Window still not working after new regulator!!!

[Shel]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

What was the outcome of the window relay check/inspection?

Relay is going to be on the inspection list tomorrow. I'm guessing it's behind the fuse board in the glove box as that's where I can hear the clicking.

When testing the terminals up button gives a -12v instantly. Pressing down button voltage goes to 1 then 8 and then 12. Mind you it only touches 1v and 8v a microsecond before sitting on +12v, but pressing up it goes straight to -12v. (If that makes any sense)



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[sgrice]

I am confused about what terminals you are getting +/- 12 volts. Are the "terminals" at the motor, or the window switch in the front or rear door?

If I understand you correctly, you can apply external 12 volts to the motor, and it operates. Reverse polarity, and the motor goes in the other direction. Is that correct? The other obvious question is whether you are doing that with the motor connected to the regulator or not. Obviously, if the motor operates as above when not connected to the regulator, but doesn't work when connected to the regulator, then your regulator is frozen/broken. On the other hand, if everything goes up and down when external power is directly applied to the motor terminals, then as I stated my money is on a bad relay switch in the general module. The general module is located behind the glove box. You will need to take it out to check/fix the relay. If you are really good with electronics, have a replacement relay available, and know how to desolder and resolder electronics (a desoldering suction gun would be really helpful), you could have a go at fixing it yourself. I chose to send it to the person (Scott) I referenced in post #20. In my case it cost about $100 and took about 3 days. While the general module is out of the car you windows, wipers, and remote locking (and maybe one or two other items - I can't remember entirely) will not work. Of course, Scott is in the US and you are in the UK, so costs and time will be more. Not sure if there is a similar repair service available in the UK.

Hope that helps.

[Shel]

Originally Posted by sgrice

I am confused about what terminals you are getting +/- 12 volts. Are the "terminals" at the motor, or the window switch in the front or rear door?

If I understand you correctly, you can apply external 12 volts to the motor, and it operates. Reverse polarity, and the motor goes in the other direction. Is that correct? The other obvious question is whether you are doing that with the motor connected to the regulator or not. Obviously, if the motor operates as above when not connected to the regulator, but doesn't work when connected to the regulator, then your regulator is frozen/broken. On the other hand, if everything goes up and down when external power is directly applied to the motor terminals, then as I stated my money is on a bad relay switch in the general module. The general module is located behind the glove box. You will need to take it out to check/fix the relay. If you are really good with electronics, have a replacement relay available, and know how to desolder and resolder electronics (a desoldering suction gun would be really helpful), you could have a go at fixing it yourself. I chose to send it to the person (Scott) I referenced in post #20. In my case it cost about $100 and took about 3 days. While the general module is out of the car you windows, wipers, and remote locking (and maybe one or two other items - I can't remember entirely) will not work. Of course, Scott is in the US and you are in the UK, so costs and time will be more. Not sure if there is a similar repair service available in the UK.

Hope that helps.

Where I'm testing the voltages is the contacts inside the plug for the motor. I've yet to test it with it plugged into the motor. Can't see a way to do it as it's a sealed connection.
I've tested the old motor and new one when they're off the regulator. Same problem. But directly to the battery and they're fine.



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