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  #21  
Old 03-31-2019, 08:56 PM
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http://whatismycar.com/files/bmw_bol...ifications.pdf

General thread by size torque chart from BMW.

By size and grade it's pretty complete.

https://xoutpost.com/e5344waterpump.htm

For M62 I think. I'm not aware of what difference in the N62 and M62 but if the water pump is similar the DIY should be quite helpful
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  #22  
Old 03-31-2019, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
When in doubt…

C4
You forgot to add "while walking away nonchalantly...."

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  #23  
Old 03-31-2019, 10:47 PM
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I was just quoting Jaimie Hyneman from Myth Busters in one of the very rare cases where he shows emotion.
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  #24  
Old 04-03-2019, 01:02 PM
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Parts is parts?

Just got the replacement parts n all looks fine-but question a few odd things.
First - my really old clutch fan is OEM n still spins manually very stiff- should I replace it with this new one in the kit? Do I file off those cast residue knobs?
And do I file the residue bumper on the aluminum w.pump impeller?

Getting ready to install all new parts - - new 90’ angle impact is a savior!! Luv this tool for a job like this.
Not sure if the pics attach worked.
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Last edited by Bmwtvboy; 04-03-2019 at 01:07 PM.
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2019, 02:30 PM
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Stripped studs, now what?

OK, made a huge mistake. Bought some new nut fasteners for the water pump. Used the old ones and then used a new one, it was a lock nut, it stripped out the stud for the water pump studs. Just one. I thought, maybe use the old nut and the new locked nut I can't get off the stud after I unscrewed the stud out. The two nut system worked until I went to torque it down, boom. Literally pulled a thin lining of stud material from the w.pump housing. What are my easiest , best fix options? I don't have a tap n die kit, never done it either.
Thanks.
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2019, 03:50 PM
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I'm so confused. real-oem shows a nut to hold the pump onto threads the repair manual shows a bolt that goes into a threaded hole.

are you saying you pulled the stud out of the timing cover and want to replace it?

check out how much meat is left and how deep can you go before you actually poke a hole; i had a nearly identical problem happen on a lawnmower with an aluminum block where they had 1/4" bolts and should have used 5/16; well guess what i did? I bumped up to 5/16 and it solved the problem perfectly.

thankfully it's not the block; there is almost certainly enough metal to drill out to tap for 5/16 then just use a bolt don't bother with a stud and nut.

The loose normal thread drill size is 9/32 but the tighter thread might give more strength in aluminum is size "I", by coincidence 7mm is right between them.

you can buy single taps and often they include the ideal size bit.

use the water pump as the guide for the drill; drill out the hole first to 9/32 through the corresponding hole of the water pump then into the chain tensioner cover. Then re-drill the water pump to 5/16 (with a little wobble) technically it's supposed to be a P or Q drill.

bottom tap to 5/16-24.
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Old 04-08-2019, 06:00 PM
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FYI, I use HEPU WP in my M52 and M54 engines.
HEPU lasts 100k miles easily.

You are lucky b/c the WP sealing effect is via SIDEWAY squeezing of the O-ring (back in the old days, it was paper gasket). So, even if you tighten the nuts down snug and don't torque them at all, the O-ring will seal just fine.

As mentioned above, check the block side (Aluminum) to see how much threads you have.
One old trick is to switch to SAE stud that is a tiny bit larger than factory stud. Same length but a bit "fatter". This way you avoid Timesert. Of course use a nut appropriate for that SAE stud.

Apply some Loctite and go easy, just a bit shy of factory torque spec and you will be fine.
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2019, 06:02 PM
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It is supposed to be M6 nuts on studs coming from the lower timing chain cover. 10 Nm torque spec.

It might be a good idea to figure out if the problem was that your replacement nuts were wrong. SAE 1/4-20 is a very common size that is kind of close to M6-1.0. Close enough to cause problems, not close enough to work.

I agree that tapping a hole and using a bolt would be the best solution. I'd go with M8 rather than SAE sizing, but that's just a preference. Make sure you get the right length bolt, whatever it is.

If you have not tapped before, I'd practice on something non-critical first. Any problems you think you have now will seem trivial if you snap the tap off in the timing cover.

Things that help tapping:
- drilling the correct sized hole so you're not cutting more material than you need to with the tap.
- use cutting / tapping fluid. If you don't have that, oil or WD-40 is better than doing it dry
- 2 steps forward one step back to break off the chips. remove the tap periodically to get all the chips out of the hole. Have a plan to catch the chips, otherwise you may have them distributed throughout your engine bay, driveway, drive belt, etc.
- bottom tap may be needed. I've converted a regular tap into a bottom tap when needed, using a Dremel cutoff wheel.
- make really sure the tap goes in straight when you first start, otherwise you'll be fighting harder and harder as you go, until it snaps.
- the tapping should really not take much torque. if it is, something might be wrong
- practice first. watch some youtube

It's not difficult as long as you don't make a mistake.
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2019, 06:25 PM
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M8 more logical just often harder to find drill bits to match unless you get a kit. Actually based on M8 basically identical in size best to not introduce a weird Jon metric bolt.

Great tips above. The main point of using the smaller drill first through the water pump is to use that as a perfect guide of normal.

If old pump is aluminum perfect to practice.

When tapping critical and soft material, use a method like 1/2 turn clock wise 1/4 turn CCW and repeat. (1/4, 1/8 if the tap binds).




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  #30  
Old 04-08-2019, 06:58 PM
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Get an old piece of Aluminum (old thrust arm etc.) and practice.

Drill and tap to 6mm threads as the WP stud.
Now try the SAE 1/4-20 bolt, it will be a bit tighter and works just fine.

I have done this many times (going from metric to SAE).
Since the SAE is a tiny tiny bit "fatter" I did not need to tap anything, just simply use a "fatter stud". Very easy fix.

Remember, you don't have much room to drill, one mistake you may end up with a new block! So again, try the SAE trick. Too bad you don't live here, otherwise I can show you how it works.
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