Time for some work...

[weiln12]

OK, found the inspection hole. That's what that random screw that I didn't remove is for! That makes sense now.

I've also gone over all the timing procedures again, and I'm positive I did it correctly. Even the timing wheels, I used the Bimmer Tool Rentals kit. Are we talking about the wheels being off by fractions? Like the difference in size between the timing wheel locking pin and the hole? I also find it curious that BOTH sides are off since I'm getting a code for both sides. Wouldn't that be more likely to be a skipped tooth?

Sorry, just kind of thinking out loud here.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by weiln12

OK, found the inspection hole. That's what that random screw that I didn't remove is for! That makes sense now.

I've also gone over all the timing procedures again, and I'm positive I did it correctly. Even the timing wheels, I used the Bimmer Tool Rentals kit. Are we talking about the wheels being off by fractions? Like the difference in size between the timing wheel locking pin and the hole? I also find it curious that BOTH sides are off since I'm getting a code for both sides. Wouldn't that be more likely to be a skipped tooth?

Sorry, just kind of thinking out loud here.

I have seen half tooth out setting off codes after 50 miles of driving. These German engines are intricate.

[weiln12]

OK, so I just read through Deansbimmer on his 4.4 resto build and I think I did the timing wrong. I know he mentioned turning the VANOS counterclockwise until it stopped and set the timing wheel. I didn't do that. Right now it still runs great, with the exception the timing is off. I'll probably hold off re-doing the timing for another month so I can get the house closed and moved, and then I'll have plenty of space and light to get it done.

Essentially I screwed up and need to read the book next time instead of just random web pages and looking at what pieces fit together right. Oops.

Also, I need to figure out how to get the hood into its fully open mode, that was pretty awesome!

[Spanker]

lol......glad you found culprit!

Originally Posted by weiln12

OK, so I just read through Deansbimmer on his 4.4 resto build and I think I did the timing wrong. I know he mentioned turning the VANOS counterclockwise until it stopped and set the timing wheel. I didn't do that. Right now it still runs great, with the exception the timing is off. I'll probably hold off re-doing the timing for another month so I can get the house closed and moved, and then I'll have plenty of space and light to get it done.

Essentially I screwed up and need to read the book next time instead of just random web pages and looking at what pieces fit together right. Oops.

Also, I need to figure out how to get the hood into its fully open mode, that was pretty awesome!

[weiln12]

@Spanker - Your username seems especially appropriate at the moment.

[Spanker]

After dragging my feet, I finally pushed myself and finished installing timing guide rails, valley pan gasket repair, new water pump, valve cover gaskets, all new hoses, oil seals, etc.

On start up, there was a bit of a rattle, but that was probably was due to oil starvation. Car started almost immediately. Ran very smooth. After a few seconds rattle went away and I haven't heard any rattles since.

About a minute later the "service engine light" came on. Perturbed, I checked the codes and it was the P011 and P021 codes. That means the computer detected a discrepancy between the CPS and the timing wheels on the left and right engine banks.

Next, I noticed a slight oil leak on the passenger's side. It was dripping on top of the air conditioning compressor. I believe it is the O Ring for the dipstick. F**k!

Drove the car and it drove fine. Opened the water expansion tank and noticed tiny little brown bubbles. Head gasket? Nope. Put some of the water on a paper towel and sniffed it. Transmission fluid!!!!!

So, the Beisan Vanos kit was a complete success. I changed the o-rings and crimped the vanos as per their instructions. Glad I did so. The engine is very very quiet and smooth.

Checked transmission fluid. . . no water (phew!!!). Didn't lose much fluid. I removed the transmission heat exchanger, sealed off all of the water lines going to the transmission thermostat and added a Hayden air cooler. After adding the cooler, I heard the transmission making a lot of noise and it went into failsafe mode. I cycled the shifter through all of the gears and the sound went away. The failsafe warning also went away. I can only guess that a lot of air got pushed through the tranny making it lose pressure momentarily tripping the warning. Transmission temperature dropped about 20 degrees! (was same as water temperature before...now about 170 degrees) Yay! Apparently the failure of the heat exchanger occurs only when it got hot. Will not trust another heat exchanger with my transmission.

Removed valve covers and marked timing wheels with a magic marker. My goal was to turn the wheels clockwise 1/16 of an inch at a time until I got the codes to go away. It worked on the first try for both sides. Its odd how little it was off. Just one width of the magic marker line was all that was needed. .

The dipstick O ring looks like a real PITA to change. The leak has increased.

Soon will have my beloved X5 back in full form for the summer. It has been sitting for 2 years and I refused to sell it. The water pump disintegrated and i decided to fix everything on the engine. Got a lot of ideas from this forum. The only thing I am worried about is the driveline and transmission. But, when and if it happens....Im going to rebuild it myself. Its got 197,000 miles and I intend to keep this truck another 200,000. At 300,000, I'll open her up again and change everything again to get that last 100k out of it.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by Spanker

After dragging my feet, I finally pushed myself and finished installing timing guide rails, valley pan gasket repair, new water pump, valve cover gaskets, all new hoses, oil seals, etc.

