P code expert?? What's the trim "system"?

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

I feel like a got a "Shellacking" for showing my ignorance.....

Still very much appreciate the guidance.

Don't feel bad, that's the way Killcrap treats everybody.

[kevinkay]

I had the dealer "flash" the engine computer DME, he said it flashed very quick so he did not think anything was really updated or changed. (of course they did not let me watch). It probabley re-set the adaptation valves with a flash??

My "service engine soon" light returned, same P1191

my adaptation values:
Bank 1 Additive .06 ms
Bank 2 Additive .04ms
Bank 1 Multiplicative 4.8%
Bank 2 Multiplicative 7.9%

I might have a faulty valve cover gasket?

THANKS!

[upallnight]

I think your problem is related to why your fuel system doesn't hold the pressure once the fuel pump stops running.

Did you have the hard start problem when you bought the X or did it start after a couple of months/years of ownership?

[kevinkay]

hard start only on warm engine first noticed last year after 11 years.

Can i verify that on the fuel filter:
"in" is the black line that comes from the electric fuel pump
"rtn" is the blue line that goes to the fuel tank on the drivers side

and then the other blue line goes on to feed the fuel rail

TAHNKS!

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

hard start only on warm engine first noticed last year after 11 years.

Can i verify that on the fuel filter:
"in" is the black line that comes from the electric fuel pump
"rtn" is the blue line that goes to the fuel tank on the drivers side

and then the other blue line goes on to feed the fuel rail

TAHNKS!

Sorry can't help you there because I don't remember what the colors were when I did mine.

[upallnight]

I knew of a former X owner who installed his filter backward. When he started the engine and revved the engine the fuel pressure would go down instead of going up.

[kevinkay]

that didn't happen with me.... but perplexed why there is a 'return" at the filter and not at the fuel rail. In my case, when I loose pressure when the car/pump is off - that trapped air has to be then pushed out through the injectors??

So adaptation values are how much FUEL is added at idle and then
the multiplier during acceleration??

my multi in bank 2 almost at 8% exceeds the limit? Well then why doesn't the DME just beef up the additive and tone down the multi??

my adaptation values:
Bank 1 Additive .06 ms
Bank 2 Additive .04ms
Bank 1 Multiplicative 4.8%
Bank 2 Multiplicative 7.9%

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

that didn't happen with me.... but perplexed why there is a 'return" at the filter and not at the fuel rail. In my case, when I loose pressure when the car/pump is off - that trapped air has to be then pushed out through the injectors??

So adaptation values are how much FUEL is added at idle and then
the multiplier during acceleration??

my multi in bank 2 almost at 8% exceeds the limit? Well then why doesn't the DME just beef up the additive and tone down the multi??

my adaptation values:
Bank 1 Additive .06 ms
Bank 2 Additive .04ms
Bank 1 Multiplicative 4.8%
Bank 2 Multiplicative 7.9%

The fuel regulator is built in with the fuel filter and not at the fuel rail as in previous design, that's why the return line is at the fuel filter and not the fuel rail.

[80stech]

Kevinkay , have you checked the vacuum line that goes to the regulator on the fuel filter. It could be leaking vacuum causing a vacuum leak and a rich mixture, or if the regulator diaphragm is leaking could cause extra fuel to be delivered through the vacuum line. As far as the pressure loss after shut off, if you could install an inline shut of valve (or even a check valve)before and/or after the filter you could try to narrow down exactly where the fuel is leaking back. Pinching off lines sometimes works but not so dependable. What software are you using to check your adaptation numbers ?

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

I feel like a got a "Shellacking" for showing my ignorance.....

Still very much appreciate the guidance.

Uncalled for, I wouldn't have taken the high road. I use only basic diagnostic stuff and get along just fine and my bet is I am part of the majority. I do all my own work and would have to spend a week figuring out how to check all that stuff. You don't need to spend thousands of dollars on equipment to do some troubleshooting.

As an example, it doesn't always work but you can spray carb fluid or propane around hoses and intake and if it reaches a vacuum leak the idle will momentarily change. Key here is it is only one bank so it already narrowed down some.

Let's back up. Put the codes aside. What are the symptoms? Rough idle, poor acceleration, hard start etc. ? How long has it been going on? Has it been getting worse. Were the codes there before you did the work you mentioned?