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  #11  
Old 03-12-2019, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talljames View Post
Another thought, I only have water circulating and that might be why it is running hot. A coolent additive (coolent) would normally reduce the temp. It has become more water because of the constant leak and top ups. ...
You need to sort this sooner rather than later - water-only (or a very diluted coolant) can eat your motor from the inside out in short order.... the correct coolant contains corrosion inhibitors....

And yes, water only doesn't cool as well as the correct coolant.
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2019, 05:42 AM
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Water alone will provide most of the cooling and heating required.

A couple things that are quite important:

The most important factors of coolant are that it won't freeze so it won't expand and break the engine but also that It prevents corrosion. Water alone will corrode aluminum or iron engines especially with the heat.

Then, it's crucial to never put tap water in your engine as the disolved solids will cook themselves to the inside of the engine.

Get the leak figured out. Stuff some paper towels where you suspect the leak is and where wetness forms there ya go. Some leaks when slow enough won't ever drip they evaporate first but once paper towel becomes wet it's permanently changed in texture so it's a good tracer. The reservoir tank is the most common leak source.


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  #13  
Old 03-12-2019, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Water alone will provide most of the cooling and heating required.

A couple things that are quite important:

The most important factors of coolant are that it won't freeze so it won't expand and break the engine but also that It prevents corrosion. Water alone will corrode aluminum or iron engines especially with the heat.

Then, it's crucial to never put tap water in your engine as the disolved solids will cook themselves to the inside of the engine.

Get the leak figured out. Stuff some paper towels where you suspect the leak is and where wetness forms there ya go. Some leaks when slow enough won't ever drip they evaporate first but once paper towel becomes wet it's permanently changed in texture so it's a good tracer. The reservoir tank is the most common leak source.


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When I had my leak that I was having difficulty locating I put UV dye in the coolant. Using a black light flashlight allowed me to easily pin point the leak.
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:52 PM
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X5 E53 2005 Heater Control Valve

Coolant usually has some florescent dye in it. I think I will actually have to find my UV flashlight and try that with wife's. I have a feeling one of the reused o-ring seals from when I replaced the reservoir might be the culprit.

I need to add a pint every week or so with wife's car id like to get that resolved.

Where was the leak in your case?

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Last edited by andrewwynn; 03-12-2019 at 02:01 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:09 AM
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Thanks for the comments since my last post. I did end up finding the leak. It was hidden behind the expansion tank under the seam. See photos. So will be ordering a new expansion tank and cap. Apparently this is a common problem and can occur if you overfill too often too. Yes, will definately get some coolent in sooner rather than later. When I asked BMW about topping up the guy said just use water. So, thanks for the info.

I was reading there is a way to bleed out air pockets with the cap off. Need to find out how.
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:48 AM
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On another note I just found out from another thread that 105 deg is normal. “Reviving an old post.
My 2004 4.4l N62 engine is always at 105įC at operating temperature (as per KTEMP on the unlocked cluster). Is this the correct value for these engines?”

The responses were yes to this. So, looks like I dont have a temp problem.


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  #17  
Old 03-13-2019, 03:01 AM
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Did you say you picked up a quality scanner? Nt510 will read live data for the coolant valves and the heater cores it's very helpful.

It also helped me solve a mystery that was bugging the crap out of me: why does my car have a heartbeat!?

If you listen close while engine is idling, and ambient temperature is 40-50F outside, you will hear an obvious lub dub sound exactly like a heartbeat; it turned out to be the heater coolant valves opening and closing.


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  #18  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:25 AM
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I have a iCarsoft BM multi-system scanner i910-II. but I am not sure how to drill down to the right menu on it yet.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:38 AM
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I am also going to do a thermal test on the heater control valve pipes, input and output, when i have the heat turned on in the cabin. I also understand that if you disconnect the power plug to it the heater control valve defaults to open allowing hot water pass and also a voltage test on the plug will tell me if the signal is getting to the heater control valve as well. Some things to do.

By the way, for my model car e53 4.4i 2005 there is virtually nothing on the site or google that shows where the auxillary water pump is. I think I know why as I found one that said it is under the power steering resevoir which will be easier to see once the expansion tank is out.
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2019, 06:59 AM
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So, my expansion tank and cap arrived. But a thought crossed my mind. I know my heating isnít working in the cabin - not sure if fsr, aux water pump or heater control valve yet. But, if I put this new expansion tank in do I run the risk of cracking it because of my heating problem?

Will let the forum know how easy it was. cheers

Last edited by talljames; 03-19-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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