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  #21  
Old 04-06-2020, 10:00 PM
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Hi,

I did this the other weekend with the help of threads like this. I just thought I would throw my two cents in.

Firstly, it is definitely a DIY job, but I wouldn't say it's easy. It takes a few tools you should probably already have around the house anyways, such as extensions, breaker bars, torx sockets. Additionally, I went out and got the Harbor Freight engine bar support. It was very useful, and for $70 (after 20% coupon) it's well worth it versus the $1500 quotes I was getting from local independents. It's a super simple tool, not sure what else it could be used for, but for lifting the engine it's great.

I removed most of the air ducts and had my car on jack stands in the front (ramps and chocks in the back). Alot of broken plastic rivets, but those are generally one time use only in my experience.

My best advice is to loosen the bolts/nuts first without taking them off entirely. Depending on which side you start at, I am not sure which is best, but you don't want the other side to become detached. You want it to remain connected, albeit loose. The reason being, if you are a smart guy like me and undo both mounts at the same time, the engine will float one way or the other, in my case towards the passengers side, which means after you do finally replace the mounts, lowering the engine won't line up onto the mounts. In my case I was able to lift the engine with one of the HF bar screws, and then use the other one to sort of pull it back towards the drivers side, along with a bit of assistance from a wooden block and jack from underneath.

I did not undo or remove the engine brackets, I left those as is and instead dropped the subframe about an inch or so. It's so frustrating because as you lift the engine, you see the mounts loosen and become so free that you can lift and wiggle them as you like, you just simply can't remove them from the area in which they reside. I believe the max limit of lifting the engine is when the front axles are near touching the body. Especially the drivers side one. No amount of rotation or squirming and wriggling could get the mounts out until I just briefly lowered the subframe and then out they came.

By the way I took the wheels off for ease of access. As a sidetrack, out of habit, I always keep ramps or the wheels under the car somewhere that if something goes haywire, they will give me some minute chance of survival. I also found a good spot in the front subframe to put a spare jack stand just in case, kind of near the jacking point.

I am not sure if the subframe bolts are one time or reusable. I reused mine. Prior to loosening, I drew a line with a silver paint pen so I knew about where to torque them again when done. It was basically the extent of where I could tighten them anyways. Also before tightening them I like to spray some parts cleaner around just to get rid of any dirt or grit that may have gotten loose along the way.

So basically, if you don't make the mistake of replacing both mounts at once, always keep one connected loosely, you should be fine. I am a very novice garage mechanic and this was definitely the biggest undertaking yet. I did a whole bunch of other servicing stuff while I had the reinforcement plate and splash shield off too.

The bad news? My vibration at idle is still there in Drive and Reverse (not in Park). So I guess this leads to a transfer case / transmission mount in my future. But hey for 19 years and 116k miles it was probably time to change the mounts anyways, plus it got me a lot more familiar with my car.

Hope my experience helps someone out there.
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  #22  
Old 06-14-2020, 10:16 PM
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I was working on suspension, so everything was off including axles.
I thought I'd replace the oil pan gasket while in there.
So I just dropped the subframe.
Not sure if I should replace the mounts or not?
They looks completely fine and I had no vibration.
Mileage is 250k miles but I think previous owner replaced the engine.
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  #23  
Old 06-14-2020, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
I was working on suspension, so everything was off including axles.
I thought I'd replace the oil pan gasket while in there.
So I just dropped the subframe.
Not sure if I should replace the mounts or not?
They looks completely fine and I had no vibration.
Mileage is 250k miles but I think previous owner replaced the engine.
When I did mine they looked perfect but I did have a vibration at idle. Night and day difference when I replaced them. Corteco mounts aren't but $50/pc so I would recommend doing them since you have it this far apart.
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2020, 10:50 PM
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Cortego are $60 a piece at fcpeuro so not bad. Especially easy to replace as i left them mounted to the subframe.
I'm thinking what else to replace while in there, with the subframe removed.
Transmission mounts, transfer case mount?
Never removed subframe mount on E53, wondering what people are changing while in there
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  #25  
Old 06-14-2020, 10:57 PM
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I just did this a couple of weeks ago myself changing my OPG. The is only one large transmission mount and I have not seen many replace it (it is stout).

I had replaced my engine mounts earlier this year so I just did the OPG and put it all back together.

I see you left your steering rack in the car so you must have pulled the right tie rod as it goes right through the subframe below the right side mount. I might suggest changing the 90W in your front diff since you have it out.

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  #26  
Old 06-14-2020, 11:06 PM
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Yes you're right, tie rod is out. I was replacing everything on the front suspension except struts, so doing the tie rods as well. With the inner tie rod attached, I was easily able to slide the subframe out.
I had already replaced all the fluids in the vehicle when I bought it originally, so I guess I'll just replace that oil pan gasket.
Definitely one of the biggest jobs on these cars.

When I replaced the OPG and engine mounts on my E39, I also upgraded the antiroll bar to eibach.
I was thinking of doing the same with X5 but didn't find anything beefier.
Is the oil pan bolted to the transfer case from the side?
Just looking what bolts to undo to drop the pan other than the bolts going around the pan itself.
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  #27  
Old 06-14-2020, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
Yes you're right, tie rod is out. I was replacing everything on the front suspension except struts, so doing the tie rods as well. With the inner tie rod attached, I was easily able to slide the subframe out.
I had already replaced all the fluids in the vehicle when I bought it originally, so I guess I'll just replace that oil pan gasket.
Definitely one of the biggest jobs on these cars.

When I replaced the OPG and engine mounts on my E39, I also upgraded the antiroll bar to eibach.
I was thinking of doing the same with X5 but didn't find anything beefier.
Is the oil pan bolted to the transfer case from the side?
Just looking what bolts to undo to drop the pan other than the bolts going around the pan itself.
Front diff is bolted to the oil pan by 4 M10 bolts. Check the 2 orings if you have any 90W leaks between the pan and diff or from the right side axle carrier bolted to the pan. There will be 21 M6 pan bolts and 3 M8 lateral torx bolts from the transmission bell housing to the pan as well.

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  #28  
Old 06-15-2020, 11:48 AM
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I'm like 95% noob at this, but I would replace the mounts for sure. And also the front diff fluid. The less often to have to take off the steel reinforcement plate, the better, and you already have so much of the necessary pre-requisite work done you might as well.

Don't quote me on this, but I believe the transmission/transfer case mount can be done separately, without involving any of the reinforcement plate stuff. Not 100% sure though. I did not do mine yet, but intend to.

My problem is - how do you guys keep your undercarriage so clean? It looks brand new! Actually better than brand new!
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  #29  
Old 06-15-2020, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DriverX View Post
My problem is - how do you guys keep your undercarriage so clean? It looks brand new! Actually better than brand new!
Well if the question is for me, I just spend time under it addressing leaks and service. Mine has 180,000 miles on it now.

Having the ability to get under it makes a big difference. I bought a QuickJack 7000EXT on Black Friday 2019 and has been an absolute game changer for me taking care of engine, transmission and chassis projects.

Last edited by Overboost; 06-15-2020 at 04:19 PM.
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  #30  
Old 06-15-2020, 04:36 PM
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I did my mounts too like two months ago and I thought I posted pictures showing this..ergh

At any rate, I didn't remove any axles. The driver side was the most difficult. But only needed to loosen the three K-member reverse torx on the DS and use a prybar just to shimmy out new mount. Wasn't that bad at all.
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