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  #11  
Old 06-16-2017, 10:52 AM
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Ok so that happen to me no ac or warm air from vents
Check the clutch of the compressor. .and not engaging so the clutch was not working or engaging so pull it off and found the thermal fuse in the coil and replace it with a s order wire from pin to pin then check for continuity with voltmeter and vuaLa work again now clutch engages fine and fan turns on now ..before I thought that the fan was bad and order one from ebay but nothing I thought that both where bad but no there fine ..it its the system if clutch not engaging the fan will not turn on ...check that first. Good luck
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2017, 11:10 PM
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Ok i unplugged my pressure switch under my airbox. Fan took off like a 747. So that means what? Ihka interface bad? Or controll bad..... where? Also. Was blowing noticably coolet air, but not cold. Name of module? Or jumper clutch on compressor. Glad not the fan. That sucker is expensive for what it is. E39 fan way cheaper
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2017, 07:17 PM
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I step away for a few days and my thread is already hijacked!

Thanks for the suggestions, Wpoll, Overboost, and Javigo:


Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
I think you may be confusing the Aux. fan with the E-Box fan. I'm pretty sure they are different things.

The Aux. fan is (of course) the large diameter electric fan behind the grill (in front of the radiator) - the fan you are trying to diagnose.

The E-Box fan is a small cooling fan inside the E-box (electronics box) just below the windscreen . It keeps the DME and the other electrics inside the E-Box cool. Item 2 in the image below: -



Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
BTW, When I look up the Peake codes I get: -

Table 0F - 8D - Engine Cooling Fan Control
Table 18 - 8F - E-box Fan

And the other code you got: -

Table 0F - 7D - Radiator outlet temperature sensor
Table 15 - 7D - Coolant fan final stage
Table 19 - 7D - E-fan
Table 27 - 7D - Signal Lambda probe before KAT
Table 61 - 7D - Signal Lambda probe before KAT

HTH....
I may have them confused.. I am trying to diagnose the condensor fan. I made a typo on my last post. I have code 7d and 8d from Table 19. 7d is E-fan, not E-box fan as I mistakenly wrote. My guess is that the "E-fan" is referring to the condenser fan. I understand the mistake I made regarding the fuse in the fusebox fox for electric box fan (10A), that refers to the electric box that contains the DME as you pointed out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
I think a quick and easy way to test the aux fan is simply unplug the pressure switch down by the compressor. The fan should go spool up to full song if it is good.
See earlier posts, I unplugged this switch and it still did not fire up. Also was not able to have it power up with INPA (I'm sure I was using INPA correctly).
What I don't understand is why INPA wasn't reporting a fault for the E fan...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Javigo1971 View Post
Ok so that happen to me no ac or warm air from vents
Check the clutch of the compressor. .and not engaging so the clutch was not working or engaging so pull it off and found the thermal fuse in the coil and replace it with a s order wire from pin to pin then check for continuity with voltmeter and vuaLa work again now clutch engages fine and fan turns on now ..before I thought that the fan was bad and order one from ebay but nothing I thought that both where bad but no there fine ..it its the system if clutch not engaging the fan will not turn on ...check that first. Good luck
I doubt it is the compressor clutch since I get cold air when driving fast on the highway. Its when its very hot and stuck in traffic that the air is no longer cold and the thermostat temp increases...


I think my last diagnostic step will be to check for voltage on the harness once I find my damn multimeter. If there is power going into the fan and I cannot turn on with INPA or by disconnecting pressure switch, then I think its safe to say the fan is shot.

Thanks
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Last edited by hunds02; 06-18-2017 at 07:25 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2017, 10:42 PM
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Replaced the aux fan today and its working now! I went with the TYC brand as it received good reviews on amazon. This my second replacement so far. The first replacement was a BEHR I believe and it lasted a few years, maybe 4-5 if I recall. Given that my car has 178k miles, didn't seem to make sense to justify the OE fan.
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