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  #1  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:59 AM
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Rear brake bleed help. Air in ABS/DSC

So i've searched and searched but all threads and posts end with no solution.
Seems the rear brake lines rusted out under the drivers seat, so they were leaking for a bit. i'm guessing air got in the system which sucks.
I tried to bleed old school with the pedal, and gravity bleed yesterday for a couple hours. I only got about a half a quart/litre of fluid through both rear callipers, so i hooked up my Reihngold setup and got to the bleed section where it triggers the ABS/DSC module.
Problem is, it says to release the vent screw then click next...
Is there a vent screw on the DSC module? ( I don't see one.) Or is the vent screw the bleeder screws on the callipers?
Maybe i need to do the bleed procedure longer?
Every time i do the bleed procedure with my laptop i do see the fluid coming out the bleed screws at the calipers , but still no pressure to move the callipers.
This thing is driving me nuts!!!!
HELP!!!!
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:27 AM
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Motive Products 0100 European... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0...p_mob_ap_share

You need to pressurize the reservoir with the likes of this then do the bleed procedure RR, LR, RF, LF.

When I blew my rear line (same place, manufacturing defect; the line is bent too far at the factory defeats the rust prevention), I was careful to keep enough fluid in the reservoir I never got air in the system I didn't need to bleed the front or abs block but there are two steps to bleeding the abs; the block and the precharge pump, you should be able to find in your software. Either one needs the reservoir pressurised to work properly.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Motive Products 0100 European... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0...p_mob_ap_share

You need to pressurize the reservoir with the likes of this then do the bleed procedure RR, LR, RF, LF.

When I blew my rear line (same place, manufacturing defect; the line is bent too far at the factory defeats the rust prevention), I was careful to keep enough fluid in the reservoir I never got air in the system I didn't need to bleed the front or abs block but there are two steps to bleeding the abs; the block and the precharge pump, you should be able to find in your software. Either one needs the reservoir pressurised to work properly.
Thanks! yes, I guess so to keep the flow going and force the fluid through the system.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:37 AM
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Rear brake bleed help. Air in ABS/DSC

Yes exactly. When no air in the system the old school pump the brakes trick works once air in the system waste of time. I read dozens of posts before bleeding my brakes and the consensus is use the pressure bleeder.

Also find the steps for the order to do the abs parts I forget which to do first.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Yes exactly. When no air in the system the old school pump the brakes trick works once air in the system waste of time. I read dozens of posts before bleeding my brakes and the consensus is use the pressure bleeder.

Also find the steps for the order to do the abs parts I forget which to do first.
when you say the order, do you mean the furthest one first?
RR, LR, RF, LF.... ?
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:27 AM
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Correct. Right rear etc.


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Old 04-16-2019, 04:59 PM
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depending on your results from pressure bleeding alone, you may need to activate the ABS system with a scan tool to actuate each piston while you bleed each corner.. You will know if you need to when the pedal never gets to FIRM.

Try pressure bleed only and see if you get lucky.

There are only two choices on the repair: The entire line from ABS to each caliper OR splice the rusted lines under the driver's side where the main rusted line start due to the materials and bends BMW used way back in 2000. Yes you need to remove that big panel, which I am surte you already have as you saw the rust already.

On the lines, Use a proper flaring tool and make the DIN Bubble ends with the right fittings. It will solve lots of time and frustration.
Source: Line and fittings https://agscompany.com/ (you will need both fitting sizing)
*Steel Tube Nut, 3/16 (M10x1.0 Bubble)
*Steel Tube Nut, 3/16 (M12x1.0 Bubble)
Union (if you are going to splice them)
*Steel Brake Line Union, 3/16 (M10x1.0 Bubble)
*Brass Brake Line Union, 6mm (M12x1.0 Bubble)

Line:
NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil, 3/16″ x 100′
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:03 PM
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Yes very important iso not double flare. Iso flare tightens from internal pressure double flare pushes apart from internal pressure.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0SGhtLJ3JIy2hw

Pics from my rear brake line replace. Including the perfect clone method to replicate the pipes.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:10 PM
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+1^

I used this expensive tool which made it simple.
S.U.R.&R. Flaring Tools HFT50
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The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:26 PM
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I'll just add that a pressure bleeder can be made using an older BMW brake cylinder cap and a $10 manual pump garden sprayer.

AM.
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