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  #21  
Old 02-19-2016, 10:06 AM
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Brake Light and the Wear Sensor

Below is the Wear Sensor that turns on the light "Brake Linings". Your 2005 3.0 X5 has two sensors one left front and one Right rear. They are a "One Time Use" sensor that trip the light when the min thickness of the pad is reached at the caliper in which they reside. They operate just like the noise sensors that most manufacturers use on bake pads installed in US cars. When min thickness is reached, they do something. In the case of the noise sensors, they scratch on the rotor face and create a hi pitched noise. The BMW wear sensors are nothing more than a low voltage wire circuit that when broken (cut by the rotor when min level of the pad is reached) turns on an idiot light on your dash.

When you replace the pads, you replace the sensor, turn on the key (don't start the car) for 30 secs and the light is reset. All shops replace these sensors each and every time brake system is serviced. DIY efforts allow you to reuse the sensor IF it has not been activated, i.e cut by the rotor. Note:70/80% of brake wear is on the front pads. So you get the chance to do the fronts twice to every rear pad replacement.

Recommendations: Replace the pads all the way around on your first brake job of ownership, that way you will know what brand is used, everything is in working order, and if you choose, you can purchase pads that will give you either OE braking dust or something a whole lot less dust.
Calipers - My personal recommendation is to replace all the little parts on the calipers like mounting pins, the rubber boots in the calipers, and flush the brake fluid as this will give you a great base point and peace of mind when you pound on the brakes one morning trying to avoid another sleepy head on their way to work.
Pads - POWER STOP 17681 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits, as these will give you close to OE cold stopping, better hot stopping, and will have 20% of the dust. See Rockauto.com.
Brake Fluid - See Autozone/Advance/Wall Mart etc and pick up DOT 3/DOT 4 silicone brake fluid like Valvoline brand. Flush every two years and you are good to go.

I am sure others will chip in with personal favorites as well.. Once it warms up, change the oil and filters (air, Oil, and cabin) as well as that is the life blood of the vehicle. Lots of self help info post up top under "Articles", so you get to experience replacing the valve cover gaskets & seals, Alt bracket oil seal, cooling system refresh (Rad, pump, hoses, sensors, clamps), change Diff fluids, CCVC refresh (OIL SEPARATOR), wiper blades, tires, and all the normal wear items that will need service in the life of our vehicles. Welcome to the family. This site has a TON of information so make the SEARCH feature your first choice before posting as trust us, you are NOT the first one who is experiencing the issue.
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green

Last edited by StephenVA; 02-19-2016 at 10:17 AM.
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  #22  
Old 02-19-2016, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Below is the Wear Sensor that turns on the light "Brake Linings". Your 2005 3.0 X5 has two sensors one left front and one Right rear. They are a "One Time Use" sensor that trip the light when the min thickness of the pad is reached at the caliper in which they reside. They operate just like the noise sensors that most manufacturers use on bake pads installed in US cars. When min thickness is reached, they do something. In the case of the noise sensors, they scratch on the rotor face and create a hi pitched noise. The BMW wear sensors are nothing more than a low voltage wire circuit that when broken (cut by the rotor when min level of the pad is reached) turns on an idiot light on your dash.

When you replace the pads, you replace the sensor, turn on the key (don't start the car) for 30 secs and the light is reset. All shops replace these sensors each and every time brake system is serviced. DIY efforts allow you to reuse the sensor IF it has not been activated, i.e cut by the rotor. Note:70/80% of brake wear is on the front pads. So you get the chance to do the fronts twice to every rear pad replacement.

Recommendations: Replace the pads all the way around on your first brake job of ownership, that way you will know what brand is used, everything is in working order, and if you choose, you can purchase pads that will give you either OE braking dust or something a whole lot less dust.
Calipers - My personal recommendation is to replace all the little parts on the calipers like mounting pins, the rubber boots in the calipers, and flush the brake fluid as this will give you a great base point and peace of mind when you pound on the brakes one morning trying to avoid another sleepy head on their way to work.
Pads - POWER STOP 17681 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits, as these will give you close to OE cold stopping, better hot stopping, and will have 20% of the dust. See Rockauto.com.
Brake Fluid - See Autozone/Advance/Wall Mart etc and pick up DOT 3/DOT 4 silicone brake fluid like Valvoline brand. Flush every two years and you are good to go.

I am sure others will chip in with personal favorites as well.. Once it warms up, change the oil and filters (air, Oil, and cabin) as well as that is the life blood of the vehicle. Lots of self help info post up top under "Articles", so you get to experience replacing the valve cover gaskets & seals, Alt bracket oil seal, cooling system refresh (Rad, pump, hoses, sensors, clamps), change Diff fluids, CCVC refresh (OIL SEPARATOR), wiper blades, tires, and all the normal wear items that will need service in the life of our vehicles. Welcome to the family. This site has a TON of information so make the SEARCH feature your first choice before posting as trust us, you are NOT the first one who is experiencing the issue.
Very helpful post! Thank you so much. I will work on it this weekend and come back with what I learn.
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  #23  
Old 02-19-2016, 10:35 AM
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That is what this forum is all about helping each other resolve ownership challenges through sharing info and knowledge learned the hard way...
Now it is going to 60 degrees tomorrow here in Wash DC, so I am shifting to detailing out doors! Three need a bath and a little wax on the hood areas. Then it off to a car cover for the non daily's as it will rain on Sunday/Monday. Winter does suck. At least all the snow melted away...
__________________

2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #24  
Old 02-20-2016, 11:45 AM
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quick update:
replaced the battery and she fired right up. Hopefully it will stay charged. The "old" one was purchased 6-2014, so I'm not sure what to make of that. I replaced the hood struts and that resolved the hood release issue. I am working on the new brakes and sensors this afternoon ( have to go buy a 7mm hex socket). New issue I found this morning though...torn outer cv boots on the front
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  #25  
Old 02-20-2016, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASUMTNEER View Post
quick update:
replaced the battery and she fired right up. Hopefully it will stay charged. The "old" one was purchased 6-2014, so I'm not sure what to make of that. I replaced the hood struts and that resolved the hood release issue. I am working on the new brakes and sensors this afternoon ( have to go buy a 7mm hex socket). New issue I found this morning though...torn outer cv boots on the front
Could have been a bad battery. Had one that was return the next day after replacing it. Your battery should still be under warranty.
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2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
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  #26  
Old 02-20-2016, 08:53 PM
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Took the old battery back and it tested at 8.09V. The guy at the counter said it was probably a dead cell.
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2016, 10:36 PM
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Anything that low is dead.....
__________________

2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #28  
Old 02-21-2016, 12:33 PM
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Somebody tell me there is supposed to be a rectangular sized opening in the bottom of the transmission!
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  #29  
Old 02-21-2016, 12:45 PM
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At the bottom of the bell housing, yes, to access the flywheel bolts
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  #30  
Old 02-21-2016, 01:27 PM
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Just about had a heart attack! Thanks for clearing that up.
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