DIY: CV Joint Removal Tool anyone?

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by cn90

- Not everyone has air hammer, bench vise etc.

- If you read amazon reviews, it is very good:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Props...dp/B00NSEWZZI/

If you are not willing to invest in tools to fix your cars, you shouldn't be fixing cars. I saw more screw up by people who don't have the right tools to work on their cars. They end up rounding nuts because they got a crappy set of twelve points sockets instead of a decent set of six points sockets. After a while, they get frustrated and start breaking things when they should have just brought the car to a professional mechanic.

[cn90]

Originally Posted by upallnight

If you are not willing to invest in tools to fix your cars, you shouldn't be fixing cars...

I think you got it wrong. So you think the tool I listed in the original post is not professional tool?
It is professional tool, but it is much more affordable now, at $20, it is cheap!

I have a lot tools. I have fixed cars for 25 years and have never needed air chisel (I have used it but I don't own it).

My original post is to mention a tool mechanics use to remove the OUTER CV joint, then people come in and show off their air hammer, special tool etc. Seriously, this CV tool is professional tool used by mechanics all over the world! Just go to youtube and see it...

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by cn90

I think you got it wrong. So you think the tool I listed in the original post is not professional tool?
It is professional tool, but it is much more affordable now, at $20, it is cheap!

I have a lot tools. I have fixed cars for 25 years and have never needed air chisel (I have used it but I don't own it).

My original post is to mention a tool mechanics use to remove the OUTER CV joint, then people come in and show off their air hammer, special tool etc. Seriously, this CV tool is professional tool used by mechanics all over the world! Just go to youtube and see it...

Mine arrived this afternoon, amazingly. It look pretty well made, regardless of price. Good finish. Good fit. Plenty of steel. Measurements were as shown in the ad. Since bore diameter was mentioned as an issue, I calipered that at 29.8mm (vs. the 30mm listed, but this was a dial caliper in inches that I then converted to mm).

I don't own an air chisel either. I've probably been stuck on projects where I wished I had one, but at the end of it all found a less destructive solution that still got the job done.

BTW, I bought it from eBay seller mlautotools, it was item 262857000603, but that has now sold out.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Mine arrived this afternoon, amazingly. It look pretty well made, regardless of price. Good finish. Good fit. Plenty of steel. Measurements were as shown in the ad. Since bore diameter was mentioned as an issue, I calipered that at 29.8mm (vs. the 30mm listed, but this was a dial caliper in inches that I then converted to mm).

I don't own an air chisel either. I've probably been stuck on projects where I wished I had one, but at the end of it all found a less destructive solution that still got the job done.

BTW, I bought it from eBay seller mlautotools, it was item 262857000603, but that has now sold out.

Like I posted before, the tool is too small for the CV axle to fit through. The axle nut is M27 but what is the actual outside diameter of the threaded portion of the CV joint??? Bet you it's a little bigger than 29.8mm.

Needed to replace the lower ball joint on the Soccer mom's minivan. With my Air hammer I had the ball joint out of the knuckle in no time at all. A lot less swearing.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Like I posted before, the tool is too small for the CV axle to fit through. The axle nut is M27 but what is the actual outside diameter of the threaded portion of the CV joint??? Bet you it's a little bigger than 29.8mm...

Like I said, this tool looks good, and I'm glad to have it in hand for whatever I might need it for on my various cars.

But it would help to know definitively if it will fit. You say in a later post that you tried and it did not work, but ...

If the axle nut is M27 (is it?) then the outer (major) diameter of the threaded portion will be pretty close to 26.97mm. But then there is a splined section in-board of the threads. This section looks to be bigger than the threaded portion, and possibly bigger than 30mm.

I can see how this tool would fit over the M27 threads, but then hit the splined section, and not leave enough of the threads exposed to get the nut on and make it work.

Does this sound accurate? Upallnight, did you mean "splined" portion when you said "threaded"?

I'll be ready with the hammer and brass drift if needed, but always prefer the lower impact solutions if possible, especially when bearings are involved.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Like I said, this tool looks good, and I'm glad to have it in hand for whatever I might need it for on my various cars.

But it would help to know definitively if it will fit. You say in a later post that you tried and it did not work, but ...

