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  #21  
Old 04-29-2017, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Like I posted before, the tool is too small for the CV axle to fit through. The axle nut is M27 but what is the actual outside diameter of the threaded portion of the CV joint??? Bet you it's a little bigger than 29.8mm...
Seriously, you need to look up definition of nut/bolt thread diameter.
The E53 axle M27 nut means the very outer edge of axle's threaded portion is 27mm.

If the tool spec is correct (30-mm), then the E53 axle's threaded portion should go through.

The ultimate test: some forum members should test it and report back with photos.

BTW, there are different mfg's, so you need to measure your own tool to see the diameter of the hole and see why it didn't fit.

I have done 100's of axle CV joints, and I used hammer and drift too, I don't like that technique.

The idea of this thread is to share new tool ideas, not for people coming here and bash others.

Some people "fix cars" using simple tools b/c all they care is oil change and brake work, they don't own anything fancy simply b/c of the costs of special tools involved. This tool is a good example that a professional tool can be had for cheap.
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  #22  
Old 04-29-2017, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
...Perhaps I should just let you guys buy the tools and let you find out for yourself that the tool won't work on our truck...
- You should speak with data, what is your tool photo? Dimension?

A photo is worth 1000 words.

PS: So, even if this tool does not fit the X5 (I doubt this is the case, I think it will fit), it fits other sedans, and many people have other vehicles too.
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  #23  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:01 PM
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Published data...

OK,

Let's look at published data by GKN-Lobro.
GS = Gear Side = INNER CV Joint
WS = Wheel Side = OUTER CV Joint

BMW E53 X5:
---> OUTER CV O.D. = 92 mm, thread is 27-mm type.

Volvo XC90 (2003-2015 series):
---> OUTER CV O.D. = 95 mm, thread is 10-mm type.
(Ignore the 10-mm thing b/c XC90 uses the small bolt, not a nut, at the end of axle).



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  #24  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
- You should speak with data, what is your tool photo? Dimension?

A photo is worth 1000 words.

PS: So, even if this tool does not fit the X5 (I doubt this is the case, I think it will fit), it fits other sedans, and many people have other vehicles too.
The hole in my tool measured out to be 29.75 on a digital caliper. This is the X5 forum, that is why I mentioned that it will not work on our X.

Like in the building trade, a 2x4 is not 2" x 4" but is actually 1.625" x 3.625". 2x4 is the nominal dimensions not the actual dimension same with 2" round steel tubing or pipe.

Here's a website that tells you what diameter hole you need for a M27 bolt to be in order for it to fit.

Mechanical: Clearance holes for Metric Screws

You will not use the tight fit since you do not want the CV joint to be stuck in the tools. You will use the "Free fit" so that the cv joint can be pulled out. As you can see you need a hole that is 32mm which is a lot bigger than 30 or 29.75.

If you don't want to believe me that just fine with me. Perhaps I'm just going to stop posting on this forum.
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  #25  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Seriously, you need to look up definition of nut/bolt thread diameter.
The E53 axle M27 nut means the very outer edge of axle's threaded portion is 27mm.

If the tool spec is correct (30-mm), then the E53 axle's threaded portion should go through.

The ultimate test: some forum members should test it and report back with photos.

BTW, there are different mfg's, so you need to measure your own tool to see the diameter of the hole and see why it didn't fit.

I have done 100's of axle CV joints, and I used hammer and drift too, I don't like that technique.

The idea of this thread is to share new tool ideas, not for people coming here and bash others.

Some people "fix cars" using simple tools b/c all they care is oil change and brake work, they don't own anything fancy simply b/c of the costs of special tools involved. This tool is a good example that a professional tool can be had for cheap.
That's why I posted that the tool you mention won't work on our X. I have the tool and tried the tool and it didn't work. You don't have the tool and you didn't try the tool and yet you want to argue that I am wrong and you are right. You need to look up what are the actual dimensions of a M27 bolt are, and not what you think the M27 represents and the minimum hole that a M27 can free fit.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Like I said, this tool looks good, and I'm glad to have it in hand for whatever I might need it for on my various cars.

But it would help to know definitively if it will fit. You say in a later post that you tried and it did not work, but ...

If the axle nut is M27 (is it?) then the outer (major) diameter of the threaded portion will be pretty close to 26.97mm. But then there is a splined section in-board of the threads. This section looks to be bigger than the threaded portion, and possibly bigger than 30mm.

I can see how this tool would fit over the M27 threads, but then hit the splined section, and not leave enough of the threads exposed to get the nut on and make it work.

Does this sound accurate? Upallnight, did you mean "splined" portion when you said "threaded"?

