Front Wheel Bearings Questions

ChiefRider · #1 08-09-2017, 01:45 PM

I will be replacing the front wheel bearings on my '04, so I ordered a pair of Timken branded bearings from an online parts house. They also listed FAG, but with the caveat that a specific replacement hub was also required. I chose the Timkens, as they had no such requirement listed. They were the more expensive choice as well.

On receipt, the boxes are Timken, but the enclosed bearings are Slovakian origin FAG bearings. I'm not too concerned about the possible bait-and-switch; More concerned with proper fitment.

Most importantly, I thought I had read the ABS reluctors were "built-in" to the bearings. Is this so? There is no apparent directionallity for installation, other than the standard bearing credo to push on the stamped end of the bearing.

Can anyone comment? Thanks!

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andrewwynn · #2 08-09-2017, 01:56 PM

The abs side of bearing is obvious. You should not have a problem with the fit other than they are A BEAST to remove and replace. I stripped three bolts from the bearing press (I upgraded after from 3/4 inch bolt to 1" bolt) which bumps the force up from 23,000 to 62,000#. What is your plan for bearing press? It takes about 30-35,000 to remove and about 20-25,000 to install. My upgraded bearing press does wonders. Stock it wasn't close to dealing with fronts. Might have the power to do backs.

I think my wife's left front is shot so I will be doing this process again soon. Any chance you are near SE Wisconsin?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

ChiefRider · #3 08-09-2017, 02:35 PM

I took a closer look at the bearings. The stamped (engraved) end also appears to have a thin black ring at the radius- I'm guessing this is the reluctor end. We'll need to compare it to the bearings we remove before installation.

I have been doing business with a local indie shop for some years, they have never let me down. With a quoted price of $300 for labor, there is no way I'm fooling around with them myself! More to the point, I don't have current access to a sufficiently heavy arbor or hydraulic press. And I'm in CT. Good luck with your installation. These things are loud as hell when failed!

wpoll · #4 08-09-2017, 03:59 PM

The ABS side is visible from the raised sections on the black seal, like in this image.

ChiefRider · #5 08-09-2017, 04:26 PM

Perfect, thanks!

cn90 · #6 08-09-2017, 07:35 PM

With the correct adapters, it is not a tough job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s8-8kH1AIU

Scott ZHP · #7 08-10-2017, 04:41 PM

Mine are making a racket too at 160k. My local (highly respected) indy shop just quoted me the following:

$467.50 labor (5.5hrs @ $85/hr)
$414 bearings (Timken @ $207 ea... really?)
$358 hubs ($179 ea)

I'm ok with the labor, but the parts quote is way high. They're ok with using parts that I supply so long as they're SKF, FAG or Timken. They will warrant the labor, but not parts that I supply; which is fair. They didn't want to bother trying to get the old race off the hubs when they pop them off. I told them for $358 they need to try for half an hour labor or so. They got the hint.

I'd normally tackle this myself, but I really can't spare the time with kids headed to college. I figure the hydraulic puller and plates and hardened threaded rod is about $200, so I'm looking at a net of about $270, which I'm ok with.

wpoll · #8 08-10-2017, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

They didn't want to bother trying to get the old race off the hubs when they pop them off. I told them for $358 they need to try for half an hour labor or so. They got the hint.

Take about 3 minutes to nick the old race with cutting wheel and smack it with a cold chisel. Job done.

ChiefRider · #9 08-10-2017, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

Mine are making a racket too at 160k. My local (highly respected) indy shop just quoted me the following:

$467.50 labor (5.5hrs @ $85/hr)
$414 bearings (Timken @ $207 ea... really?)
$358 hubs ($179 ea)

I'm ok with the labor, but the parts quote is way high. They're ok with using parts that I supply so long as they're SKF, FAG or Timken. They will warrant the labor, but not parts that I supply; which is fair. They didn't want to bother trying to get the old race off the hubs when they pop them off. I told them for $358 they need to try for half an hour labor or so. They got the hint.

I'd normally tackle this myself, but I really can't spare the time with kids headed to college. I figure the hydraulic puller and plates and hardened threaded rod is about $200, so I'm looking at a net of about $270, which I'm ok with.

Yikes.

I bought the bearings online, $130 for the pair of Timken branded bearings, which turned out to be FAG. My shop frequently asks me to get the parts- They know I strive for better quality than what they typically have available.

My indie is quite good. While he quoted me $300 labor (one side) he will charge less if it takes less time. The job won't be a problem for him at his shop. For me, it would be a PITA.

upallnight · #10 08-10-2017, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cn90

With the correct adapters, it is not a tough job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s8-8kH1AIU

That guy is a hack. If you are going to be posting a video on how to do a front bearing post this guy video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3dgrgmMZw0&t=14s

It's for an X3, but the two SAV are similar, but the best thing is his procedure on removing the bearing from the hub. I use the same hydraulic press but use an OTC front wheel bearing repair kit instead of making special plates.

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