, and more work is involved. Plus you will need timing tools. Pick your poison.
__________________
Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
#25
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Ok, I've gotten confused. From what I've read, watched and people I have talked to. Just changing the intermediate levers is pretty simple and don't involve removing much more than the VC and maybe the eccentric shafts.
Your saying (from experience Im guessing) that a lot more needs to be removed to just change the levers? My valve stem seals are fine and I don't have any smoke. I just looked up the drag rollers you spoke about. So what part wears in them? The roller that contacts the lever? Or the tip that contacts the valve stem? I didnt plan on pulling the motor. My vehicle build date 12/2004 falls right into the SIB for the levers. So I was hoping to pull it apart take out the lever and order new ones, but now your comments have thrown a wrench into my plan. So I'm just looking for more info on all of this. |
#26
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Just source the TIS for the job. I have it in the GT1, and I'm not home now.
I am not sure how you would remove the intermediate levers with the springs of the valve stems pressing on the drag rollers? I f you can, then just go ahead. You can look at some of the pics in this thread. PS: don't remove the eccentric shafts - you will be in for a timing job.
__________________
Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
#27
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So I'm guessing removing the Cams and using the Cam timing tool is crazy to?
There just isnt any good videos or pics on how to do this. I'm really leaning toward selling it now. I dont want to put another 2K into this vehicle. I'd rather spend that on trading for one without issues. |
#28
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OK I'm out here working on this thing and I checked under the oil cap while its running and it has strong vacuum pulling on the cap. I didnt take it off all the way. I just lifted it till the engine stumbled then put it back down.. I pulled off the CCC caps and the diaphragms are new and clean. So I checked everything good and put them back. Started it again and its the same. Should I have that much vacuum at idle on the 4.4? Or is there something else I should check.
Just trying to single everything out one thing at a time. |
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