I'll be ready with the hammer and brass drift if needed, but always prefer the lower impact solutions if possible, especially when bearings are involved.
I posted a link to minimum hole sizes required for a M27 bolt. You don't want an exact fit or else you never get the joint out of the tool once you pull the joint into the tool. You need what is known in the industry as a Free Fit, which allows the cv joint to come out of the tool. You would drill a hole a little bit bigger if you wanted to take something apart instead of the actual size as the fastener securing the part. So if you have a 1/4 bolt, you will drill a hole that is 5/16 or larger so that you can take the bolt back out.

The spline portion of the CV joint will not fit into that 30mm hole.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD

Last edited by upallnight; 04-29-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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  #27  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:36 PM
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OK,

Everyone has his own opinion. I believe you, but I just want to state the facts.

The definition of a metric bolt diameter is the measurement from crest to crest (= Major Diameter) in the photo below.

So an M27 thread has crest-to-crest diameter of 27 mm.

I do not have an axle lying around, but I have an M27 BMW nut, and I just measured the I.D. of this nut = 25 mm (I.D. of this nut = Minor Diameter), this confirms to me that the threaded portion of the X5 axle is 27 mm.

Anyway, the definitive test is for someone to play with this toy and report back. For $20, what do you have to lose (other than $20)?

PS: upallnight you even posted on bimmerfest a year ago that you used this very tool to remove the CV joint, I am confused! Here you go:

replacing outer cv joint boot on the front of x5 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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  #28  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:47 PM
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I used that tool to pop off CV joints on other cars to reboot them, but when I went to use it on my X I found out that the CV joint would not fit the tool. I just assume like you that you could use the tool on our X.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #29  
Old 04-29-2017, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
...If the axle nut is M27 (is it?) then the outer (major) diameter of the threaded portion will be pretty close to 26.97mm. But then there is a splined section in-board of the threads. This section looks to be bigger than the threaded portion, and possibly bigger than 30mm...
oldskewel,

Correct, the nut is M27.
I took a random photo of X5 E53 axle from the web to show the anatomy.

The threaded section will go through the 30-mm hole and the splined section will certainly get stuck, but you can easily re-position the tool!

Anyway, someone needs to play with this tool on the X5 and report back...
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  #30  
Old 04-29-2017, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
The hole in my tool measured out to be 29.75 on a digital caliper. This is the X5 forum, that is why I mentioned that it will not work on our X.

Like in the building trade, a 2x4 is not 2" x 4" but is actually 1.625" x 3.625". 2x4 is the nominal dimensions not the actual dimension same with 2" round steel tubing or pipe.

Here's a website that tells you what diameter hole you need for a M27 bolt to be in order for it to fit.

Mechanical: Clearance holes for Metric Screws

You will not use the tight fit since you do not want the CV joint to be stuck in the tools. You will use the "Free fit" so that the cv joint can be pulled out. As you can see you need a hole that is 32mm which is a lot bigger than 30 or 29.75.

If you don't want to believe me that just fine with me. Perhaps I'm just going to stop posting on this forum.
I hope you do keep posting, since I often gain a lot of insight from your posts.

But here, the clearance hole thing is not relevant. An M27 screw will have a major diameter of about 26.97mm. It will fit in a 27.00mm hole if allowed to align itself. A 28mm hole will seem huge. A 29.75mm hole is gigantic. Definitely not a problem for the M27 threaded portion.

A clearance hole (again, not relevant here) is the diameter of a hole that will clear the screw but not clear the head. So if it is a 36 mm nut, technically anything from about 27mm to 36mm would work as a clearance hole. But then for practical reasons of binding/alignment you want a little more. If you had multiple holes that all had to line up, you'd want something bigger than the minimum to provide a tolerance for that. But here, there is one hole, one screw, and it is practically self-aligning. 29.75mm is plenty to clear the threaded section.

From looking at the photo cn90 provided, it looks like the splined section will definitely be a problem. To make this tool work, first, it may only be possible to get one or two turns of threads on, and then it would need to be re-positioned frequently. I can believe that maybe what looks to be feasible but difficult might actually be impossible due to threads being beveled, or other minor factors, so that by the time threading it on starts to load up and apply force on the joint, it is already hitting the splined section before anything can move. If true, then it would be useless.

So I can definitely believe that you tried this exact (clone) tool and it would not work. Thanks for reporting that.

But maybe foolish optimisim makes me think that maybe trying a little harder may have made it possible. How many times is it reported on here that it is impossible to remove the rear suspension lower ball joints with a PepBoys rental bushing press? (answer = everywhere, and it is commonly understood to be impossible) Except that I did it myself. Not that I would recommend it to anyone, or do it again myself ...
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