Wheel bearing job from hell.....

[andrewwynn]

I could see the bumps in the abs ring. One side is supposed to have a wider chamfer to help get it centered / started. All bets are on the back band towards the car centerline

[chedeng]

Thanks Crowz and Andrewwynn. That's how I installed the bearing. I just finished front right side. The left side will be for tomorrow.

While I was removing the old bearing using my 20-ton press, I forgot about the loud bang when bearing releases . . . scared the shit out of me

Also, half of the bearing race stayed on the hub. I have to slightly cut it using a dremel without leaving a mark on the hub. I then use a torch to help expand and split the journal. Once it is split, I use a cold chisel to walk it out of the hub.


One important thing when pressing the new bearing on the spindle especially with a press . . . when it is about to hit bottom, keep a watchful eye on it and make sure it is close to or fully seated. Try fitting the wheel sensor making sure it does not rub against the bearing.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by chedeng

While I was removing the old bearing using my 20-ton press, I forgot about the loud bang when bearing releases . . . scared the shit out of me

I did my first one at 11pm in the dark alley. Imagine MY SURPRISE.

BETTER: I preloaded with 10,000# more than the push rod was designed and it didn't move: until i heated it to about 240°F and THEN the BANG! I was sure the knuckle split.

I didn't just get the one bang. Since I was using a threaded rod press, I got bang-bang-bang-bang. The secondary bangs were not as loud.

Also, half of the bearing journal stayed on the hub. I have to slightly cut it using a dremel without leaving a mark on the hub. I then use a torch to help expand and split the journal. Once it is split, I use a cold chisel to walk it out of the hub.

I used to use that method now I use my 4.5" right angle grinder and cut parallel to the hub face to make a 1/16" slot in the bearing race that I can use a chisel to push the race off. No heat needed.

That is the normal for the bearing. The inner race will always stay behind.

[cn90]

The Honda Odyssey Front bearing is fun to watch.

Without the use of any press...

These guys should have use a piece of wood to hold the spindle while banging it out...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edabaqTXBYw


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[cn90]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I did my first one at 11pm in the dark alley. Imagine MY SURPRISE.

BETTER: I preloaded with 10,000# more than the push rod was designed and it didn't move: until i heated it to about 240°F and THEN the BANG! I was sure the knuckle split....

For the OUTER Race, I wonder if we can use a small angle grinder or dremel and cut a 45-degree groove (making sure you do not go through the racer and cut into the spindle), deep enough to make it weak, then bang it out using cold chisel?

[cn90]

I found the answer to the OUTER Race inside the spindle, this guy used a "rotary tool" (probably angle grinder with small blade or dremel) and make a 45-degree cut, then tap it out...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nifUUKDMiw


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[andrewwynn]

Same principle applies. I use my 30T bearing press and my 760 ft·lb impact to knock out the bearing. Clever to use a Dremel if you don't have the tool but I wouldn't hammer the new bearing in.

[cn90]

Actually...

- Few people own a press, so dremel 45-degrees should help removal.

- New bearing: use installation tool or, actually if you have a big socket or old bearing OUTER race, gently hammer it in as long as you hammer the outer race, it will be fine.

Many people remove/install bearing with little understanding of how bearing works. If people do a bit of reading then they will know the "dos and don'ts".