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  #11  
Old 09-12-2018, 04:26 PM
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Look into the adjustung rod situation. Better that the brake pedal is slightly off the activation point than sightly depressed always.

After watching that video, i would probably open up the master cylinder to check the check valves after making sure no abs codes


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  #12  
Old 01-02-2019, 01:12 AM
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E53 Brakes locking up issues

Having had this issue for several months with no one able to offer solution, it turned out to be brake booster. Yes, the brakes would slowly start to lock up after about ten miles and lock up so badly it would not be able to be moved. Having no solution, and not willing to start replacing parts given no codes were coming up, and having checked everything I could, got ABS bleeding diagnostics, bled over and over again, still not fixed, disconnected ABS module to isolate, no difference, disconnected pressure sensor, no difference, pinched off vacuum to booster, no difference, checked calipers, replaced brakes, hoses, no difference, so for those rare situations of locking up brakes and soft and hard brake pedal where brakes would barely stop, to hard pedal where they would lock up on their own, change brake booster, not cheap, and why I looked for an answer for months before throwing more money into this 200K money pit. lol
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2019, 04:51 AM
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What causes this (sorry I didn't see it when it was first posted) is from having the brakes very slightly applied. I ran into this back when I converted my 323i from automatic to a stick shift. When I changed the pedals it caused them to be out of adjustment with pedal linkage. Once I took care of that no more problems.

The reason the brakes drag after you drive for awhile comes from pressure building up in the system.

This diagram is from an article on my site covering the brakes on my corvette but it will give you idea how it all works.



Notice the lines leading down from the master cylinder.

Then note where the fluid comes in from the reservoir.

When you are driving down the road your brake pads actually lightly touch the rotor and this creates heat. Actual braking makes even more heat too.

This heat causes the fluid to expand. Normally the fluid can flow back into the reservoir when it expands thus causing no real effect other than making the fluid level rise very slightly in the reservoir.

But if the plunger is being forced into the master cylinder slightly from the pedal not returning to the proper not in use position it keeps the fluid blocked from being able to return to the reservoir.

Even though normally its not enough to actually apply your brakes when out of adjustment if the plunger is blocking the return of the fluid then as the temperature rises in the lines and it expands it has to go somewhere. Since it cant return to the reservoir it pushes the pistons out on the brake caliper thus applying the brakes. This causes drag. I spotted mine since it caused the car to slow down more than normal when letting off the gas pedal. The longer I drove the worse it got. Eventually the brakes will start smoking.

Adjusting the pedal linkage so all pressure is off the master cylinder rod when not pressed will fix it.
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2019, 07:08 AM
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explanation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowz View Post
What causes this (sorry I didn't see it when it was first posted) is from having the brakes very slightly applied. I ran into this back when I converted my 323i from automatic to a stick shift. When I changed the pedals it caused them to be out of adjustment with pedal linkage. Once I took care of that no more problems.

The reason the brakes drag after you drive for awhile comes from pressure building up in the system.

This diagram is from an article on my site covering the brakes on my corvette but it will give you idea how it all works.



Notice the lines leading down from the master cylinder.

Then note where the fluid comes in from the reservoir.

When you are driving down the road your brake pads actually lightly touch the rotor and this creates heat. Actual braking makes even more heat too.

This heat causes the fluid to expand. Normally the fluid can flow back into the reservoir when it expands thus causing no real effect other than making the fluid level rise very slightly in the reservoir.

But if the plunger is being forced into the master cylinder slightly from the pedal not returning to the proper not in use position it keeps the fluid blocked from being able to return to the reservoir.

Even though normally its not enough to actually apply your brakes when out of adjustment if the plunger is blocking the return of the fluid then as the temperature rises in the lines and it expands it has to go somewhere. Since it cant return to the reservoir it pushes the pistons out on the brake caliper thus applying the brakes. This causes drag. I spotted mine since it caused the car to slow down more than normal when letting off the gas pedal. The longer I drove the worse it got. Eventually the brakes will start smoking.

Adjusting the pedal linkage so all pressure is off the master cylinder rod when not pressed will fix it.
Nice explanation. Makes sense. I hope for them it really is that simple. I wonder what the cause of the maladjustment would be.

Certainly gives you a place to start and all troubleshooting charts start with the simple things.
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2019, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tttomttt View Post
Nice explanation. Makes sense. I hope for them it really is that simple. I wonder what the cause of the maladjustment would be.

Certainly gives you a place to start and all troubleshooting charts start with the simple things.
There are several things that can cause the pedal to not go back all the way. Putting a new master cylinder on to changing the brake booster could cause issues. The tab on the pedal was bent on mine I think. I cant remember its been a few years since I ran into this.
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2019, 03:30 AM
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If the pedal and linkage isn't the problem you might check if there isn't some crap stuck between the piston and the snap ring that doesn't let it come back all the way.
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