On start up, there was a bit of a rattle, but that was probably was due to oil starvation. Car started almost immediately. Ran very smooth. After a few seconds rattle went away and I haven't heard any rattles since.

About a minute later the "service engine light" came on. Perturbed, I checked the codes and it was the P011 and P021 codes. That means the computer detected a discrepancy between the CPS and the timing wheels on the left and right engine banks.

Next, I noticed a slight oil leak on the passenger's side. It was dripping on top of the air conditioning compressor. I believe it is the O Ring for the dipstick. F**k!

Drove the car and it drove fine. Opened the water expansion tank and noticed tiny little brown bubbles. Head gasket? Nope. Put some of the water on a paper towel and sniffed it. Transmission fluid!!!!!

So, the Beisan Vanos kit was a complete success. I changed the o-rings and crimped the vanos as per their instructions. Glad I did so. The engine is very very quiet and smooth.

Checked transmission fluid. . . no water (phew!!!). Didn't lose much fluid. I removed the transmission heat exchanger, sealed off all of the water lines going to the transmission thermostat and added a Hayden air cooler. After adding the cooler, I heard the transmission making a lot of noise and it went into failsafe mode. I cycled the shifter through all of the gears and the sound went away. The failsafe warning also went away. I can only guess that a lot of air got pushed through the tranny making it lose pressure momentarily tripping the warning. Transmission temperature dropped about 20 degrees! (was same as water temperature before...now about 170 degrees) Yay! Apparently the failure of the heat exchanger occurs only when it got hot. Will not trust another heat exchanger with my transmission.

Removed valve covers and marked timing wheels with a magic marker. My goal was to turn the wheels clockwise 1/16 of an inch at a time until I got the codes to go away. It worked on the first try for both sides. Its odd how little it was off. Just one width of the magic marker line was all that was needed. .

The dipstick O ring looks like a real PITA to change. The leak has increased.

Soon will have my beloved X5 back in full form for the summer. It has been sitting for 2 years and I refused to sell it. The water pump disintegrated and i decided to fix everything on the engine. Got a lot of ideas from this forum. The only thing I am worried about is the driveline and transmission. But, when and if it happens....Im going to rebuild it myself. Its got 197,000 miles and I intend to keep this truck another 200,000. At 300,000, I'll open her up again and change everything again to get that last 100k out of it.

Yes adjusting the timing wheels does make service engine light go away. 1/16 increments is a good way to go. I have seen it where it is just one bank on the engine that needs adjusting and all is good. Oh by the way the beisian kit is great at fixing the vanos. I have installed 3 of them to date.

[Spanker]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

Yes adjusting the timing wheels does make service engine light go away. 1/16 increments is a good way to go. I have seen it where it is just one bank on the engine that needs adjusting and all is good. Oh by the way the beisian kit is great at fixing the vanos. I have installed 3 of them to date.

Have you noticed that nearly everything single person who has done a DIY 4.4i valve timing ....gets the same exact code p0011 and p0021? The tool used to adjust the timing wheel (bimmer tool rental), is not accurate enough. I think a better approach is tif someone developed an electronic timing device that assists in timing the timing wheel to the cps. Or a way to fine tune it using software after getting close with the tool. There are just too many ways for the timing wheel tool to be off because of engine block metal casting discrepancies and the such. It truly is a sensitive adjustment.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by Spanker

Have you noticed that nearly everything single person who has done a DIY 4.4i valve timing ....gets the same exact code p0011 and p0021? The tool used to adjust the timing wheel (bimmer tool rental), is not accurate enough. I think a better approach is tif someone developed an electronic timing device that assists in timing the timing wheel to the cps. Or a way to fine tune it using software after getting close with the tool. There are just too many ways for the timing wheel tool to be off because of engine block metal casting discrepancies and the such. It truly is a sensitive adjustment.

Yes this does appear to be a common adjustment after doing a timing job. The tool that many of us are using is not as accurate and robust as the tool that BMW technicians use to perform the service. If we went with the BMW OE tool then we would have paid alot more and probably have to rent it out to recoup the outlay of money for one of these tools. Out of the three timing services that I have performed only one did not require the timing wheel to be adjusted. My other 2 cases required the bank 2 timing wheel to be adjusted.

[weiln12]

OK, it's been a while since I last posted on here. But, here's where we're at.

I'm impatient and was frustrated so I took it to the dealer. I know some will be unhappy about that, but in the end I want to drive my X5 so I had a professional do it. No, it wasn't cheap but in the end I think it was the best choice.

I got it back after 2.5 weeks with the following done:

Valve Cover Gaskets
Upper Timing Cover Gaskets
Timing done (I think they said it was off 15*)
Gasket for Tensioner Bolt (I guess I missed this)

Those were the pieces of stuff I did they had to fix. Apparently I didn't "preload" the valve cover gaskets so they were leaking again. And the gasket for the tensioner bolt was also missing which was leaking.

Also, their inspection showed the front lower control arms needed to be replaced so I had those replaced.

I don't regret replacing all the cooling hoses and replacing a lot of parts, but I have learned to stay out of the engine. I feel much better about everything now and I should be good to go for a while. Now she runs great!

I'm also still waiting for other parts to fail, like the window units. And I need to clean the passenger mirror...it searches around when in reverse.