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  #41  
Old 11-18-2017, 10:57 PM
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In case someone runs across me fussing about the auto locking I think I figured out the problem.

If you don't set the remote to do convenient locking or whatever its called you have to manually unlock the door lock with the key for it to auto lock at x mph. I have that turned off from what I remember. I will turn it back on when the rain quits or tomorrow (more likely tomorrow) and test it but I bet that's the problem.
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  #42  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:21 AM
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Ok last side track on this thread I promise. I fixed the auto locking. I didn't have after start key 1 key 2 etc checked. Once I did that I was even able to get it to lock at 4kmh which is what I wanted all along.

I watched the gauge some more and it seems to be working right. Tomorrow when its cold I will test it from cold to center position.
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  #43  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowz View Post
Ok last side track on this thread I promise. I fixed the auto locking. I didn't have after start key 1 key 2 etc checked. Once I did that I was even able to get it to lock at 4kmh which is what I wanted all along.

I watched the gauge some more and it seems to be working right. Tomorrow when its cold I will test it from cold to center position.
I have just never had the auto lock feature enabled. I have reservations on how long the GM3 relays last firing the locks every time I drive it. I run so many errands in this thing they would lock at least 10 times a day.
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  #44  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:41 AM
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My 323i has 410k miles I think, haven't driven it lately so not exactly sure.

But its auto locked its entire life and still works. I worry more about getting car jacked or something blind sided wise. You can handle stuff if you see it coming but those out of the blue things are rough and I want a few seconds warning at least when I have the wife with me.

I probably wouldn't of cared if I didn't have it already on the 323i all those years. You get used to it and all.

I never even lock the doors on my other vehicles that don't have it but on the bmw's it just feels right for it to be there.
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  #45  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowz View Post
My 323i has 410k miles I think, haven't driven it lately so not exactly sure.

But its auto locked its entire life and still works. I worry more about getting car jacked or something blind sided wise. You can handle stuff if you see it coming but those out of the blue things are rough and I want a few seconds warning at least when I have the wife with me.

I probably wouldn't of cared if I didn't have it already on the 323i all those years. You get used to it and all.

I never even lock the doors on my other vehicles that don't have it but on the bmw's it just feels right for it to be there.
Indeed. I should reevaluate my paranoia on the GM3 module. I just wish you didn't have to pull the damn handles twice or hit the central lock button to get out. Does your Android iBus adapter unlock the doors when key off or park position? That would be nice!
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  #46  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:51 AM
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I never looked. I was afraid to use the programming options and such in the android stuff since it might mess up what I worked so hard to get just right with the coding. But I do need to look and see if it has stuff to issue commands like that and not be a coding thing. The software I wrote for the some of my other bmw's could do that but I wrote that so I can add to it. The x5's stuff I bought so no source code. But it may have something like that in it as it has a ton of options.
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  #47  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:53 AM
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The double pull on the handle was annoying a few hundred thousand miles ago but it gets to be second nature pretty fast on the bmw's. Of course it makes you feel stupid on the non bmw cars when you try it.
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  #48  
Old 11-19-2017, 10:48 AM
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If anyone wants to adjust the temperature thresholds in the gauge other than the settings/values I used, here is a chart showing the decimal values to hexadecimal values.

20C=14
25C=19
30C=1E
35C=23
40C=28
45C=2D
50C=32
55C=37
60C=3C
65C=41
70C=46
75C=4B
80C=50
85C=55
90C=5A
95C=5F
100C=64
105C=69
110C=6E
115C=73
120C=78
125C=7D
130C=82
135C=87
140C=8C
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Last edited by Overboost; 11-19-2017 at 10:57 AM.
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  #49  
Old 11-19-2017, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowz View Post
The double pull on the handle was annoying a few hundred thousand miles ago but it gets to be second nature pretty fast on the bmw's. Of course it makes you feel stupid on the non bmw cars when you try it.

Annoys me because my car doesn't autolock but my wife's car does. I've recently driven a car that auto locks on shift to drive but auto unlocks on key off. Not sure if that could be programmed into x5.

Anecdotally: two of wife's lock actuators are broken at 145000 miles none of mine are broken at 156000. What pisses me off regularly is moving the car 50 feet and I get out and can't get something out of the "trunk" happens a few times a month very irritating. Happened twice yesterday! Even more annoying lately because one of the broken actuators will lock but won't unlock. I have to reach in from the driver's door to unlock the rear door from inside. It's where I keep my mobility scooter.

Wife likes the auto lock but once I can program it I can set it to lock at 15-20 mph for her and 750 mph for me.
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  #50  
Old 06-01-2019, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
I found the hex code for our E53 X5 Crowz. Like the E39, the code is in 2 places and must be modified in both addresses. The addresses for the code string are:

0x0F0 rolling into 0x100
0x290 rolling into 0x02A0

My original hex code starting at:
0F 62 32 CB 4B CB 73 38 78 6A 7D FF
Changed to:
0F 62 3C CB 55 CB 5F 38 6E 6A 73 FF

...
I got the PA Soft running earlier, and am having some questions about the gauge programming.

First, general question, when you say "0x0F0 rolling into 0x100" do you mean that the 12-element byte array that you list is present in consecutive elements spread across those two 16-element rows? I think yes, but just checking. For example, my first appearance looks like:
0x0F0 08 45 14 E8 27 0F 5E 32 C9 4B C9 73 36 78 6A 7D
0X100 FF ...


Then regarding the values found in there, it looks like there are different values found by overboost, crowz, and now me. Here's what I've found reported here, plus what I found on my 2001 3.0i with high cluster.

0F 62 32 CB 4B CB 73 38 78 6A 7D FF overboost original 2004 3.0i high
0F 65 32 D0 4B D0 73 38 78 69 7D FF crowz original
0F 5E 32 C9 4B C9 73 36 78 6A 7D FF oldskewel original 2001 3.0i high

The fact that these arrays do not match raises some concern for me, and I figured I should think before bricking my car.

6 of the 12 values in each array seem to map to meaningful values, as I'll write out here:
0F 62 32 CB 4B CB 73 38 78 6A 7D FF overboost
0F 65 32 D0 4B D0 73 38 78 69 7D FF crowz
0F 5E 32 C9 4B C9 73 36 78 6A 7D FF oldskewel
15 -- 50 -- 75 -- 115 -- 120 -- 125 -- hex to Decimal (*C) conversions. meaningful values shown, others left as "--"

It looks like those 6 break point temps all match for all 3, as do some of the others. So if it is true that the 6 other ("--") values don't matter, then the 3 original arrays do match between overboost, crowz, and me.

The gauge visualizations show 8 total values, but I think I figured this one out. The two extra ones (e.g., 60*C and 118*C) are not actual break points. They are interpolated, which is why they show in light gray in the visualization. So there are only 6 actual values to adjust.

So I think I've figured things out as I have carefully composed this question. I'm thinking I should leave the ("--") values as is, and modify only the 6 meaningful breakpoint values, making sure to make the change in both places this array appears.

Sound good?
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