2005 X5 Issues

[nebilex]

Originally Posted by Echo304

Hello all! I wish my first post on this site wasnt one in search of some help/advice, but unfortunately it is.

I purchased a 2005 X5 4.4i last summer, and at first things seemed fine. There were a few issues, but the car is 11 years old, it's anticipated. We got the issues fixed and kept on going. The check side lights light has been on for an eternity, but all the lights are working properly...

Recently, the expansion tank started leaking. No big deal, again it's an 11 year old car. On my way back from school (I go to school in OH and live in NY) for spring break, I got a warning telling me that the self level suspension was inactive. I pulled off at the next exit and noticed that the rear air bags were fully inflated. I had to finish the drive home, and after letting the car sit once home the airbags went back to normal and haven't fully inflated like that again. The car still tells me that the self level suspension is inactive every time I turn it on. We were going to replace the rear sensors when I got home for summer break. Once or twice since spring break, the run flat sensor has gone off but the tires were always fully inflated. I used the tire checker button (sorry I dont remember what it's exactly called) and reset it, and the warning went away.

On the way back from spring break, I was riding with cruise control engaged and lightly tapped the brakes to disengage the cruise and slow down, and the car flashed a whole bunch of dashboard lights (the seatbelt light, brake light, the ABS light, and the airbag light) and gave me the message "4x4 / DSC disabled" but then seemed to reset itself and went away. I ran the car check twice and it didn't pop up. Some minor issues while driving around school, but nothing like that.

On the way home for summer break, I was travelling at 75 Mph, and was using cruise control. The radio started intermittently pausing/skipping, and that happened before it flashed the "4x4 / DSC disabled" last time, so i knew it was coming. The car flashed that message again, but this time without the influence of cruise control being disabled. I kept going, and the message went away the same as last time. Approximately 5 minutes later, while still on cruise control, the car flashed the same lights (the seatbelt, brake, ABS, and airbag light) but said something like "Engine Recovery in Prog" and I felt the front end dip and could tell the engine had like disengaged. This was only for a moment, and the car picked up again. But I pulled off at the next rest stop, and listened to the engine and something doesn't sound right.

I'll attach a video of the engine in a minute, but in discussion with my parents (who were driving in front of me when this all happened, and then followed me afterwards) we are starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the car's computer? Or what other possibilities are there? There are no warning lights ever on when I am just driving.

I'm gonna go take pictures/video and post them in a little bit. Thanks for any help, in advance!

How old is the battery, maybe your battery doesn't have the right voltage... also, is your alternator factory or changed? how many miles on your the car?

[Echo304]

Originally Posted by nebilex

How old is the battery, maybe your battery doesn't have the right voltage... also, is your alternator factory or changed? how many miles on your the car?

There's 114,900 miles on it, and the battery was just changed in March. The alternator bit, I don't know. How would I tell that?

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Echo304

There's 114,900 miles on it, and the battery was just changed in March. The alternator bit, I don't know. How would I tell that?

You can unlock the OBC (on Board Computer) and monitor the battery voltage while the engine is running. The battery voltage should be between 13.2 and 14.2. If it is going beyond 14.2 the voltage is spiking and causing your problems.
If it goes below 13.2 you alternator is not putting out enough to power all the electronic in the truck.

[Echo304]

Originally Posted by upallnight

You can unlock the OBC (on Board Computer) and monitor the battery voltage while the engine is running. The battery voltage should be between 13.2 and 14.2. If it is going beyond 14.2 the voltage is spiking and causing your problems.
If it goes below 13.2 you alternator is not putting out enough to power all the electronic in the truck.

I ran test 9, which was the test I found for voltage information, and while sitting it was reading 11.9 V but as soon as I started driving it started fluctuating between 14 and 14.3 V

[Echo304]

Figured that I might as well add this on here, because I haven't found an actual answer for this. I was transporting gear a little while back, and I needed to keep the back hatch open for a while so I popped the lock so it would shut the tail lights off. We loaded everything up, and then without asking one of the guys slammed the lid down on the closed lock. It stopped closing (like when you shut the lid normally it automatically locks down normally, but after the guy slammed it it stopped), and so I removed all the rear facade panels and did the quick fix where you meddle with the locking mechanism, so I can manually get it to lock now, but the car doesn't recognize that the tailgate is shut.

>> Loading gear in trunk with hatch mechanism closed but hatch open
>> Guy slams hatch on closed mechanism
>> Mechanism stops automatically closing on lock
>> Fiddles with mechanism, can close mechanism manually with keys or button now
>> Car doesn't recognize that the hatch is closed

== Do I need to buy a new latch or is there a fix for it? (Because the car doesn't recognize that the hatch is closed I had to remove the tailgate lights, so I'd like to fix that...)

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Echo304

I ran test 9, which was the test I found for voltage information, and while sitting it was reading 11.9 V but as soon as I started driving it started fluctuating between 14 and 14.3 V

Looks like the alternator is not charging at low RPM. Most likely the brushes are worn. You can replace the brushes and regulator if you are a DIYer.

[iansanderson]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Looks like the alternator is not charging at low RPM. Most likely the brushes are worn. You can replace the brushes and regulator if you are a DIYer.

I agree. Classic electrical under voltage symptoms in an E53. I would replace the brushes in the alternator ASAP. They usually don't make it much past 100K. If it keeps happening, check the connections on the battery and have it tested.

[StephenVA]

with all the above that the charging system is causing your idiot lights to turn in and off intermittently. The X5 electronics is highly sensitive to voltage fluctuation (welcome to 1999 technology).

As posted, having your alternator tested (load tested with a carbon pile tester- image below) will show that the regulator is not functional as designed. As mentioned the brushes wear out internally some where between 80-130K depending on electrical load from stereo, AC, wipers, heated seats, etc. You get the picture.

Bottom line: test, repair, or replace. or wait to be towed off the interstate. Your options, Your life.