Blown out water pump..

[Bmwtvboy]

You guys are all amazing. Thank you. But as a novice, I over reacted. The thin material on the stud was a lock tight product BMW. The threads in the timing cover that hold down the pump were fine. Turns out, it is an M6/30mm stud, but I had to replace the two lower studs setups with an M6/25mm hex bolt. IT worked out great. Tightened it snug and careful not to strip. Almost done.
I figured the heavier/bigger meatier tension pulley goes on the top near the alternator pulley and the lighter one goes to the A/C belt. BTW, they spin but not super fast/freely. Is that OK? I finish up tomorrow, rained out. Should be able to button up in an hour. Thermo went on easy. Thank you again for your support and patience. J

[cn90]

Re belt pulley...

I wrote a "Partial Cooling Overhaul" in the forum.
Search for it, it has all info on belts, pulleys etc.

[andrewwynn]

Smart thinking swapping to a bolt is have some the same.


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[Bmwtvboy]

Wow, once I bolted up the w.pump it was pretty straight forward. Now it runs great, sounds smooth and no leaks. NEXT up, driver window issue/switch or motor. Basic maintenance: Tranny fluids, check front diff fluid, maybe throw on some outer tie rods.
BUT, there is a weird CLUNK noise coming from the rear when pulling from a stop and turning. UH oh? Any ideas. Remember, it's all original in the rear.

[andrewwynn]

Find my door switch repair. It's common for the door switch to retain water and corrode until the window only goes up.

If the window wiggles or dim lights when you request up then the motor is fine it's almost certainly the ckt trace.

I made a diagram exactly where to add a jumper to fix the problem

[Bmwtvboy]

Sometimes, rarely now, the window goes down about a 1/3. Then, press the switch again and it goes all the way down. Goes up on a single pull on the switch and can be stopped and re switched up at any point. All the other windows work just fine from the door console. Where is your post? Does the entire window regulator have to come out to change out the motor? Never done this before. Thanks again for your assistance.

[andrewwynn]

100% chance the down trace is corroded. Go find my repair thread you can fix with a few jumper wires.


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[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bmwtvboy

Wow, once I bolted up the w.pump it was pretty straight forward. Now it runs great, sounds smooth and no leaks. NEXT up, driver window issue/switch or motor. Basic maintenance: Tranny fluids, check front diff fluid, maybe throw on some outer tie rods.
BUT, there is a weird CLUNK noise coming from the rear when pulling from a stop and turning. UH oh? Any ideas. Remember, it's all original in the rear.

Subframe bushings maybe.

[cn90]

Rear end clunking noise...likely REAR CV joint needing grease.
I wrote the DIY in bimmerfest E39 forum.

[andrewwynn]

DIY repair of window control module
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...1&share_type=t