After many BMWs, finally snagged my first X - Page 3

JesterMX6 · #1 09-07-2018, 03:57 PM

I'll have to try some of these suggestions. The LED tails i found (dont have the bookmark on this computer) indicate they are for 2004 - 2006 only.

Ricky Bobby · #2 09-07-2018, 05:27 PM

The LED tails can be used on pre-facelift and facelift X5's - you may need to swap some pins in the wiring harness (I had to on my 2003) -

wpoll · #3 09-08-2018, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

The LED tails can be used on pre-facelift and facelift X5's - you may need to swap some pins in the wiring harness (I had to on my 2003) -

Yep - that's what I meant by "hack something up..." .

Looking at the wiring diagrams etc. there are at least three variations in tail lights and tail light wiring in the e53 production run from 1999-2006.

How can something so simple be so complicated...

deepblonde · #4 09-10-2018, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll

Yep - that's what I meant by "hack something up..." .

Looking at the wiring diagrams etc. there are at least three variations in tail lights and tail light wiring in the e53 production run from 1999-2006.

How can something so simple be so complicated...

I can’t remember hacking anything up...

But I did have to change some values with NCS expert, to stop the flickering..

https://xoutpost.com/945903-post15.html

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ght-diy-3.html

wpoll · #5 09-10-2018, 12:38 AM

After-market LED tails and replacement bulbs are illegal in NZ anyway, so moot point for me.

bcredliner · #6 09-10-2018, 11:52 AM

Never had a problem with a taillight socket in 121,000 miles. Since they have lasted this long, if one ever does fail, I will replace it with same socket.

LED or high intensity bulbs I have installed are those that don't cause a dash light or flicker. Never had to do any coding. Would seem some of the aftermarket LED taillight assemblies would have the same feature.

When I replace a bulb I always add a little Dielectric (bulb) grease. Eliminates the risk that it will run off in higher heat conditions.

FRod1981 · #7 09-10-2018, 12:41 PM

I may do the dielectric grease as a preventative measure. It gets over 100C in the summer consistently for months at a time. Everything plastic turns to glass. It I guess that’s better than salt and corrosion from the eastern states.

JesterMX6 · #8 09-10-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRod1981

I may do the dielectric grease as a preventative measure. It gets over 100C in the summer consistently for months at a time. Everything plastic turns to glass. It I guess that’s better than salt and corrosion from the eastern states.

Um...my conversions may be off but...isn't 100C the equivalent of 212F? As in boiling?

FRod1981 · #9 09-10-2018, 02:06 PM

yeah brain fart. 100F.

JesterMX6 · #10 09-10-2018, 09:56 PM

One step forward, two steps back.

Replaced the right ball joint (Huge PITA to do btw) and took care of the loose front end issues I was having so that's nice. Also changed the oil and filter. I'd been smelling coolant and seem to need about 20oz of fluid every fill up or so. Unfortunately pressurizing the system to almost 20psi yielded not a single leak so I'm not sure what's going on there. Bubbles in the system would explain the need to put some water in the system, but it doesn't explain why I smell it sometimes after parking.

Now the oil drain plug is leaking. New one and washer should be here tomorrow, along with a pair of fresh halo blubs.

Looked over the tail light and there's some decent scorch marks on the circuit board and the sockets. If i wiggle the socket around it makes a connection, so I may try cleaning it up instead of messing with LEDs.

FM reception is trash so i'm pretty sure i'm going to have to mess with the diversity box or whatever its called and see what's happening there. Still getting the following codes when driving:
P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cyl 1 Misfire
P0302 - Cyl 2 Misfire
P0303 - Cyl 3 Misfire

Makes me think the O2 sensor just needs to be replaced. I hope that's all it needs.

Using an O ring around the DISA valve seemed to get rid of the lean condition code I was getting and brought my idle up about 100rpm.

Also found the intake boot wasn't sealing (even with the hose clamp cranked) around the MAF so I wrapped some tape around the maf to better mach the diameter of the boot. That brought my RPM up even more at idle and fixed the weird hesitation i was having. Problem is i'm still dropping idle after I've been driving for a bit, but i'm thinking its related to the O2 code.

Oh. Confirmed it needs rear pads now too.