JUST got $3,300 estimate from an Indy!!!

[jdstrickland]

Originally Posted by GamecocksE53

I'm starting to think/hope so. A lot less freaked compared to earlier today.

In regards to the pulleys and tensioners - will the mechanic be able to tell if they need replaced, or is that something I can do easily?

Both, he can tell and you can do it. It's a bit of a pain on the E46 because space is tight, but basically you remove the fan shroud and the fan (and you can accomplish the task without taking these out, but you get lots more room), and release the tension on the belt and slip it off of the pulleys. The tensioner pulley is unscrewed -- T50 bolt, I think -- and the idler pulley has a regular bolt that is 14 or 15 mm. The AC belt and tensioner are removed the same way. When you put the new main belt on, it takes a strange route but there are lots of routing diagrams out there to follow. The easy rule is that the flat side of the belt rides on the smooth pulleys, and the inside of the belt rides on the ribbed pulleys.

Use a T50 on a 3/8 or 1/2 inch breaker bar to push the idler pulley down so the belt is loose so that you can fit it over the other pulleys. The nut on the center of the fan is a 32mm, and is reverse threaded. DO NOT MAKE IT TIGHT when you put the fan back on, the rotation of the engine makes the nut tight, it will not spin off. There is a torque spec for the reverse-thread on the fan nut, but the spec is very low. I just looked it up, it calls for 29 ft-lb, but as a practical matter, it does not need to be that tight. You will want to be able to get it off again someday.

[bcredliner]

Unless a pulley or tensioner is making noise or has some wobble when it is turning the only sure evaluation is when the belt is removed to see how quiet, easily and smooth it spins. If the engine sounds normal, no unusual sounds, it is quite likely the pulleys and tensioners are fine.

If you can get a flashlight beam to view the inside of the belts you should be able to see any cracks. The only negative to not purchasing all that stuff prior to starting the job is you may have to wait a few for a part or pay more than you would have by not being able to shop. That is, if you depend on the vehicle for daily transportation.

The upside if you replace everything is peace of mind and it is highly unlikely you will be have to do the same teardown for a long time because you replaced everything..

Sometimes I replace other stuff while I have it apart, sometimes I don't--judgment call. Can't fault doing it all but since you are trying to limit cost you don't have to feel like you are doing something foolish or flat wrong if you don't.

[jsoto]

JD -

I had my gasket replaced....kinda surprised since it was a metal gasket, but it did leak on my V8 around 110K last year.

[jdstrickland]

If you can spin the idler and tension pulleys, and they keep going freely, they need to be replaced. They should be baby-butt smooth, and hard to turn -- as in, tight. They should not spin freely.

[squidzilla]

I would run some high mileage oil to see if it slows the leaks some. I do that with my n62 545i and my VCG has slowed quite a bit.Barely noticeable now.
Or if you want to use your existing oil I would dump some atp stop leak or Liqui Moly oil saver. Power steering fluid is cheap and you can always top it off until you are in a position to do it yourself or pay.

[GamecocksE53]

Originally Posted by squidzilla

I would run some high mileage oil to see if it slows the leaks some. I do that with my n62 545i and my VCG has slowed quite a bit.Barely noticeable now.
Or if you want to use your existing oil I would dump some atp stop leak or Liqui Moly oil saver. Power steering fluid is cheap and you can always top it off until you are in a position to do it yourself or pay.

mmmmm that is a good idea. I was planning on changing the oil and attempting to check the pulleys this weekend. I typically use Mobile 1 full synthetic. I will try high mileage this go around.

About the Stop Leak stuff. Is that not a gimmick? I get scared to use it has anyone had any success?

[squidzilla]

Originally Posted by GamecocksE53

mmmmm that is a good idea. I was planning on changing the oil and attempting to check the pulleys this weekend. I typically use Mobile 1 full synthetic. I will try high mileage this go around.

About the Stop Leak stuff. Is that not a gimmick? I get scared to use it has anyone had any success?

I have read lots of good things on bobistheoilguy. I dumped some in my auto x5 this week. I don't drive it much so it will take while to see if It works. I understand it is the same additive that you get in high mileage oil. If you are concerned just run high mileage oil and give it a couple thousand miles. I am seriously shocked my n62 545i slowed as much as it did.

I read a post from someone that owns an e36 3 series and has ran high mileage oil since 50k miles. It now has over 200k miles and has never had a single leak of any kind.

[GamecocksE53]

Originally Posted by squidzilla

I have read lots of good things on bobistheoilguy. I dumped some in my auto x5 this week. I don't drive it much so it will take while to see if It works. I understand it is the same additive that you get in high mileage oil. If you are concerned just run high mileage oil and give it a couple thousand miles. I am seriously shocked my n62 545i slowed as much as it did.

I read a post from someone that owns an e36 3 series and has ran high mileage oil since 50k miles. It now has over 200k miles and has never had a single leak of any kind.

Ordered the high milage oil, air filter, oil filter and additive today off of amazon. I got it all for like $50!! I was shocked. Prime delivery, will be here on Saturday. I love Amazon prime!

[GamecocksE53]

Originally Posted by trader4

If you're going to check the pulleys, then you should have the new
belt in hand. You have to take the old one off to check them. I saw
someone saying something to the effect that they should not be
easy to turn. I think that depends on your definition of easy.
They shouldn't spin so easily that they go for many revolutions if
you try to spin them by hand and then let go. A brand new one
will have more resistance than one that has miles on it and won't
spin much at all. You want to check the
side to side movement, ie try to wobble it. There should be no
movement. IMO that is more important than how freely it spins.

BTW, make that belts. There is the main accessory belt and then
one for the AC. It wasn't specified in your work order whether the
belt kit included the AC belt and tensioner/pulley. As I said previously,
I would not replace the tensioner assemblies, you can buy just the
pulleys for a lot less.

Thanks for the advice, correct me if I am wrong. You are saying buy both new belts and new pulleys separately and DO NOT buy the tensioners?

I was honestly probably going to just buy this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0046p

I looked up a couple DIYs...I am pretty confident I can do this myself

[jdstrickland]

Originally Posted by GamecocksE53

Thanks for the advice, correct me if I am wrong. You are saying buy both new belts and new pulleys separately and DO NOT buy the tensioners?

I was honestly probably going to just buy this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-kit-adk0046p

I looked up a couple DIYs...I am pretty confident I can do this myself

You need Items 1, 6, and 15 on the main belt, from here -- RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i Belt Drive Water Pump/Alternator.

Back out to BELT DRIVE and look at the next picture down for the AC System belt and pulley.

You can get the parts elsewhere, these diagrams give the factory parts information. You should bookmark the page, Welcome to realoem.com |bmw parts | bmw parts catalog| bmw epc! or Penske Parts - Parts Catalog for BMW & Mini, these give you the parts description of every part on your car.