HELP!! Car Not Starting.

[Juggernaunt911]

I ran this test many times as I mentioned before and i get zero pressure when running the same test.

[LeiZ]

Sorry to ask you again, but "power to the connector into the pump", can you explain a little bit in details how you test it?

So you turned the key to Position II, and pump no sound, then you unplug the connector, and tested it with multi-meter, and showed 12V?

If so, it's a loose connection or bad pump circuit to me. Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck!

Originally Posted by Juggernaunt911

So when the key is in position 2 (Run) we don't here the pump, but we do have power to the connector into the pump.

So the main problem is that we can't get the pump to come on, which in turn means no rule pressure and no start. However, sometimes when the vehicle has been parked somewhere warm, the pump comes on just fine and there are no issue with starting???? It seems to only happen during cold starts when outside temps are low.

Parts changed already:

Ignition Switch
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump
Battery
Temperature Sensor

[upallnight]

Some of the info you posted is very confusing. You posted that you have 12 volts at the pump but the pump does not turn on. This will normally point to a bad pump. Did you measure the pump voltage or the fuel sender volatge?

You posted that you have already replaced the pump, did you use a new or use pump, oem or some wing wang pump brought on eBay or Amazon?

You also posted that you were able to turn the pump on through software program. When you had the system primed did the engine start? Did it remain running once it started if it started?

Car will start when it is warm, but with the recent cold weather the car doesn't start.

Would love to help you get your X running but since we can't see the car physically we have to rely on what you post on this forum.

[Juggernaunt911]

My apologies, I did not mean to confuse you guys . I was merely just trying to answer peoples questions, but most of them I already answered in my previous threads so I had to repeat.

upallnight please see my responses, hopefully clears things up a bit.
I am 99% sure we measured 12 volts at the pump, but I would need to confirm that with my mechanic as I was not around during that specific time when we tested that.
Yes we replaced the pump with a brand new OEM pump, NOT an ebay or aftermarket one from Amazon.
Yes, when we turn the pump on via software the engine was able to start and run without issues.
Car does start when warm (confirmed fuel pressure and pump operation). When parked over a period of time in colder weather I can get it started but not after about 5-10min of continious cranking.

So a couple of questions I have....
1. I can get the pump going via the software and see pressure at the rail, would that not mean my pump is indeed functioning and connection to the pump is fine??
2. Would a dead key fob cause this? Don't think so based on my symptoms, but I thought I should ask.

My symptoms again:
- Crank no start (Cold Weather)
- Fuel pump not coming on therefor zero pressure at rail
Key Points:
- Car seems to start fine when warm. Confirmed fuel pump coming on and pressure at rail

Hope this helps, again appreciate your help on this guys!

[jfoj]

Not sure how I would address this problem.

I might back probe the fuel pump power and run the wires into the cabin so I can confirm 100% that there is no power to the pump when there is a no start. You could use an LED or test light.

Have not seen EWS problems with the E70, but we have seen problems with EWS/Keys on the E46/E38/E39 that would crank but not start. Usually another key would be the solution.

Do you put the key in the dash or do you keep the key in your pocket?

Have you tried another key to see if you have the same problem with a different key?

As mentioned, could be a bad connection/ground somewhere that does not like the cold temps.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by jfoj

Not sure how I would address this problem.

I might back probe the fuel pump power and run the wires into the cabin so I can confirm 100% that there is no power to the pump when there is a no start. You could use an LED or test light.

Have not seen EWS problems with the E70, but we have seen problems with EWS/Keys on the E46/E38/E39 that would crank but not start. Usually another key would be the solution.

Do you put the key in the dash or do you keep the key in your pocket?

Have you tried another key to see if you have the same problem with a different key?

As mentioned, could be a bad connection/ground somewhere that does not like the cold temps.

FYI this is the E53 Forum.

[jfoj]

Originally Posted by upallnight

FYI this is the E53 Forum.

Yep, I work many different forums so occasionally I make a mistake. I have an E70 so this is probably why it jumped out of my head instead of E53.

My comments are pertinent to the E53 as it is a close cousin to the E39/E46 where we have seen EWS problems that are crank but no start. In theory this should not happen, but it has been seen many times and usually the problems have been key, not EWS specific.

[Juggernaunt911]

Hey Guys,

Just thought that I would update. After countless hours of work and diagnostics we still were not able to find an issue. However, the car has been starting without issue for 4 days now even in cold weather We suspect that after unplugging and plugging connections during troubleshooting we may a fixed it, I am not too confident yet, will give it some time and see how it goes.

I have a new issue which could be related to my existing. It appears that my X5 does not go into sleep mode (after 16min), everything appears to stay on and eventually drains battery. We noticed that after locking the car that the alarm would trigger about 15min later. Initial thoughts were that it could be hood sensor switch (common problem) but I know low voltage can cause this also.
I charged battery overnight and verified proper voltage then left it off charge for the day and came back and it was flat dead.

So from what I can tell, internal climate control fan stays running all night, as well as gear shift light and other features. I confirmed by leaving window down and periodically checking after sometime and sure enough car still seemed to be awake even overnight.

Have never ran into this before, what would be the possible causes for this?? I realize I have parasitic draw happening but what would cause car stay "awake"

Thanks Fellas!

[Juggernaunt911]

Forgot to mention that I have the glove box apart, but not sure if this would affect anything?

[CapeX5]

The best way to deal with this so you aren't throwing darts with a blindfold on is to do a amperage draw on the battery. Not sure if this is more complicated than you are ready to deal with, but basically you get a multimeter, disconnect the positive battery cable and set your meter up for amperage reading. Put leads in series with the battery and the cable. Look for the draw. Start pulling fuses until you see what circuit it is that shuts down the parasitic draw. Than start digging into that system systematically. Hope this helps.