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  #21  
Old 03-11-2019, 10:51 AM
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That image shows the sending units are doing their job. (also that with the right side less than 1L, the siphon jet isn't doing its job).

There is a small chance the fuel pump is wearing our and not pushing enough pressure but it's almost just theoretical that could happen before the o-ring on the siphon jet fails.

It seems to be just about 4500 hours before they fail and with 214k km that's about 47 kph average which seems just about right. Both mine and wife's siphon jet failed just 125-130,000 miles (about 210,000km.

Every example of a car with gas starvation at 1/4 tank that I've followed has been the siphon o-ring. It's a clear design flaw and I recommend people preemptively fix around 3500-4000 hours before it fails because it's a stupid simple fix just add a zip tie.

The other seal will also fail because there is no o-ring it's a nylon to nylon seal that by the time I fixed mine and wife's there was a 0.1mm gap the full way around so gas leaked out of course but a hose clamp around that seal should reign in that leak also so having to tear it apart and add a o-ring.
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  #22  
Old 03-11-2019, 04:59 PM
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Hi guys - sorry to hijack the thread but can someone explaing the PHASE thing ?


Mine has the opposite symptoms of yours - I fill the tank up but the gauge never goes over 3/4 so these hidden parameters could help me loads !
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:17 PM
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Get into hidden menu 6 and I'm betting one of your fuel senders is reporting 0. Usual cause is a broken resistive element.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:28 PM
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Many thanks
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulpen View Post
Many thanks


On the high cluster cars, it will indicate with a phase number the quality of the level sensor readings.
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulpen View Post
Hi guys - sorry to hijack the thread but can someone explaing the PHASE thing ?

Mine has the opposite symptoms of yours -

Did you see the explanation of what "PHASE 1, 2 & 3" means in post #15?

If not...see the quote below:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
... when you go to the 3rd screen of TEST 6...what "PHASE" is it giving?
  • PHASE 1 - regular computing method by way of sensors (both sensors OK)
  • PHASE 2 - calculation in progress from TKVA signal (sensor faulted)
  • PHASE 3 - fuel tank contents can not be computed, fuel gauge reads 0 (at least one sensor is faulted)
Example of TEST 6's 3rd screen (if you have the HIGH cluster):
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:03 PM
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I missed that tbh
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:57 PM
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When I get to do the job I will have to decide whether to do the teflon thing on the other one or just install the plastic tie. A bit nervous about the teflon. Wouldn’t want a tiny bit to break off and get clogged in the fuel system. I would say it would then be a pain to find.

The other decision is to whether to prop up the back seat base or remove the centre seat belt (undoing that bolt) and remove the base of the rear seat from car altogether.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:41 AM
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You can test for the teflon fix joint after o-ring replaced. If it only drips a little you don't need to fix it. You can also simply put a hose clamp around to snug it up and not disassemble that joint which is by far the most difficult part of that repair.

The o-ring replace is 3/10 the teflon joint is 6/10 difficult. 2/10 to add external clamp.

If a bit of teflon got out of that joint, it would not likely get through the screen at the foot of the fuel pump and if it did, it would just end up in the filter, it wouldn't dissolve or anything so it's not risky.

Also: look at the photo of my teflon repair: use quality Teflon like FasTape and it will look like it was painted on. There are no stings hanging off etc.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:51 AM
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Re: prop up seat back: it's so much easier to work with the seat removed "I swore" that I will always remove when doing fuel tank work, but I've revised that thinking that if I'm only working one side I'll leave the seat propped up.

I've done both ways numerous times. I actually will say for first timer, remove the seat: the hardest part is putting back is fishing the buckles back in: put some duct tape about 2' long, tape to one side of buckle, out a foot, doubled back and taped to the other side of the buckle. (You can thank me later!)

You can test the siphon for leaks by propping the left side open an inch or so but don't do that test until o-ring is replaced. See my video where I test of an iPhone 7 is gas resistant!

I would recommend adding a hose clamp around the non o-ring joint just to keep it from leaking too much even if it doesn't drip yet. The system will work just fine with that joint dripping a little. If you get less than a drip a second, it will not affect the siphon.
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