WDS application

[sneary]

that was my first suspicion on ignition switch so replaced even though tests came out good but original part and i have 291000 on dash now lol i checked all fuses in glove box as well as ones behind fuse panel. all were good minus a heated steering wheel which i dont have that option so no power going to that and the fuse for abs dcs showed no power going to but believe that turns on once vehicle is running. visually that fuse look good. checked fuses in back by right tail light...all were good. still gotta check fuses under hood. what would you think about the 200 amp fuse in back by air suspension. i think if that fuse was blown i dont think id have power at all correct?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by sneary

... what would you think about the 200 amp fuse in back by air suspension. i think if that fuse was blown i dont think id have power at all correct?

F200, in the main fuse bank above the battery? Yeah, if that was popped, you'd have zero power to a lot of the car.

It's upstream of F105, feeding F105, so your fault current is running through F105 but (good news), your fault current is less than 200 amps (but more than 60 amps).

Actually, most fuses have a fuse rating of something like 2x the stated current, i.e. it takes 120 amps to blow a 60 amp fuse. A 60A fuse can safely carry 60A continuously but it take quite a bit more to blow it.

So you have a BIG current sink somewhere. And I'm guessing that 60A fuses are too expensive to just keep disconnecting stuff until it stops blowing.. so we'll need to get a bit smarter on fault finding here... Putting my thinking cap on...