key remote not working

[stackz]

yeah, I'm going to sit back as well for a minute. I'm almost to the point where I want to cut my main key open but not quite. I just cant make myself do it yet.

If I was better at soldering I'd buy another panasonic battery off ebay and just solder it in place in the spare key I've already ripped open.

half of me thinks maybe I just havent gone through the relearn process correctly for the spare key...even though...because it will crank the car and lock/unlock the car...doesnt that mean its already sync'd with the car?

if that does NOT mean that, then I might just be an idiot with the relearn process. I've tried some of the ones (like the one I posted above at the end of the youtube video) but none of them have worked. that might be my own fault though. what exactly is key position 1 and have I been properly stopping on it? am I hitting the right buttons for the right amount of time?

I dont know at this point. I remember reading one thread where the guy did the relearn like 50 times before it worked.

practice makes perfect? anyone have known working procedures they can post for me?

one very last question. when a relearn procedures states "for working key" does that mean a key that currently operates remotely, or just for a key that will currently unlock and start the car??

[williamx5]

I was actually thinking you may want to do the remote relearn for each key... I'll explain... for the relearn process to register all your working keys, you need to do them all at the same time... key initialization (new from the dealer) is different than relearn for the remote...

This is what I did exactly:

Close all doors and lock vehicle with center console button.


Any key that will start the X! Put in ignition and turn to run, but don't start! Pause for one-one thousands. Turn off and remove key.

Push and hold UNLOCK button on remote, press LOCK button three timesat normal pace! (Don't rush it!)

Release UNLOCK button... If this worked, your locks will cycle...

Put key in ignition and start X... only that key will work for your remote... test it... if that worked, you can add others or just stay with that... too add others, do same thing but do all the keys you want, up to five, at the same program time...

I'm still tired, so please don't yell at me if I flubbed any of this up!

Cheers!

[stackz]

hmm well that didnt work. I tried it six times. I'm wondering if the spare key is just completely dead and not working period as far as the remote is concerned. it still is definitely recognized by the car itself since it will crank it up just fine.

I wonder if it can be broken for the remote but still be acceptable by the car?

kinda funny, went to drive the car this morning and still using the main key. I always out of reflex still hit the button when I walk up to it and it did unlock the car and then fell silent again. but it unlocked the car with the u-pull FZV still in it as I got lazy. so maybe that isnt set to any particular card code after all?

[wpoll]

Yes, keys can still allow the car to run but the remote may be dead.

The security chip in the key (which allows the car to start/run) is totally seperate from the remote unlock/lock in the key.

Sounds like the remote section in the key is intermittant - maybe a broken pcb track or something in the fob. Keys get dropped a lot and this can damage delicate circuitry.

[williamx5]

Originally Posted by stackz

hmm well that didnt work. I tried it six times. I'm wondering if the spare key is just completely dead and not working period as far as the remote is concerned. it still is definitely recognized by the car itself since it will crank it up just fine.

I wonder if it can be broken for the remote but still be acceptable by the car?

kinda funny, went to drive the car this morning and still using the main key. I always out of reflex still hit the button when I walk up to it and it did unlock the car and then fell silent again. but it unlocked the car with the u-pull FZV still in it as I got lazy. so maybe that isnt set to any particular card code after all?

Well, I think it is a tempermental key fob... The sure fire way to determine this little fact is to spend the $150 for a key... I think I paid $152 and change for my new 2006 key... Did the program once and all is right with the World... You would have a bunch of spares that will still allow you to access entry and start, but no remote unlock... I'll be buying a new key for my 2001 6MT vehicle when it's done... I have four keys and one valet for it still... Odd to have all the keys for it after all these years... No remote functions work on any of them though...

Good luck!!!

Cheers!!

[stackz]

I think before I go that route I will probably just go ahead and cut open my main key and see if a new battery will help it. cant hurt at this point and I'll just glue the other key back together and use it while I do this.

you get your key from online or the dealer? I thought the dealer wanted like $300 for a key?

