Window still not working after new regulator!!!

[Shel]

Ok will deffo have a look into the relay. As it sure the motors are fine.


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[crystalworks]

^I was going to suggest that as well after your response. Test the motor on the battery (or any +12v power supply) and see if it spins in both directions.

[Shel]

Okay. Removed the motor, tested both new and old ones with a direct feed to the battery and they're fine.

Got a voltage tester on the terminals. -12v and +12v when the buttons are pressed.

Can't be a loose connection at the terminal otherwise it wouldn't have the up function.

Removed the harness from the plug in the door trunking and a tiny bit of corrosion.
Cleaned it out with contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Still no difference. -12v and +12v present here on the tester too.

Any ideas guys?! Driving me mad now.


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[wpoll]

Corrosion may still have a role to play in this. A voltage may still measure 12v with a meter but as the meter doesn't draw much current, it doesn't reveal the high resistance of a corroded connector. The high current draw of the motor however causes the applied voltage to drop below a level where the motor can run.

Have you checked the connector on the door pillar? Remove the battery connection (negative) before disconnecting the door connector, otherwise you may trigger an SRS fault.

P.S. did the odo come right again at some point?

[Shel]

Is access to the door pillar connector behind the plastic panel that houses the seatbelt?
I think I'll try connect the motor up and get a voltage test with it hooked up.


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[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Shel

Is access to the door pillar connector behind the plastic panel that houses the seatbelt?
I think I'll try connect the motor up and get a voltage test with it hooked up.


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Good plan to check the voltage with the motor hooked up.

The door connector is on the exterior of the pillar, behind the flexi rubber boot. Boot pops off and there's a 6mm bolt securing the connector.

[Shel]

Yeah I already got to that. That is the part that had two corroded pins. But the pins for the window motor control were fine.


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[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by Shel

Okay. Removed the motor, tested both new and old ones with a direct feed to the battery and they're fine.

Got a voltage tester on the terminals. -12v and +12v when the buttons are pressed.

Can't be a loose connection at the terminal otherwise it wouldn't have the up function.

Removed the harness from the plug in the door trunking and a tiny bit of corrosion.
Cleaned it out with contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Still no difference. -12v and +12v present here on the tester too.

Any ideas guys?! Driving me mad now.


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What was the outcome of the window relay check/inspection?

[Shel]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

What was the outcome of the window relay check/inspection?

Relay is going to be on the inspection list tomorrow. I'm guessing it's behind the fuse board in the glove box as that's where I can hear the clicking.

When testing the terminals up button gives a -12v instantly. Pressing down button voltage goes to 1 then 8 and then 12. Mind you it only touches 1v and 8v a microsecond before sitting on +12v, but pressing up it goes straight to -12v. (If that makes any sense)



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[sgrice]

I am confused about what terminals you are getting +/- 12 volts. Are the "terminals" at the motor, or the window switch in the front or rear door?

If I understand you correctly, you can apply external 12 volts to the motor, and it operates. Reverse polarity, and the motor goes in the other direction. Is that correct? The other obvious question is whether you are doing that with the motor connected to the regulator or not. Obviously, if the motor operates as above when not connected to the regulator, but doesn't work when connected to the regulator, then your regulator is frozen/broken. On the other hand, if everything goes up and down when external power is directly applied to the motor terminals, then as I stated my money is on a bad relay switch in the general module. The general module is located behind the glove box. You will need to take it out to check/fix the relay. If you are really good with electronics, have a replacement relay available, and know how to desolder and resolder electronics (a desoldering suction gun would be really helpful), you could have a go at fixing it yourself. I chose to send it to the person (Scott) I referenced in post #20. In my case it cost about $100 and took about 3 days. While the general module is out of the car you windows, wipers, and remote locking (and maybe one or two other items - I can't remember entirely) will not work. Of course, Scott is in the US and you are in the UK, so costs and time will be more. Not sure if there is a similar repair service available in the UK.

Hope that helps.