Panic Stop, now no brakes and Puddle of fluid?

[Purplefade]

In regard to bleeding, when mine went I had to use my scanner to open the ABS block or all I got was a soft pedal and no back brakes.

That my not be the case in all instances but mine dumped better than half the fluid in the master cylinder and I until I opened the block I wasn't able to purge all of the air from the system and get the pedal up.


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[FourPointEight-is]

While we're on the topic, any ideas what can cause the brake pedal to not firm up even after 6-8 rounds of bleeding? I just replaced my booster/master cyl and I def introduced air into the system since I had to take everything off incl the 2 brake pipes that go to from the cylinder (E53 4.8is).

I have bled over two litres of fluid out of the system (I also use ISTA-D to cycle the ABS/DSC pump) - no bubbles coming out at this point however the pedal is still stupidly soft. The bleed pattern I used is rear right, rear left; front right, front left;

Also, is the pedal doesn't feel uniform to press down - about 1/3 of the way its kinda difficult the the last 2/3 of the way its VERY easy!

Is my master cyl busted?

[upallnight]

Also if you buy bulk fittings for the repair, make sure you buy the correct fitting. Double flare fittings are completely different from bubble flare fittings, and if you mix the two you can be guaranteed that the connection will leak.

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by FourPointEight-is

While we're on the topic, any ideas what can cause the brake pedal to not firm up even after 6-8 rounds of bleeding? I just replaced my booster/master cyl and I def introduced air into the system since I had to take everything off incl the 2 brake pipes that go to from the cylinder (E53 4.8is).

I have bled over two litres of fluid out of the system (I also use ISTA-D to cycle the ABS/DSC pump) - no bubbles coming out at this point however the pedal is still stupidly soft. The bleed pattern I used is rear right, rear left; front right, front left;

Also, is the pedal doesn't feel uniform to press down - about 1/3 of the way its kinda difficult the the last 2/3 of the way its VERY easy!

Is my master cyl busted?

FourPointEight-is,

Man I did the same thing with mine and in all honesty bleeding them by hand never got me there, I had to use a power bleeder and finally, after two rounds with the power bleeder my pedal formed up nicely and I was done.

As a note I bled pass rear, driver front then driver rear, pass front and that worked very well for me - again, using a power bleeder. I honestly think the difference was the power bleeds kept pressure on the system the entire time vs raising and pressing the pedal caused "turbulence" - dead not very scientific... but I did finally get there.

Maybe see if your local parts store has a power bleeder in their tool rental?? I actually purchased one off Amazon for about $60 if I recall that took a low pressure air line to keep pressure on the system.

GOOD LUCK!!


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[andrewwynn]

I've read that vacuum bleed not effective and "you should use pressure bleed" and paid about $50-60 for the one rated highest via Amazon.

[Best4x4xFAR]

I wasn't sure if wanted to deal with the repair..
Not sure of my Bubble flare Technique..
Don't have a power bleeder..


Called the local dealer for kicks..
100%+ Mark-up on the parts (Quoted at $256)
Six hours Labor to replace lines and bleed system..

$1,100 please..

[andrewwynn]

Yeah that's why I went with the $37 parts $23 tool option.


To be fair another $30 perhaps in fluid another $60 for the power bleeder but I already bought that long ago when I decided I should flush out the brakes.

Use the likes of a Dremel or cut off wheel or grinder/file and cut a cross-section of a test flare or two. You'll Bui us confidence quickly. If you don't have to remove the whole line it will be pretty easy. To do again I would splice forward of the rear wheel it's a bear to get the pipes in/out of there.

Thanks for looking the quote up I like to compare the costs to show the wife what I'm saving vs dealer.

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Yeah that's why I went with the $37 parts $23 tool option.


To be fair another $30 perhaps in fluid another $60 for the power bleeder.

Definitely agreed on that, with the exception of the bleeder which I purchased specific for this job but will now have in my tool collection for whenever it's needed the next time.

My dealer wanted a little over $1600 when I called to ball park price, I quickly(very quickly) decided this was going to be a DIY job



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[Best4x4xFAR]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The fittings are 10x1 mm and 12mm (can't remember if 1mm pitch).

Wait, they are different sizes??


Found the 3/16 lines at the local auto parts store, and they even have bubble flares on them, but can't find a bubble flare tool at the local rentals, nor can I seem to find the metric unions and fittings..

[BimmerDude11]

Yes line #1 is a M12 and all the other lines are M10.
If the auto shop doesn't have metric unions could try a local hardware store. I think I got mine at Ace Hardware.
Otherwise you could get them online as it sounds like you'll have to get the bubble flare tool online as well.

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