[williamx5]

Originally Posted by stackz

I think before I go that route I will probably just go ahead and cut open my main key and see if a new battery will help it. cant hurt at this point and I'll just glue the other key back together and use it while I do this.

you get your key from online or the dealer? I thought the dealer wanted like $300 for a key?

I tried that a couple times... I didn't have much luck, so I searched for a good source to get keys... Here is our part number for just the one remote fob key... Realoem says it is about $130... I think they stopped updating the prices for the older vehicles... It's always a ballpark number anyway...

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

And then you put the part number in here and voila! I do apologize... I thought my total price was $152 and change... Here it's $153 before shipping... Shipping is about $7.80ish... Maybe the 2006 key is cheaper?! LOL!!

https://thebmwminipartstore.com/part...&siteid=218365

Good luck with the battery replacement!!

Cheers!!

[Qsilver7]

The remote keys operate THREE different systems in the vehicle...which area all independent of each other but do work in conjunction with each other is some small capacity more than just being located in the remote keys:

1. FBZV/FZV - remote keyless entry/central locking (transmits data 1-way).
2. DWA - anti theft alarm siren system (transmits data 1-way).
3. EWA - immobilizing system (uses a transponder which sends & receives data using 2-way communication between the EWS components.

FZV & DWA are the closest to each other. They both are under the control of the GM...and the remote sends either a 315 MHz or 433 MHz RF (radio frequency) from the key to the aerial in the rear window...then onto the FZV receiver/amp...which then sends the data to the GM which then commands the central locking system to lock/unlock...and the DWA system to arm/disarm.

FZV & DWA also are powered by the battery inside the key. If that battery's voltage starts to drop...you can get odd behavior like the doors can be unlocked...but will not lock. Then if the voltage drops below 2.3 volts...you usually lose the FZV/DWA remote features.

EWS is self powered though induction. A 125 KHz RF signal is sent by the EWS control module to the Ring Antenna (around the ignition) which powers up the transponder inside the key...which then sends back the ISN data to the EWS control module. The battery inside the key is not required in order for the key to start the vehicle


Ignition position 1 is the first position past OFF. The ignition positions are:

• OFF
• KL R (ignition position 1) (FASTEN SEAT BELT warning does NOT illuminate when ignition is in this position)
• KL 15 (ignition position 2) (FASTEN SEAT BELT waring illuminates if ignition is in position 2 and seat belt not buckled)
• KL 50 (start position)
• KL 30 (position key returns to AFTER starting)

[stackz]

figured I would update this thread with a resolution. took me until today to try one last thing before tossing in the towel mainly because I've been ripping out my spare bathroom for a remodel the past week and a half and at work I've been swamped.

finally got caught up at work so I went out to the car with my old remote that I already cut open and tried and made sure it would crank the car and all first. that way I knew I had a way to drive the car in case I screwed up.

then I went back to my desk at work and cut open my key that always did work in the past but recently stopped...putting me down this path. cut it open and cut the factory panasonic battery off. tossed in one of the 2025 batteries I bought and went out the car.

it unlocks and locks and unlocks the trunk just fine now. I currently have it taped together but I think I will order one of those rubber covers off ebay to hold it together and still make it easy to replace the battery in the future.

Remote Key Skin Cover Case Shell FOB Fits BMW E81 E46 E38 X3 X5 Z3 Z4 Silicone | eBay

and I guess I'll toss my extra FZV up on ebay to sell since its tested working now.

I'm thinking of just getting one of those uncut key cases but not sure if a regular locksmith can cut one of those and they will probably want $50 anyway compared to just keep on using my old key with a cover...

I guess the remote function in my other key is just broken at this point. oh well.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by stackz

I think before I go that route I will probably just go ahead and cut open my main key and see if a new battery will help it. cant hurt at this point and I'll just glue the other key back together and use it while I do this.

you get your key from online or the dealer? I thought the dealer wanted like $300 for a key?

Just bite the bullet and get a new key. The vehicle's remote system is working but you need a new key. You can shop around for better price then $300. I got mine for $180 3 months ago from tischer. You will have to provide them a copy of your registration or title and then you are done.