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  #141  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Second sensor in a cup of oil heat to 115C with a lighter. Or simply determine the Ω range and use a potentiometer. (Miss difficult to do with 3-lead sensor)
1. The sensor resistance specs are published in the BMW TIS..

2. I cannot get at the sensor on the engine, at least, not without removing the entire inlet manifold.

But yeah, there's a number of way to do this...
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  #142  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Second sensor in a cup of oil heat to 115C with a lighter. Or simply determine the Ω range and use a potentiometer. (Miss difficult to do with 3-lead sensor)

Just remembered! I have a spare sensor for my BMW motorcycle laying about the place somewhere (on loan to another rider I think, to test a fault on his bike...) - and it's the same BMW part (as mentioned earlier). That makes things a little easier.

BTW, the dual sensor is not a three wire deal (no common wire). Each of the two sensors is totally isolated from the other - electrically anyway. Thermally they are the same!
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  #143  
Old 01-04-2019, 01:49 PM
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OK, I have the Uebertemp warning changed to 115 C and will verify later that light actually comes on at that temp. The factory settings are 125 and 135 and I think that is for diesel/gas so those who are not comfortable with 135 should probably check into this. I left the uebertemp warning to can bus active (I am pretty sure I had set it that way a couple of years ago when I first started playing around with NCS Expert) so if it this works then guys with the fancy can bus head units could in theory use that for a warning as well. That being said, I guess you could probably monitor the coolant temp and set your own alarm point with the head unit.

Reminder-- I am working with low cluster.

Sorry that should read 130 not 135
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Last edited by 80stech; 01-05-2019 at 02:29 PM. Reason: add
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  #144  
Old 01-04-2019, 11:52 PM
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So I did a bit more testing and found that even though I have 115 C coded the warning light still only comes on at 125! I also have warning to CAN bus active so maybe that is why. It might act as a toggle(or gate) so I will change that to inactive and try again tomorrow. BTW INPA puts an exclamation mark on the screen at 120 C and voltage across DME side of the sender is 0.40 volts at 126 C and light on.
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  #145  
Old 01-05-2019, 05:35 PM
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This is not looking good! ;( I still only have light at 125 C even with CAN bus set to not active. Still only at 125 C even with factory option set to 130 C! I get the feeling that the DME is what gives the signal for the light like Overboost was saying and these LCM variables are more for you guys with the high cluster.
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  #146  
Old 01-08-2019, 12:42 PM
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Here is some interesting and relevant info that was provided Quicksilver7 in another thread!
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Last edited by 80stech; 01-08-2019 at 12:48 PM. Reason: add
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  #147  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
Here is some interesting and relevant info that was provided Quicksilver7 in another thread!
Hmm... so that info. requires a re-think of how the alerts etc. work...

Still trying to track down my spare sensor so I can test my new 110c setting. I guess a chunk of cardboard down the grill might do it too..
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  #148  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:40 PM
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Just set it to 85C or so and when the motor warms up to normal the light should come on. If it does then set it back to 110C your wanting for the final setting.
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  #149  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:41 PM
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I think even the connector is hard to get to. If you have a resistor (variable better) that goes between 50 and about 200 ohms you should be able to "add" some temp and track in INPA or PA soft as engine warms up to see what happens. The wiring is easily accessible in the E-box.

Or like Crowz suggested you can't be sure that way but from what we already found out if it doesn't work there is a good chance that it won't.
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  #150  
Old 01-09-2019, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Hmm... so that info. requires a re-think of how the alerts etc. work...

Still trying to track down my spare sensor so I can test my new 110c setting. I guess a chunk of cardboard down the grill might do it too..
Yes, with this new info I am wondering if the 115C alarm I set will actually work if the message is limited to the CAN message from the DME.
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