X5 4.6is 5HP24 External Transmission Cooler - My Solution

[SlickGT1]

Because time is money. Coding out a function is a little bit worrisome. Sticking in a tstat into our housing, and then having to figure out how to code, or make the heater work. Pass.

Hamburg one would be $50 more than the factory 750 one. $50 is not worth it for me to fiddle with for half a day. That is why I say not worth it. If someone can figure this out and make it work, then sure, I might try it.

I'm still looking for a 95C one, but not looking good.

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by V8 00USH

As you say....completely different type of gearbox coupled to a completely different type of engine which also should be worth noting runs substantially cooler. So really bears zero relevance to this post.

In fact the only similarity between the 2 gearboxes is that they are both automatic!

You'd struggle to find an original 5HP24 box in an X5 4.6is with 290,000 miles on it that's for sure!

Valid points.

2002 X5 3.0 290,000 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

[V8 00USH]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Sticking in a tstat into our housing, and then having to figure out how to code, or make the heater work. Pass.

But that's the whole point behind it - it wouldnt matter if the heater didnt work - it just needs to be still plugged in so it didn't trigger a code - or you could resistor across the plug if you used a housing without the heater port so it thought it was still there!

Remember the heater is only there to prematurely open the thermostat before it was designed to - if you ran a 90C stat it wouldnt need to be prematurely opened as it would already be open!

[jfoj]

Originally Posted by V8 00USH

Out of interest......what makes you think the 90deg one wouldnt be worthwhile (if it worked)?

Only downside I can see is that it might trigger a fault code from time to time.

Wonder if you could delete this from the map on the ECU so it either didnt check the temperature at all or perhaps if the temperature/conditions could be altered so it didn't register the fault in the first place!

The 90C will work, it may occasionally trigger a P0128 MAP thermostat code, mine did recently. But I had been closely monitoring the engine coolant temperature with my UltraGauge and saw that the temp had drifted down slightly since the installation about 8 months ago. The main spring was getting weak. The engine was running about 8-10F lower in temp once the outside temps started to drop off.

I went ahead and got a warranty replacement and so far no more P0128 yet and the temps have been holding right at or very close to 90C with the cooler outside temps that have recently arrived.

With the 90C stat, it works, personally I would really like a 95C stat. I find that 205F/96C seems to be a very happy operating temperature for most modern vehicles. What I find is ALL thermostats get soft over time as the main spring looses its strength. With a 95C stat, there is more buffer room before the stat gets weak enough to trigger a P0128, the 90C stat has little wiggle room before the P0128 pops up.

Now I am the primary driver the vehicle and I watch the temps closely and I can quickly and easily read the DTC's with the UltraGauge so I am not worried. If my wife drove this daily, it would be a very different issue. She HATES lights and buzzers, they put her into a funk and she thinks the world is going to end. This is fine for a oil pressure light or a high temp alert, but I cannot get her to understand the yellow lights are usually less of a problem and not so catastrophic.

I would never even worry about attempting to code out the MAP thermostat issue. I may plug an older stat housing into the heater connection and see what happens over the Winter. With the engine running at 90C, not sure the stat heater is really needed, but when looking at the I6 engines, I recall the 96C stat will drop to around 81C when the stat heater is commanded on assuming the ambient is cool enough to drop the temp this low. I may need to verify this number, I may have some graphs/data for the I6 somewhere around here.

[V8 00USH]

After doing some more research I've found an 88 deg one that I will probably look to fit.

BMW Part Numbers 11 53 2 248 542 or 11 53 1 715 254

They come from the 740d and 745d.

Housings appear identical the only difference being the hole for the heater part is blanked. I'm either going to leave the heater part unplugged, resistor it or try and remove the old heater element from the old housing and leave it plugged in.

[snik]

Sorry for the old bump.
In your pics. Where exactly is your thermostat mounted?
Is the 4.6 like the 4.8iS with the stock pos heat exchanger at the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator?

I like the idea of a thermostat, I just can't make out where you have it mounted.

You also said you cut the return run line. So the stock heat exchanger is still there, you just ran a detour from the return line to your 80c thermostat then to your cooler, then back to your return line?




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[V8 00USH]

It's sat literally right next to the standard heat exchanger.

Up until a couple of weeks ago I had the standard heat exchanger still plumbed in but one of the OE couplings failed and spat 6 litres of transmission fluid out so I've completely bypassed it now so it's no longer in the equation.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by V8 00USH

It's sat literally right next to the standard heat exchanger.

Up until a couple of weeks ago I had the standard heat exchanger still plumbed in but one of the OE couplings failed and spat 6 litres of transmission fluid out so I've completely bypassed it now so it's no longer in the equation.

Do you have some new pics of your revised setup?
Have you left the factory trans heat exchanger in place and just blanked off the openings or ports for the hoses?

[V8 00USH]

I don't have some pics but I'll try and get some next time I'm under there. Yes left factory heat exchanger in place so I didnt need to do anything coolant wise - I haven't actually blanked off ports as the exchanger was empty anyway due to what happened but could blank them or loop together with pipe if there was still fluid inside to stop it dripping out.

[snik]

My plan is to fit these...
https://vadersolution.com/products/6...itting-adapter

Then run AN8 lines to a cooler placed in front of the others. (Radiator/ps cooler/condenser)
Bypassing the factory thermostat and cooler.
I've got my eye on a a CXracing 19row cooler. Just have to see what length lines I need.


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