Change Oil in AT or repair unavoidable?

[Temuka]

Hello everyone !

I've been with this car for 3 years now and I must say that I love her really much. The only problem she has is with the AT. The symptoms are:
1) If I put leg on stop pedal during driving,make the car almost stop and then put foot on gas pedal,there is some kinda small hitch and car continuous driving with no problem;
2) When I stop car in downhill position,turn it off,put it in P, than it makes some kinda hitch movement,little forwards and backwards (it's kinda difficult to explain,but I hope you understand);
3) In downhill position sometimes makes kick (hard kick sound and feel) sound when changing from P to R;

Other than that,everything in AT works good,no pause between switching,changing P>N>R>D is very smooth,everything is fine when car is not in downhill or uphill position,just normal position.

So I went to check the oil level in AT and I found out that it need 1 liter to be added,so 1 liter was added (no filter change or pan washing) The symptoms became kinda better,but they still are.

What should I do now ? Should I change all oil in AT,change filter and wash the pan? Or does the AT needs requirement? I also heard,that changing all oil isn't good? (but I can't understand logic here)

My car is 2006 year,4.4 with 149k Miles
I don't know if there was done AT oil change procedure before me,because I bought it second hand when it had 125K Miles on it

Thanks in advance guys !!

[David.X5]

I would try to drain the fluid, change the filter, refill and see how it goes. Follow the picky procedure to fill it correctly and use good oil (ZF or BMW). I've not heard warnings about doing this. If it helps, drain and refill a second time. A drain procedure like this only gets about 2/3 of the old fluid out. So, doing it twice means you have 8/9 new fluid

I think the aversion is to the power flush places that pump a lot of generic oil through the tranny and risk dislodging debris, and leave behind several quarts of the generic flushing fluid.

[upallnight]

Most likely the F drum sealing for the clutch is worn or leaking fluid. Only fix is a rebuild or replacement trans. Some info on common problem with the zf5hp24 trans.

ZF 5HP24 potential failure causes...

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Most likely the F drum sealing for the clutch is worn or leaking fluid. Only fix is a rebuild or replacement trans. Some info on common problem with the zf5hp24 trans.

ZF 5HP24 potential failure causes...

2006 MY car should have the GA6HP26Z transmission...

The issues mentioned are common to most auto transmissions to some degree.

The transition from braking to power can produce a very slight hiccup if the trans shifts from second back down to first, similar to the rolling stop jolt thing. Driveline backlash can contribute to this issue. This is normal.

When the car is parked on a slope and Park is engaged (without the park brake being set) driveline flex and trans mount flex will allow the car to rock back and forwards slightly, as any motion is arrested. This is normal.

When the car is parked on a slope and the driveline flex and trans mount flex has "loaded up", then there can be a "clang" when the trans is shifted to operate in the other direction (i.e. reverse) as the driveline etc. "unloads". This is normal.

I don't see an issue here...

[g300d]

I would reset trans adaptations in INPA to see if it improves things.

You can also check a few aspects of trans operation while you are there, like actuating valves and solenoids.

Changing trans oil is a personal decision as there is no recommendation from BMW. I personally do it at every 30k or so. I did it at 30k and planning one now that I am at 60k. Just be aware there is persistent chatter of broken transmisions soon after high mileage trans oil changes, a lot of these from people who have never changed it before then. Not making a recommendation either way, just passing along what I've come across for your consideration.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by Temuka

Hello everyone !

I've been with this car for 3 years now and I must say that I love her really much. The only problem she has is with the AT. The symptoms are:
1) If I put leg on stop pedal during driving,make the car almost stop and then put foot on gas pedal,there is some kinda small hitch and car continuous driving with no problem;
2) When I stop car in downhill position,turn it off,put it in P, than it makes some kinda hitch movement,little forwards and backwards (it's kinda difficult to explain,but I hope you understand);
3) In downhill position sometimes makes kick (hard kick sound and feel) sound when changing from P to R;

Other than that,everything in AT works good,no pause between switching,changing P>N>R>D is very smooth,everything is fine when car is not in downhill or uphill position,just normal position.

So I went to check the oil level in AT and I found out that it need 1 liter to be added,so 1 liter was added (no filter change or pan washing) The symptoms became kinda better,but they still are.

What should I do now ? Should I change all oil in AT,change filter and wash the pan? Or does the AT needs requirement? I also heard,that changing all oil isn't good? (but I can't understand logic here)

My car is 2006 year,4.4 with 149k Miles
I don't know if there was done AT oil change procedure before me,because I bought it second hand when it had 125K Miles on it

Thanks in advance guys !!

You should try flushing the system first at minimum before spending the big dollars. I believe with the filter change they encourage the mechatronic to be changed. Start here first see what you get. If this does not improve it may be time for an overhaul or remanufactured trans unit.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by David.X5

I would try to drain the fluid, change the filter, refill and see how it goes. Follow the picky procedure to fill it correctly and use good oil (ZF or BMW). I've not heard warnings about doing this. If it helps, drain and refill a second time. A drain procedure like this only gets about 2/3 of the old fluid out. So, doing it twice means you have 8/9 new fluid

I think the aversion is to the power flush places that pump a lot of generic oil through the tranny and risk dislodging debris, and leave behind several quarts of the generic flushing fluid.

If you flush it with ZF fluid then where is the generic fluid coming from? We flush with whatever is going to reside in the trans at the end of the process.

[g300d]

Oh, and have you checked the rest of your driveline for worn rubber like the engine/tranny mounts, flex discs, diff mounts, subframe mounts?

[X5only]

Originally Posted by wpoll

2006 MY car should have the GA6HP26Z transmission...

The issues mentioned are common to most auto transmissions to some degree.

The transition from braking to power can produce a very slight hiccup if the trans shifts from second back down to first, similar to the rolling stop jolt thing. Driveline backlash can contribute to this issue. This is normal.

When the car is parked on a slope and Park is engaged (without the park brake being set) driveline flex and trans mount flex will allow the car to rock back and forwards slightly, as any motion is arrested. This is normal.

When the car is parked on a slope and the driveline flex and trans mount flex has "loaded up", then there can be a "clang" when the trans is shifted to operate in the other direction (i.e. reverse) as the driveline etc. "unloads". This is normal.

I don't see an issue here...

+1. My X5, E92 and E39 do this. Sounds normal to me.