New battery & Alternator causing Trans. Failsafe Prog

[sgrice]

Sorry if there wasn't an actual diagnosis of a parasitic drain - when I saw in the first post that you had just put in a new battery I assumed it was because of a recent battery failure. From that assumption I postulated a parasitic drain.

Anyway, to "say it plainly," - the ignition switch is inexpensive enough and simple enough to swap out that I would just buy one and switch it out. Realize that the ignition switch has a number of mechanical switches inside it that control lots of different electrical functions in the car. So even if the car is starting fine you just know that the ignition relay is OK. One of the other relays could be pitted, resulting in increased resistance/decreased amps/etc. and causing malfunction elsewhere. If you read through the Salty Dog posting, I referenced a couple of videos where people have attempted to diagnose a faulty ignition switch. However, there are so many wires going in/out of the switch, and the functions of each wire is not clearly known that I'm not sure it's worth trying to diagnose. In the states, at least, you can get a non BMW switch on ebay for about $30. Swap it out and in 15 minutes you'll know whether it was the issue. I realize that some might say my recommendation is just wildly throwing parts at the car, but (obviously) I don't think so. It's a reasonable expenditure of time and money in my view.

Having read so many descriptions of ignition switches causing problems in BMW's of this era, I have just purchased a switch for my son's e53. We'll swap it out as preemptive maintenance when he's home over Thanksgiving. That might be overkill for some, but I think it's equivalent to the preemptive replacement I did on his expansion tank a few years ago. Common things are common, and it's a fairly easy and inexpensive task that might save some hassles down the road.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. Good Luck!

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

The ELM327 with Torque Pro mobile app. I have also been able to clear the faults with it, but the failsafe comes back after a few seconds

The fault comes back because whatever is causing it is still broken.

Have you tried driving with the MAF connector unplugged? Unplug it, start the engine, go for a drive. If it drives better and you get no failsafe then either your MAF is bad or your MAF wiring is bad.

Given that you most likely unplugged the MAF as part of your earlier intake work, I'm guessing you have a broken wire on the wiring going to the MAF....

[Crowz]

I just thought of something I ran across before. I fixed an e46 for a guy once with similar problems. What he done was replaced a torn intake boot that runs from the mass air flow to the intake. The problem turned out to be that he had forgotten to plug a small vacuum line back to the bottom of the new boot that was on the old boot. This caused unmetered air to enter the intake since it wasn't going across the maf sensor to be measured. Plugged the hose back in and fixed it for him. Since you had done intake work I figured I would throw that in.

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by Crowz

I just thought of something I ran across before...

the problem turned out to be that he had forgotten to plug a small vacuum line back to the bottom of the new boot that was on the old boot.

Thanks Crowz- that didn't help me, but I fee like it is something small/obvious like this! Do you have any other suggestions on something I could have missed?

Originally Posted by wpoll

Have you tried driving with the MAF connector unplugged? Unplug it, start the engine, go for a drive.

Did this-exactly the same issue. Failsafe triggers within a few seconds of starting even with the MAF disconnected. Does this rule out the MAF as the cause?

What else around the MAF/intake throttle/boot area could I have missed? Is there a chance my alternator is faulty and causing this? I'm totally lost here

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

Did this-exactly the same issue. Failsafe triggers within a few seconds of starting even with the MAF disconnected. Does this rule out the MAF as the cause?

It probably rules out the MAF device itself but it doesn't rule out vacuum leaks on the intake or MAF housing, crushed/shorted MAF wiring etc.

Just to be sure, it has had this fault since you did the intake work (DISA pin etc.) right? Or was it running OK-ish after the DISA work - but the alternator and battery were then failing?

Uphill battle, this one.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by wpoll

It probably rules out the MAF device itself but it doesn't rule out vacuum leaks on the intake or MAF housing, crushed/shorted MAF wiring etc.

Just to be sure, it has had this fault since you did the intake work (DISA pin etc.) right? Or was it running OK-ish after the DISA work - but the alternator and battery were then failing?

Uphill battle, this one.

The MAF is not ruled out. I don't recall and don't want to read all the posts--Have you cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner?

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Just to be sure, it has had this fault since you did the intake work (DISA pin etc.) right?

Or was it running OK-ish after the DISA work - but the alternator and battery were then failing?

1. Was running OK-ish after the DISA and CCV replacement, but the battery was not charging, indicating a dead alternator.
2. BMW airbag check (see detail below)
3. Replaced alternator, jump started car with OLD battery. Engine drove weak/lights were dimming on/off but NO failsafe error came up...
4. When replacing Alternator, broke the Auxilary Water Pump, bought a replacement
5. Replaced battery, car starts every time but immediately goes to Trans Failsafe

Could it be rejecting the new Auxilary water pump? Do I need to register new parts to the ECU?


*MAY be unrelated* But... I took it to BMW Sydney for the airbag recall check. Drove fine there. When they gave it back to me, it was incredibly weak. I took it back immediately. They used some "powerpack" to jump start it immediately. I would normally leave it on jumper cables for 30 mins then start.

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Have you cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner?

I have not cleaned it with MAF cleaner- but is dust likely to cause this? It is also a bit broken... http://imgur.com/9p3iSPF

[Crowz]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

1. <LI abp="990">Was running OK-ish after the DISA and CCV replacement, but the battery was not charging, indicating a dead alternator. <LI abp="991">BMW airbag check (see detail below) <LI abp="992">Replaced alternator, jump started car with OLD battery. Engine drove weak/lights were dimming on/off but NO failsafe error came up... <LI abp="993">When replacing Alternator, broke the Auxilary Water Pump, bought a replacement
2. Replaced battery, car starts every time but immediately goes to Trans Failsafe

Could it be rejecting the new Auxilary water pump? Do I need to register new parts to the ECU?


*MAY be unrelated* But... I took it to BMW Sydney for the airbag recall check. Drove fine there. When they gave it back to me, it was incredibly weak. I took it back immediately. They used some "powerpack" to jump start it immediately. I would normally leave it on jumper cables for 30 mins then start.



I have not cleaned it with MAF cleaner- but is dust likely to cause this? It is also a bit broken... http://imgur.com/9p3iSPF

Woah wait a minute what does "weak" mean in the above?

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by Crowz

Woah wait a minute what does "weak" mean in the above?

As in, very little engine power.

Internal lights flickering/dimming.

Felt as if there was barely enough electricity to power the car.

According the the BMW mech, it was because we jump started it and the computer was getting confused about shift points etc.

Is that normal?

[Crowz]

I bet they screwed up something.

The old adage are words to live by KIS Keep It Simple.

1.Drove fine to get the airbag swap.

2. Went to hell in a hand basket while they had it.

3. They broke something so make them fix it.

At least hat would normally by the scenario but you have done so much since then who knows.