Ball Joint Bolt

[DougPEX5]

All,
First time poster - long time lurker!
Bought a 2002 X5 4.4 in the spring of 2016, and have been slowly working on it. Using all the great info on this forum. Repairs to date: Valley Pan, CCV, All fluids, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, drive axle. Now for my problem.

The BMW was giving some high speed vibration when braking. Found the right thrust arm had quite a bit of movement, while the left I was unable to move.
Replacing the Thrust Arm and while I was there I decided to replace the ball joint. I broke the first bolt I tried to turn! Been soaking with PB Blaster for two days and will try to use an extractor soon.

Any suggestions?

[ahlem]

I've seen where the one side with access to the top has been drilled through and a hardened bolt and lock nut was used. I had that problem when I did mine and that was the ultimate solution. Other brands use bolt in ball joints as do circle track race cars so I didn't feel too concerned. It was a lot less expensive than replacing the whole outboard end.

[upallnight]

Should have used an impact on them bolts. Getting the bolts out is or was the easy part of this job. Getting the ball joint out is the hard part. Remove the remaining bolt and remove the balljoint. Once the ball joint is out you can go back and weld a nut to the broken bolt and use some heat to extract it. Or you can use some heat and a stud extractor to remove the broken bolt.

I wouldn't try drilling the broken bolt out now as you can just mess up the threads with the drill and you will end up replacing the front entire front hub support.

[Scott ZHP]

Been there, I feel your pain.

It's going to be *much* easier to remove the knuckle and tackle this off the X5.
I centerpunched the stub, EXACTLY in the center, then used a set of left handed bits to drill increasingly larger holes in the stub; I was able to eventually back the remnant out with an extractor and a pick. Cleaned up the threads with a tap.

I'm a decent welder, and there's no way I could weld anything to the stub left in mine, it sheared at an angle and half of it was below the surface of the drilling in the knuckle.

[Lamby]

I use a angle grinder to cut out the ears (bolt holes) then cut out the spindle and ball joint front the housing. Then, I used a dremel with cutting discs to VERY carefully cut the housing from inside the ball joint housing. Some people think I am MAD doing this and takes time. But.. I am decent with a grinder and no damage was done to the knuckle if you are careful. Mine had rusted in for 10 years in damp England so they where almost welded as part of the knuckle.

On another note, I did them again last year, this time it was so much easier however it was cold so I used a blow torch to heat the knuckle up then with a couple of bangs with the 9 lb short handle hammer, came out.

Knuckle off is probably the best solution.

[keduMINI]

Originally Posted by upallnight

1) Should [use] an impact [for remaining bolt]...
2) Remove the remaining bolt and remove the balljoint. Once the ball joint is out you can...

+1 on the point above, and then do the following...

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

1) ...remove the knuckle and tackle this off the X5.
2) ...centerpunched the stub, EXACTLY in the center, then used a set of left handed bits to drill increasingly larger holes in the stub...

[DougPEX5]

Thanks for the advice everyone. The Midwest of US is not kind on the X5 due to the snow &
road salt this time of year. I was reluctant to pull the knuckle off, because I'm lazy, but I think it's unanimous that it's the best way to go from here. I will start with the impact on the remaining bolt at it's lowest setting. Been spraying penetrating lubricant on both of the bolts to ease final removals. I don't want to break another bolt. I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully I can get some time this weekend.

[bcredliner]

Hate it when that happens. Good luck!

[Scott ZHP]

Which one sheared, the one that's drilled through, or the one that's blind?

There's just enough room for the one that's drilled through to fit a half-height hardened nut on the top side and still clear the halfshaft.

[DougPEX5]

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

Which one sheared, the one that's drilled through, or the one that's blind?

There's just enough room for the one that's drilled through to fit a half-height hardened nut on the top side and still clear the halfshaft.

It's the bolt that goes all the way through with just a thread or so out the top.
Looks like enough room for a full size nut to me, but that's with the wheel unloaded. I'm sure clearance will change considerably with weight on the wheel.

Plan of attack this weekend after it's on the bench.
1. Short Prayer
2. Reverse drill bill small hole
3. Easy out
4. Weld nut on top side of bolt protruding through top of knuckle and try to remove bolt
5. Drill out and re thread.
6. Drill through and install a new 10.9 bolt and 1/2 size nut.