Panic Stop, now no brakes and Puddle of fluid?

[BimmerDude11]

Yes line #1 is a M12 and all the other lines are M10.
If the auto shop doesn't have metric unions could try a local hardware store. I think I got mine at Ace Hardware.
Otherwise you could get them online as it sounds like you'll have to get the bubble flare tool online as well.

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[Best4x4xFAR]

Originally Posted by BimmerDude11

Yes line #1 is a M12 and all the other lines are M10.
If the auto shop doesn't have metric unions could try a local hardware store. I think I got mine at Ace Hardware.
Otherwise you could get them online as it sounds like you'll have to get the bubble flare tool online as well. Attachment 73772

Sent from my SM-G935T using Xoutpost.com mobile app

So the union (part # 2) is M12 on the front side and M10 on the rear side of the Union?

So as long as I reuse that fitting, I shouldn't need anything special?

My thought process was disconnect Line 3 from the backside of Union (2, then cut Line 3 somewhere along the straight section.

Then disconnect Line 6 from the backside of union (5) and again cut Line 5 along the straight section..

I was assuming I would reuse the Unions (2 & 5) - Bad assumption?
And then I would need only an M10 fitting on the front and back of the 'intermediate' lines I am creating..

Flare the cut ends of the lines and join with an M10 union..

Assuming i can find everything, this sound feasible?

Car has been down almost a week now, and my wife is not happy..
Have to try to get this down this weekend if at all possible..

[BimmerDude11]

Your plan will work with one caveat.
The #2 union is just a normal M12 union.
It's the connection on line #3 (red arrow) that is the special piece that upscales the line to the larger line in front of it.



You could cut this off the old line and move it to your new line.
Or you could cut line #3 behind that connection and splice in there you would just need another union to do so.

Either way I would recommend that when you cut the lines at the back along the straight section that you off set the cuts. That way it will be easier to make your bubble flares and afterwards there will be less of a chance of them touching since the connections are not side by side.

[Best4x4xFAR]

Okay, so if I reuse the fitting from the old line, it should work then I guess..


Is there a functional difference between the bubble flare and the double flare? Or just a European vs American way of doing the same thing?

Since I have to cut the lines anyway, thinking where I make the 'splice' I could just do a set of double flare there at that union, since the tool and parts are readily available, and the 3/16 lines I bought already have a bubble flare on them for the forward connection..

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR

Okay, so if I reuse the fitting from the old line, it should work then I guess..


Is there a functional difference between the bubble flare and the double flare? Or just a European vs American way of doing the same thing?

Since I have to cut the lines anyway, thinking where I make the 'splice' I could just do a set of double flare there at that union, since the tool and parts are readily available, and the 3/16 lines I bought already have a bubble flare on them for the forward connection..

Both fittings are designed to connect brake lines to other fittings, calipers, etc, but you can not use a bubble fitting and use a double flare tool to flare the brake line, nor can you use a flare fitting and use a bubble tool for the brake line. The fittings are different.