Rear upper balljoint loose. What else to replace?

[SlickGT1]

Anyone have the torque specs handy for all the rear suspension stuff? And which bolts to tighten on the ground? Ty in advance.

Posted this in 3 posts already, because I have all my stuff ready about to go remove stuff, about to get dirty, forgot torque specs. Niiiice.

Anyway ty in advance.

And you right LVR. Tool does have a slot and a ground edge.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

That's usually my approach. Not the most economical way to go about things... but usually the most reliable. Usually.

This definitely the way to go. An entire rear refresh.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Anyone have the torque specs handy for all the rear suspension stuff? And which bolts to tighten on the ground? Ty in advance.

Posted this in 3 posts already, because I have all my stuff ready about to go remove stuff, about to get dirty, forgot torque specs. Niiiice.

Anyway ty in advance.

And you right LVR. Tool does have a slot and a ground edge.

The torque specs are in the TIS.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...struts/5fOkTQS

The notes indicated which ones need to be torqued with the car lowered.

I keep an old iPad handy and close to the workshop for info. like this....

[SlickGT1]

Holy shit. Driver side took me 8 hours. Pass side 2 hours. All in, start to finish was almost 11 hours, including cleanup and nuclear shower for me. I will write it up later.

But maiden voyage confirmed, rear upper control arms were in-fact the cause of my vibration at speed. I discovered this by compressing the air bag while on the lift. Car feels very nice and tight now. Need an alignment now.

Ty all that helped.

Oh and ty for all that helped. Couldn’t have done it without the forum. Ty.

[SlickGT1]

So this turned into a huge ass time crunch for the driver side, and much much faster on pass side.



First off, anyone ordering that tool to press out the bushing, needs to know that it does not work out of the box. The flat part people mention that lets it clear the arm, is false. I discovered this upon further inspection after I grenaded the bearing in the tool, and put in a healthy bend on the bolt. I then proceeded to take my angle grinder, and take of a nice amount of the thickness from about 1" of the edge. This allowed the receiver cup to sit flush with the arm.


I then heated and straightened the bolt. Then made a washer sandwich as there was no more bearing in the receiver cup.



This caused me extensive delays. As at this point I was between a rock and a hard place.



Once this issue with the tool was resolved, I managed to get the bushing out in two passes, mostly due to fear of me breaking the bolt. The other side went much easier.



So the Lemfoerder upper control arms don't have the bolt hole line up that hold the plastic wire holder thing. Had to make two offset bolts, as I didn't think drilling the arm for the little screw would be smart.



I realized that I need a lot more stubby impact sockets. The amount of times I couldn't get my gun in some of the places was frustrating.



Integral link is another pain in the ass. You must use the long bolt, to press the integral link onto the bushing before trying to slip that into the lower control arm.



All in all, it is a heavy, job. Dirty. Not too difficult if the tool does not fail.



Took me 2 hours for the passenger side. But that not including the cleanup, or setup that happened before the drivers side began. Knowing that the tool must be modified, and modifying it before starting would have saved me a lot of hours fixing it. Anyway, I'm sore.



The really good news is that this has now resolved the last of that vibration at highway speeds. Upper control arms were shot. The balljoints were all cracked at the boots and had dirt in them. 104k miles.

[twinspool]

so wait, the conti tires weren't the problem with vibration?? the rear refresh cured it...

[LVR]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

First off, anyone ordering that tool to press out the bushing, needs to know that it does not work out of the box. The flat part people mention that lets it clear the arm, is false.

Did your tool look like this? As mine did work no problems once I ensured it was lined up in the small gap...

[SlickGT1]

Yea exactly like that. And exactly like the reviews on Amazon, does not work on 2006. Curious if part numbers changed. But yes, even with that, it was still too thick.

I’m pretty sure it’s just better to cut out a section of that cup.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Yea exactly like that. And exactly like the reviews on Amazon, does not work on 2006. Curious if part numbers changed. But yes, even with that, it was still too thick.

I’m pretty sure it’s just better to cut out a section of that cup.

Can you please post a pic of your modified cup?

[andrewwynn]

I have a similar tool but it was model specific to E53. The flat is pretty thin. I haven't used yet but will report back if I need to cut the notch through or thinner.

What month was the '06 made? My wife has a 2000.5 model they called 01 but built like an 00. Wonder if there are 07 parts on that 06.