If the axle nut is M27 (is it?) then the outer (major) diameter of the threaded portion will be pretty close to 26.97mm. But then there is a splined section in-board of the threads. This section looks to be bigger than the threaded portion, and possibly bigger than 30mm.

I can see how this tool would fit over the M27 threads, but then hit the splined section, and not leave enough of the threads exposed to get the nut on and make it work.

Does this sound accurate? Upallnight, did you mean "splined" portion when you said "threaded"?

I'll be ready with the hammer and brass drift if needed, but always prefer the lower impact solutions if possible, especially when bearings are involved.

I posted a link to minimum hole sizes required for a M27 bolt. You don't want an exact fit or else you never get the joint out of the tool once you pull the joint into the tool. You need what is known in the industry as a Free Fit, which allows the cv joint to come out of the tool. You would drill a hole a little bit bigger if you wanted to take something apart instead of the actual size as the fastener securing the part. So if you have a 1/4 bolt, you will drill a hole that is 5/16 or larger so that you can take the bolt back out.

The spline portion of the CV joint will not fit into that 30mm hole.

[cn90]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

...If the axle nut is M27 (is it?) then the outer (major) diameter of the threaded portion will be pretty close to 26.97mm. But then there is a splined section in-board of the threads. This section looks to be bigger than the threaded portion, and possibly bigger than 30mm...

oldskewel,

Correct, the nut is M27.
I took a random photo of X5 E53 axle from the web to show the anatomy.

The threaded section will go through the 30-mm hole and the splined section will certainly get stuck, but you can easily re-position the tool!

Anyway, someone needs to play with this tool on the X5 and report back...

[cn90]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Like I posted before, the tool is too small for the CV axle to fit through. The axle nut is M27 but what is the actual outside diameter of the threaded portion of the CV joint??? Bet you it's a little bigger than 29.8mm...

Seriously, you need to look up definition of nut/bolt thread diameter.
The E53 axle M27 nut means the very outer edge of axle's threaded portion is 27mm.

If the tool spec is correct (30-mm), then the E53 axle's threaded portion should go through.

The ultimate test: some forum members should test it and report back with photos.

BTW, there are different mfg's, so you need to measure your own tool to see the diameter of the hole and see why it didn't fit.

I have done 100's of axle CV joints, and I used hammer and drift too, I don't like that technique.

The idea of this thread is to share new tool ideas, not for people coming here and bash others.

Some people "fix cars" using simple tools b/c all they care is oil change and brake work, they don't own anything fancy simply b/c of the costs of special tools involved. This tool is a good example that a professional tool can be had for cheap.

[cn90]

OK,

Let's look at published data by GKN-Lobro.
GS = Gear Side = INNER CV Joint
WS = Wheel Side = OUTER CV Joint

BMW E53 X5:
---> OUTER CV O.D. = 92 mm, thread is 27-mm type.

Volvo XC90 (2003-2015 series):
---> OUTER CV O.D. = 95 mm, thread is 10-mm type.
(Ignore the 10-mm thing b/c XC90 uses the small bolt, not a nut, at the end of axle).



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[upallnight]

Originally Posted by cn90

Seriously, you need to look up definition of nut/bolt thread diameter.
The E53 axle M27 nut means the very outer edge of axle's threaded portion is 27mm.

If the tool spec is correct (30-mm), then the E53 axle's threaded portion should go through.

The ultimate test: some forum members should test it and report back with photos.

BTW, there are different mfg's, so you need to measure your own tool to see the diameter of the hole and see why it didn't fit.

I have done 100's of axle CV joints, and I used hammer and drift too, I don't like that technique.

The idea of this thread is to share new tool ideas, not for people coming here and bash others.

Some people "fix cars" using simple tools b/c all they care is oil change and brake work, they don't own anything fancy simply b/c of the costs of special tools involved. This tool is a good example that a professional tool can be had for cheap.

That's why I posted that the tool you mention won't work on our X. I have the tool and tried the tool and it didn't work. You don't have the tool and you didn't try the tool and yet you want to argue that I am wrong and you are right. You need to look up what are the actual dimensions of a M27 bolt are, and not what you think the M27 represents and the minimum hole that a M27 can free fit.