EML and trifecta lights --- Need help troubleshooting

[jac]

Hi,

I had the transmission light come on and had some other codes which indicated a bad MAF, so I replaced it. That made the transmission light go away, and it has not come back since, but I now have other lights...

I now have the EML and trifecta lights (DSC, ABS & Brake lights). The EML causes the vehicle to limp along, it has absolutely no power when that sucker comes on.

Also, the car stalls randomly sometimes. It mostly does it when making a tight slow turn, but it has also stalled while not turning. Needless to say, I am not driving this thing around for pleasure! lol Just for troubleshooting...

The speed sensors were replaced on all wheels recently because I saw those lights come on once before, so I am pretty sure it is not the sensors.

I have two code readers: the bavauto code reader and the OBDLink LX with Torque Android software.

The bavauto reader gives me the following codes from page 19:

1. E4 - O2 Sensor Adaptation Limit, Cyl #4 to #6
2. E3 - O2 Sensor Adaptation Limit, Cyl #1 to #3
3. F2 - Mysfire Cyl #5
4. CA - 02 Sensor Control Limit, Cyl #1 to #3
5. D3 - Idle Control Valve Mechanically Stuck
6. Cb - O2 Sensor Control Limit, Cyl #4 to #6

The OBDLink reader gives me the following codes:

1. p1084 - Fuel Control Mixture Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
2. p1085 - Fuel Control Mixture Lean Bank 2 Sensor 1
3. p1500 - Idle Speed Control Valve Stuck Open
4. p0172 - Mixture Control System Too Rich Bank 1
5. p0175 - Mixture Control 2 System Too Rich Bank 2

I also used the built-in test functions in the cluster for the battery/alternator. When the car is off, the cluster reads the battery at 12.2 Volts. When I turn on the engine and vehicle is not moving, the cluster reports the voltage at 13.7-13.8 volts (headlights and A/C off). If I turn on the A/C and headlights (Xenon) with vehicle not moving, the cluster reports the voltage at 13.5-13.6, and I did notice a drop in RPMs as I turned on the A/C, it felt almost as if the car was going to stall though it did not actually stall. The battery is 4-5 years old. The last two lasted about this long, but those just died completely, this one seems to still be alright, at least that's what the tech at the "Batteries+" shop said two days ago.

The alternator was replaced about 2 years ago, but I'd like to rule it out somehow. Do the above rule it out? or do the above confirm it is not doing well? I have heard the voltage reported by the cluster test functions while the engine is running should be around 14.2 volts or so...

Where should I start? I do not want to continue throwing parts at this too blindly anymore...

The EML is kind of a new symptom. It just started showing up lately. The trifecta has been showing up off and on for some time.

Also, I get the above codes with either reader even when the EML is not lit up. Is there no code that is thrown when the EML is lit up? Or do I need some other tool to get to the EML diagnostic code? I have heard of GT1 but I don't know anyone that has access to it.

I was planning on starting with taking out the DISA valve and checking it (though I must say I have no clue if it could cause any of these issues). I know I replaced it once many years ago so it could be bad by now... I do not remember ever replacing/cleaning the ICV...

[CapeX5]

stop, think….Why the DISA? Your O2 sensors are screaming at you. Depending on when those were replaced, if at all, change them. Start with a clean slate

[Helihover]

And clean or replace the icv

[upallnight]

Reasons, why the 02 sensors are screaming at the OP, is not because they may be bad, but because the ICV is STUCK as pointed out by two different scanners. If the ICV is stuck in the closed position, less air will enter the intake so the mixture will always be rich. Change the ICV valve or clean it out so that when you shake it you can hear it rattle.

When you changed the MAF did you buy a SIEMENS MAF or some Wing Wang crap on eBay or Amazon. If you brought the Wing Wang junk, that could be part of the problem.

On a side note this is my 3700 posts. Woo Hoo

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by CapeX5

stop, think….Why the DISA? Your O2 sensors are screaming at you. Depending on when those were replaced, if at all, change them. Start with a clean slate

Chances that both 02 sensors out completely on both sides of the engine at the same time highly unlikely, something else is causing the problem.

[StephenVA]

D3 - Idle Control Valve Mechanically Stuck

This code is telling you the Idle Air control valave to not sending back any variation of voltage back to the DME from idle up.
Reasons: Unconnected? Wire broken? Clogged? or just held in by something?

Can you give us a hint of engine size and model year? I assume it is a 3.0 (Inline 6) based on your code scan list.

The engine is trying to keep running while seeing too lean in the rear cyl so it is sending full rich signal to the injectors. Look up stream in the intake side to find the issue.

[jac]

Thanks for all the helpful responses!

It is a 2001 3.0i, 215K miles. Sorry, I forgot to mention that! lol

Yeah, the new MAF is a cheap one. I guess I got what I paid for...

I am gonna go looking into the ICV and see if I spot anything there. If nothing, then I am gonna order the VDO/Siemens MAF from bavauto.

I cannot recall if/when the O2 sensors were replaced. I don't mind replacing the front ones, but I am not looking forward to replacing the rear ones.

[jfoj]

First, go to the Google Play store and get the OBDLink App, it is superior to Torque and since you already have the OBDLink interface the App is free.

Next, forget the O2 sensors for now, they are CLEARLY working otherwise you would not be getting Sensor/Adaptation Control Limits.

If you have the original MAF, hold on to it for now.

Also note the "Rich" indicators may be false.

You really need to Log the OBDII data stream so it is clear as to what is really going on.

Often the P1500 comes up when there is a massive air leak and the ICV cannot control the engine idle.

What work, if any was recently performed on this vehicle?

If you feel there may be any intake air leaks, smoke testing is the best and fastest way to find air leaks.

[jac]

Thanks! I do have the OBDLink app, and also the paid "Torque Pro" app. I threw away the old MAF. Bad move, I know...

Ok. I disassembled the intake, removed the ICV and cleaned the inside of the ICV. The inside was quite dirty. I did make sure it "rattled" after it was clean.

I inspected all the intake tubes, boots and hoses, starting at the intake muffler and all the way up to the ICV and throttle. All parts look good.

I am gonna go take it for a spin. How quickly should the trifecta go away if the issue is resolved? Right away or?

@jfoj: I bought the OBDLink LX very recently, so I have no clue how to log or what to log to help get some more troubleshooting data. Could you point me in the right direction?

The car had a bunch of work done a few months back when the indy replaced the oil pan gasket. He also replaced engine mounts, the oil filter housing gasket, a CV Boot (driver side), the steering pressure hose and I think something else in the steering system that had him remove the steering wheel (another separate post coming on that). The indy closed shop, dunno what happened.

[upallnight]

First off the trifecta of light is not an OBD II fault code. You need a BMW-specific software like BMW Scanner 1.4 or INPA in order to read these modules.

The trouble codes that you posted are OBD II trouble codes, they have nothing to do with the DSC/ABS/Brake light that are now on. Clear the code and see if any of the codes return.

As for the trifecta of light codes if you have a late BMW E53 with I-Drive you could have a bad actuator gear. Start the engine up and go for a ride until the trifecta of light come on. Park the X and before you shut off the engine, open the door and listen for a noise such as a plastic gear being stripped. If you hear that sound you need a new actuator or a new actuator gear.