New (old) X5 owner - Problems Already - Shimmy 1/2hr after purchase

[tuvix]

Originally Posted by trader4

So many big mistakes have already been made:

1 - No pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic.

2 - Accepting the flat spot BS instead of telling them to drive the
car, change the tire or whatever to make it right before buying it.

3 - When the vibration started 1/2 hour after purchase, not going right
back and telling them to fix it.

4 - Getting a warranty, but it's 8 hours away for service.

5 - Given that it's 8 hours, not exploring the possibility of the warranty
work being done locally BEFORE buying the car.

Here's my two cents. I'd take the car to an independent mechanic
and have him go over it, give a detailed, written report. Then
he'll have a better idea of what's really wrong. Then I'd compare
the report to what's covered under the warranty. My bet is, the
warranty probably ain't worth much. Based on what's wrong, what's
covered, then he can decide if it's worth taking the car back
for warranty work.

Hi! Man I wish I lived where you do. The sheer number of X5's in and around NJ and NY would have completely changed my purchase procedure. Unfortunately, I live in the middle of nowhere bro. There is not a single X5 for sale (dealer or private) in my price range anywhere near me. I flew to VAN because that's the only place I could get one. Even down there I could only find 3 that were in my price range. My flight was $300 + taxi to dealer was $80 plus food and fuel home comes to like $500 just to get the thing back to the Kootenays. Turning around after the shimmy started would have cost me way more. It was 2PM Saturday, so it probably wouldn't have got in to a shop for inspection until Monday at the earliest (maybe longer because EVERYTHING is booked up because its winter tire season). So I would have to add 2 nights motel, food for 2 days, and miss 2 days work/wages. That is another $1000. Forgive my french, but Im a poor chick, not a rich bitch If the problem is a dragging brake caliper... I can get a pair of calipers for the front for under $200.

Its true that everything you suggested is correct and yes that warranty is pretty much useless unless something major happens, but if I did things the right way there's a good chance the trip would have cost me twice as much or three times as much because I would have come home without one or worse; With a Cherokee or escape YUCK

[tuvix]

Originally Posted by David.X5

Shouldn't he be able to spin whatever wheel is off the ground?

Originally Posted by sunny5280

Or just taking the vehicle back as he has 14 days to return it.

Im a she. Not yer fault tho. Can't find where in my profile to set gender. Dosen't really matter anyway.

Also sunny:
NOOOOOO didn't you read my earlier post IM IN LOVE! NO ONES TAKING BY BABY AWAY FROM ME EVER!!!1!

Seriously, if I take it back then I wont have one and ill be out $1500.

[tuvix]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Sounds like the piston in the brake caliper is either frozen or sticking and not retracting when the brakes is off.

The wheel should spin if one wheel in on the ground and one wheel is in the air and the trans is in neutral. If the wheel doesn't spin, it probably because the brake caliper is frozen. Have a shop look at the wheel that is too hot to touch after the X has been driven for a while. If you are a handy person you can change the caliper yourself, just don't let too much brake fluid leak out when you go to change the caliper or else you are going to have problem with bleeding the ABS pump.

You should also have them check the run out on the rotors. With that much heat, the rotors coulod be warped.

Thanks for the reply. Yesterday when I had the tire off the rotor was spinning okay. But I think you're right that brakes are whats causing the excessive heat, because what else could it be? The rotor was solid and had no play and no obvious warp-age (stuck my head in the wheel well and looked down the rotor while I spun it - looked flat).

Im assuming that the shimmy and heat are the same problem, and not 2 separate problems. I went for 2 drives in it last night. The first one, when the shimmy started, I pulled over immediately and checked the tire and it was hot. The second drive it didn't shimmy, and I purposely locked up the brakes a couple times, and when I got home I checked the tire and it was just slightly warm and was the same warmth as the other 3 wheels.

[David.X5]

I apologize for assuming "he". Subconsciously playing the odds it seems. A BMW enthusiast in any case, so hope we can help.

From all you've said, the wheel bearing and brake caliper are the prime suspects and I would think a wheel bearing making that much heat would also be making a racket.
Once you get that caliper off I think it will start to make sense.

Under inflation can also do this, to some extent at least, have you been checking the tire pressure?

I use a 1/2-inch ratchet handle that extends to 18 inches, with impact rated sockets for suspension and brake work on the X. (1/2 inch torque wrench for assembly).

Something like these- I have some fancier ones, but this product line from HF seems to hold up just fine.

1/2 in. Drive Extendable Ratchet


13 Pc 1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Deep Wall Socket Set

[tuvix]

Originally Posted by David.X5

I apologize for assuming "he". Subconsciously playing the odds it seems. A BMW enthusiast in any case, so hope we can help.

From all you've said, the wheel bearing and brake caliper are the prime suspects and I would think a wheel bearing making that much heat would also be making a racket.
Once you get that caliper off I think it will start to make sense.

Under inflation can also do this, to some extent at least, have you been checking the tire pressure?

I use a 1/2-inch ratchet handle that extends to 18 inches, with impact rated sockets for suspension and brake work on the X. (1/2 inch torque wrench for assembly).

Something like these- I have some fancier ones, but this product line from HF seems to hold up just fine.

1/2 in. Drive Extendable Ratchet


13 Pc 1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Deep Wall Socket Set

No apology necessary David. I'm just one of the boys when it comes to my ride
I've had wheel bearings go on my MX3, so I know that sound well. My X5 is quiet, so I'm guessing (hoping) its not the bearing.
I found this thread on Bimmer: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-stuck-caliper and am leaning towards this being the culprit. It does seem weird to me that the caliper would just all-of-a-sudden start dragging while I'm driving down the highway not using the brakes.
I'm a bit worried that the rotor might have a slight warp in it from the heat its been getting I'm going to have the caliper and rotor checked as soon as I can this week.
I went for a drive an hour ago, and it was great. I wonder if locking up the breaks a few times yesterday did it some good?
I have been looking at rotors and calipers online, and can get a new rotor for $40 and a good used caliper for about the same - So I'm happy about that.
Do I need special tools to change out the rotor? Ill google it

Oh and yea tire pressure is dead-on

[David.X5]

The rotor is mostly held on by the lugs. It has that extra screw to make life easier during assembly (you said you were missing one). Once the caliper is off the rotor will fall/pull off when the extra screw is removed.

[upallnight]

The hex screw that holds the rotor to the hub should be removed with an impact driver. Using just a reguar hex head socket can sometime round out the hex head and the only way to remove that screw will be to drill it out.

here's a Youtube video on how to remove that screw correctly. You can see it at 2:20 into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDz99XESAOM

[bcredliner]

The hard braking could have helped.If the vehicle was sitting long enough to have concern for a flat spotted tire the brake pads could have needed to be bedded again. The process is several stops from 60 MPH. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

[upallnight]

If you do decides to replace the caliper yourself, remember to buy DOT 4 brake fluid. Most places sells DOT 3 fluid, only a few places sells DOT 4 fluid.