Smoking problem: Fixed

stiubhartach · #1 05-17-2016, 12:18 AM

4) this is the diaphragm that needs changed periodically. It controls the vacuum in the crankcase and fits into the top of the valve cover. The central orange ring is one of the sealing surfaces as well as the outer area. The plastic cap seems to break tabs when it is pulled off.

5) this is a view of the valve cover with the integral pressure valve/ CCV valve.

stiubhartach · #2 05-17-2016, 12:29 AM

6) here's another view of the CCV valve from Pelican parts.

7) this is a view of the inside of the valve where the gunk was. Photo is from a thread on this site. Photo is a little blurry, but other good photos on the other thread. This is the link to the thread.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...nt-repair.html

stiubhartach · #3 05-17-2016, 12:47 AM

8) this is similar to what the integral valve looks like inside. This is NOT the one on the n62. I think this is the external one mounted on the back of the m62. I might be wrong though. The passage toward the bottom is the oil drain to allow the oil to flow back into the engine. If it is plugged and the oil pools then it will get sucked not the intake manifold. Also, under high vacuum like acceleration, the central port is closed by the diaphragm. It only allows flow from the crankcase into the intake under light vacuum. I think this is what was not sealing in my problem. Under acceleration the high vacuum would suck pooled oil out of the valve and directly into the left side of the manifold and into the cylinders.

stiubhartach · #4 05-17-2016, 01:09 AM

Think I have answered most of the questions, but I will be glad to elaborate if anyone needs more info. So to recap, if you have this issue, this is what I would do.

1) buy two new diaphragms with caps. You will break the caps getting them off.

2) remove the old ones and discard. A torn diaphragm will cause this problem too.

3 clean out all the gunk with carb cleaner. Try not to let it run down into the engine. It's not the end of the world though as its volatile and will evaporate out quickly while driving.

4)Make sure that the drain passage is draining. You can pour a little oil into it and see if it goes down. A pipe cleaner might be helpful.

5) clean out the hose that goes to the intake manifold. The fitting is a handy squeeze clip thing.

6) Reassemble. There is a vacuum nipple on the cap that goes no where. It was confusing to me.

7) I emphatically do NOT recommend ever using any stop leak or oil additive products in a tight tolerance engine like this one. The sealing components tend to gum up the important stuff I use only synthetic oil. I like Mobile One 0-40, but there are many good ones.

8) synthetic oil has amazing performance, but will find every possible leak point. That's just going to happen. But an oil leak doesnt hurt anything, other than your driveway. They are usually not worth fixing. They get fixed eventually during a serious repair.

Thanks for the good response to my post. Please report back if this works for you so that other owners can benefit from the feedback. Photos are always good too.

X5only · #5 05-18-2016, 02:10 AM

I'm definitely going to try this tomorrow now that the pcvs have just arrived. Smoke comes only from the passenger side exhaust. And this gets me thinking......when I was doing the water pipe and the upper timing case gaskets, I opened only the driver side intake manifold and cleaned the vent pipes on that side only. I was able to change the passenger side timing cover without opening that side intake. Any way, we shall see tomorrow if cleaning both side stops the smoking....

By the way, in your case the smoking stopped immediately, it wasn't a gradual process, right?

I will be doubly, utterly shocked if this fixes my smoking issue

4.8iS Le Mans_NZ · #6 05-18-2016, 06:41 PM

I'll definitely be replacing and cleaning those CCV parts identified by stiubhartach - many thanks for the pictures and further info.
But for now though, my smoking issue seems to have been cured by a process of trial and error, using quantities of gradually thicker oils in sequence, as follows:
1) pre-insp. II - no smoke evident
2) post-insp. II and fresh Castrol Edge 5W-30 full synthetic oil - big clouds of blue smoke after extended idle
3) drained out 4L of oil and replaced with 4L of Shell 5W-40 full synthetic - still moderate smoke after extended idle, maybe a little less than before
4) drained out 5L of oil and topped up with 5L of Penrite 10W-50 full synthetic oil - no more smoke!

I now plan to run the engine on this cocktail for 5,000 km/3,000 miles, then dump it and refill with 8L of fresh Castrol Edge 5W-40 Titanium, full synthetic.
Will report back the results.

stiubhartach · #7 05-18-2016, 10:28 PM

My smoking problem ended immediately after the repairs.

If you are unsure where the smoke is coming from, you can check the intake manifold or CCV hose for oil.

Here's some links.

Oil in CCV hoses after replacing CCV - E46Fanatics

Can I use this (Oil Catch Tank) with the ESS TS ? - Page 10 - E46Fanatics

JokerElite · #8 10-05-2018, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stiubhartach

Think I have answered most of the questions, but I will be glad to elaborate if anyone needs more info. So to recap, if you have this issue, this is what I would do.

1) buy two new diaphragms with caps. You will break the caps getting them off.

2) remove the old ones and discard. A torn diaphragm will cause this problem too.

3 clean out all the gunk with carb cleaner. Try not to let it run down into the engine. It's not the end of the world though as its volatile and will evaporate out quickly while driving.

4)Make sure that the drain passage is draining. You can pour a little oil into it and see if it goes down. A pipe cleaner might be helpful.

5) clean out the hose that goes to the intake manifold. The fitting is a handy squeeze clip thing.

6) Reassemble. There is a vacuum nipple on the cap that goes no where. It was confusing to me.

7) I emphatically do NOT recommend ever using any stop leak or oil additive products in a tight tolerance engine like this one. The sealing components tend to gum up the important stuff I use only synthetic oil. I like Mobile One 0-40, but there are many good ones.

8) synthetic oil has amazing performance, but will find every possible leak point. That's just going to happen. But an oil leak doesnt hurt anything, other than your driveway. They are usually not worth fixing. They get fixed eventually during a serious repair.

Thanks for the good response to my post. Please report back if this works for you so that other owners can benefit from the feedback. Photos are always good too.

Is there supposed to be a hose connected to the CCV cap on a 2005 4.4i? The picture from pelican shows one (not where the arrow is) but it isn't like that on my car.

stiubhartach · #9 10-05-2018, 01:09 PM

>Is there supposed to be a hose connected to the CCV cap on a 2005 4.4i? The picture from pelican shows one (not where the arrow is) but it isn't like that on my car.

My 2005 4.4i didn’t have one. The nipple on the cap is actually missing.

You can do research on RealOEM to determine when the change occurred.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

JokerElite · #10 10-05-2018, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stiubhartach

>Is there supposed to be a hose connected to the CCV cap on a 2005 4.4i? The picture from pelican shows one (not where the arrow is) but it isn't like that on my car.

My 2005 4.4i didn’t have one. The nipple on the cap is actually missing.

You can do research on RealOEM to determine when the change occurred.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Strangely enough, my caps have the nipple. And coincidentally my build date is one day after yours!

Would torn diaphragms cause rough idle and stalling? This is actually the problem I was chasing when I noticed they were torn. New ones are on the way.