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#21
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LOL - thought I was the only one here that does that.
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2004 X5 3.0i Born 02/04 Delivered 03/04 |
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#22
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I just ordered a second URO regulator. I installed one in a back window earlier this year which is still working great, and not making any noises. The price is good so I decided to use another when my passenger window failed last month. I was impressed with the fit and finish, and I don't recall the country of manufacture, but it wasn't China so I was good with it.
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running 2012 35d Platingrau |
#23
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They break because the guides need and never get lubrication. Run left and right simultaneously you'll see the driver side will usually run 30-40% slower. A shot of Teflon dry window lube can speed up window 60% and of course drops the stress on all the parts equivalently.
We don't restrict the use of windows because when I notice the window goes up much slower than down it gets another shot of silicone or Teflon. 6
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#24
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- Another report on VDO window regulator.
- Installed Nov. 2019, almost 3 yrs later, still OK. - However, I hate this job of replacing win reg so much that I minimize its use, i.e., I avoid lowering the glass if I can. So: 1. No drive-through coffee! I stop at the shop and walk in for coffee, the old-school way lol. 2. At work, where I need to swipe a card to open the gate: so in order to swipte the card, I open the driver's door instead of lowering the glass. So far the VDO win regulator seems fine, nice and quiet. It is a good company (Continental-VDO), they just happen to use a factory in Taiwan to make it. The whole engineering thingy is bad anyway: a whole bunch of plastic pulleys and cables...eventually, something will fail. I still prefer the "scissor system" as used in Volvo, which is essentially bullet-proof, except for the cheap plastic sliding blocks ($5/each for Volvo sliding blocks). 3. On hwy, if I need fresh air, I just crack the LF glass down a few inches and also the RR glass down a bit to allow air to flow through. Anyway, VDO Price reasonable. - VDO WR51136 (for left front) = $85-$90 or so.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 08-17-2022 at 10:43 PM. |
#25
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Thanks for the update. I just did a full clip and regulator refresh on 3 of 4 windows this past winter. I was sick of paying for BMW parts that still failed within 4 years so I went with VDO as well. So far so good, but frankly I wouldn’t be surprised if they failed tomorrow. The left front door has a very distinct clatter when I close it that I’ve never been able to figure out.
To be fair I don’t avoid using the windows, especially between mid October and mid May when one can enjoy the breeze here in the Deep South. One of the problems though with having to redo these things too often, particularly as our cars age,is that the old plastic and glue fail on the door cards in some way, every time they come off now it seems. I did a full re-glue job on the front door cards last spring as well. They will need to come off this fall to ugrade the speakers and address an airbag cluster light and code implicating the front pax bag, and I’m already worried.
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
#26
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trying not to use windows at all
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I had window problems on my '86 S-10 during the first two years of ownership (bought it brand new), replacing the switches twice, and the driver's window track once. The last time, after the track & switch were installed, I never used that (or the other window) again, for the next seventeen years (but I'm sure the wife did, when she drove it, during its' last coupl'a years). Never wanted to chance it, at least on my part. I've since used windows on my succeeding cars (both crank-up and electric), but very sparingly, and now knowing the propensity for failure of the X5 parts, I'll probably never tempt fate. I'm sorta gentle on the door handles, too, and have never broken the inside door handles on my '09 HHR Panel (which is infamous for broken handles), so I must have a light touch on them. No broken parts makes me happy.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#27
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On my front window regs where they attach to the glass I replaced the bolt (through glass) that expands when tightened with a standard nut and bolt with nylon washers. The bolt has to be short enough or it will catch the inner door strengthening bar when lowered.
The windows now have a solid thunk feel to them when opening or closing. |
#28
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What glue are you using? What's the recommended glue to use on these door cards that can take some heat and won't fall apart since it does get pretty hot in the summer? Thanks.
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2004 X5 3.0i Born 02/04 Delivered 03/04 |
#29
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or https://www.jbweld.com/product/ultim...k-silicone-3oz https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...maker-3-35-oz/ Spread on a few thin "worms" or "pucks" of this and that sucker is never coming apart again.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#30
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I have been using JB Weld Plastic Bonder and am happy with how it holds. It’s got a Tan colored syringe.
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
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