Calling alignment experts

[bcredliner]

I think it is important when recommending alignment specs outside of any factory specs to include that doing so impacts handling. These recommended specs will reduce turn-in and increase understeer. Certainly the changes will be more apparent in aggressive driving but those compromises are present at all speeds and the X5 has plenty of understeer when aligned within factory specs.

Since the introduction of the E53 that have been many advancements in tires. IMO, if you are a conservative driver, a better route to reduce tire wear are tires that have a higher mileage rating. They will be harder and will also compromise handling but they should not change the front to rear balance.

This is coming from one that is all about performance and from day one has had very aggressive alignment specs. I'm not saying-- how to make the tires last longer specs is a recipe for disaster. I will say that I would not be comfortable with these specs on DFW freeways.

Can someone explain why anyone buys any vehicle, especially a BMW, and then dials back any of the performance?

[g300d]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Front toe looks fine but why could he not get the LF caster in spec, as well as the front camber? Even if you are lowered, he should try to get both sides even in the front.

Front caster is not adjustable.

Front camber is not supposed to be adjustable but you can tweak it a little bit at the top shock mount.

Either of these out of spec is usually a worn/defected bushing that has to be replaced.

[B-M-W]

Does this shop have any software to reset the steering sensor?

Care to post the shop? I need an alignment. 40 bucks is a steal!

[4.8isX5]

Bcred - At least in my X when it was fully stock and how it is now, the thing always has understeer if your really ripping it up... Only time i got rid of that a bit is when i ran it in rwd only mode.

@blackbeast For your alignment specs you should have had the camber dialed in as close as possible (sometimes it is still alot depending on how worn rear arms/bushings are and how low)

You are correct in wanting the zeroed out toe, thats how i had mine done and I only go places where the guy will listen to the settings I want. Mine was zeroed out almost both sides, and I think last alignment i had -2.5 camber as close as he could bring it in..


Havent had any abnormal wear issues or handling (i run the car hard). The mileage i had when i put on my rear delinte d8 tires brand new was around 74k. I am now at 107k and the tires are at 2/32 maybe slightly less will be changing soon enough.

I was still getting slow camber wear that adds up eventually on the insides of the tires, however when i bought my new wheels (they are directional tires) so i had them flip mounted around meaning fresh depth on the inside edge again. Using that method i got out 32.5-33k out of these tires at low height, aggressive braking/driving/turning. Cant complain.

[Roman D]

Originally Posted by cn90

I do my own alignment at home.

Alignment is a straightforward business if one knows what he is doing.
No matter what car you drive, the vehicle should have all 4 wheels running in parallel. It is a simple fact but many alignment shops can't seem to master it.

In virtually all vehicles, whether it is Honda, Toyota, Volvo or BMW:
- FRONT total toe is either neutral (0 degrees) or a tiny tiny bit toe-in.
- This is b/c when the car is aligned, it is stationary. But once the vehicle rolls on the highway, the force of propulsion pushes the chassis forward and will a create a tiny bit of "toe out". So setting the car with a tiny bit of "toe in" in the shop will create a neutral condition during rolling.

- Most BMWs have Rear negative camber to allow for aggressive cornering. But this will cause excessive INNER tire wear (for the REAR tires). I usually reduce the Rear Camber to as little as allowed, using the eccentric bolts. I posted info on bimmerfest E39 forum.

PS: O.P., your car now has toe-out for both axles.

Not exactly... Not exactly a straight forward business...
If you have RWD vehicle, front wheels should be diled slightly inwards as resistance of the road pushes them outwards.
If you have FWD, front wheels should diled slightly outwards as forces from drive axcels pulling them inwards.
We're talking about miserable numbed of degrees but I believe that if something is specified to be such and such, it should be followed.

[bcredliner]

You are absolutely right, I'm always screwing up understeer and oversteer. I corrected it in my post. I should stick to tight and loose, those terms I don't confuse.

[blackbeast]

Originally Posted by B-M-W

Does this shop have any software to reset the steering sensor?

Care to post the shop? I need an alignment. 40 bucks is a steal!

Of course, Alignment World, 1134 SE 82nd. Beware though, they're first come first serve. I got lucky when I arrived and he took me right in but by the time I left there was 3-4 waiting in line, I got the impression they stay pretty busy