Quote:
Originally Posted by CapeX5
FIXED!! So that owners are able to see solutions to problems thru this forum I wanted to post an update. After much searching/head scratching, I have resolved the no start issue. I finally found a schematic for the starter system and saw that the wire from the ignition switch went thru the DME than to the starter relay. Verified I had 12 volts coming from ignition switch and that the relay was working properly. Went back to fuse panel and started looking closer at what would cause no signal from DME. There is a "engine control" listing, which has 3 fuses for it. #5 is a 7.5amp fuse. Pulled it out, blown, replaced, voila, START!!! Always look at the simple things. Now I have to put my shifter back together, the DME/TCM box, under dash, etc. but at least it starts and runs. Now back to chasing oil leaks and other nonsense……Thank you everyone who took the time to respond and help with this.
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CapeX5 thanks for posting this. I had a similar issue with my 2002 3.0 X5 - this was exactly the cause of my non start problem - fuse #5 (7.5A) was blown. You turn the ignition key, dash lights would come on but it would not crank - I think because the ECM was not getting a "safe" signal from the transmission telling it the gearbox was in Park or Neutral, per the codes we were seeing on the OBD scanner. We were about to explore replacing the shifter assembly. Glad I found this post because swapping the shifter assembly is MAJOR work center console and dash likely have to be removed!), and wasn't the cause of the problem anyway!
More on my problem; The battery and transmission (orange gear) dash lights came on while driving the car. It put the car into limp mode (transmission shifting heavy). I limped the car to my mechanic. After arriving there and shutting it down the car would not restart! The battery level was fine (12.6V) even after driving almost an hour to the mechanic's shop - that should have been a hint. I thought the alternator had failed completely and by the time I reached the mechanic shop the battery would be dead. Usually when that battery light comes on, it means your alternator is not charging the battery. Not so in my case. We checked a bunch of fuses and none were blown. Clearly we did not check ENOUGH of the fuses.
More background on my specific issue. I was aware for more than a week my alternator was on the way out and was awaiting a slot with my mechanic's schedule to go deal with it. Symptom: when you first start the car you would hear a "ghosty" whining noise. That was the mechanical side of the alternator "giving up the ghost" as it were. A worn shaft bearing in the alternator was likely the source of that noise.
On the day fuse #5 blew, I had driven a couple of hours in the car. My thought is; given the alternator was losing it mechanically, at some point during my drive the alternator also lost it electrically and may have surged or spiked which led to fuse 5 blowing and causing a referential problem.
In summary, IF you get those two lights on (battery and orange transmission gear light), go check fuse #5. But, also if fuse 5 is blowing, you might also want to make sure your alternator is not about to die because I think that is what ultimately contributed to my problem.
01-01-2016, 03:04 PM
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