Intro - New owner of E53 with a bunch of little issues.

[DacidSalin]

Thanks for the feedback so far.

I lifted the hand brake boot and the entire car stunk to high heaven. Pulled the center console out using this. It was pretty filthy under there.. Found wires to the hazard and door lock chewed up pretty badly. One wire on the trans selector also. Easy fix.

Scrubbed the carpet - dug my jug of OdoBan out and it had about 2" left in it. Mixed up 25% solution in a spray bottle. Found a nest and a couple cups of dog food in the duct that goes to the back seat. Nice for distributing odors.

The mice used the channels under the carpet to get to the back. Under the rear seat on each side there were a lot of droppings. Next is pulling the front seats and the rear carpet. I'm considering going forward into the blower and ducting also after what I found in the rear seat duct. Want to make sure I eradicate this. Who would have thunk. 2 days into owning a car, I've torn the interior halfway out already (rear, center console, back seat).


The parking brake cables make noise that I can hear when I operate the lever and they are drawn back in when I release the lever, so the cables may be intact. When the lever is down, there is about a 2mm of play at the end of the cables. Maybe they just need to be tightened, I'm wondering if someone went for a drive with the brake set. Will pull the rotors after I'm done cleaning but before I install the center console - will make running the cables easier if that's the case.

Originally Posted by EODguy

You can buy a fleabay switchblade key fob (get correct mhz) and program it yourself with the AK90 programmer although you must take the ews out and plug it into the AK90/laptop setup. Total cost key, programmer about 100 USD.

That's what I'm talking about. And I can program a few. Local dealer is 7 hours away. Not so local. 2 days off of work, 2 or 3 tanks of fuel, place to stay or camp, food, etc. Turns into an easy $600 or more.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Yes, it's supposed to push down and latch. Another push un-latches it and it pops up. Not hard to replace if it's failed.

After I took the console apart, the switch was in 4 pieces. 2 springs, the bottom with the connector and circuit board and the top. I cleaned it up and put it all back together. Just 4 tiny plastic clips holding it together. I taped it up. Enough for now and it is pretty easy to get to. I suppose I could weld it together, but I want to test it first. Buttons feel good.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Probably the driver airbag - once it's sorted, you'll need to reset the SRS to see if the error stays gone.

So Foxwell code scanner or go the Bavarian route? I'm thinking Bavarian Technic due to the flexibility and I'm used to grabbing the laptop and heading out to the car.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Yep, it is. There's a couple of repair options - either a display ribbon replacement kit or a new LCD that includes the ribbon. Not a hard DIY but it take LOTS of patience and care. There's many folk online who will do this for you too.

Thanks - I'll review that option. I do like the in dash Android replacement option though.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Try to get the factory trailer module (BMW #61356955253) to sort the electrics- it's so much better. The module plugs into a connector near the battery and the trailer loom then attaches to a connector near the bumper (inside the spare tyre well). Use of this module allows the car to monitor brake lights etc. and disable rear parking sensors when a trailer is attached. It also modifies the ABS/DSC settings when a trailer is attached.

I do like the idea of having this done right and getting rid of the U-Haul electrics. Ground wasn't hooked up so I don't know that it works or ever did.

Might there be some way parking sensors when there is a bike rack installed? I don't notice a difference. It just beeps when I go into reverse and the light flashes on the switch. Even with nothing in the hitch and nothing behind me.

Originally Posted by wpoll

Jack rubber tension strap is BMW #51717033682

Sweet! I don't want the jack rattling around. I don't know why I didn't think of ECS

Originally Posted by wpoll

Tail gate stay bar - BMW #51717009683 - which is used when removing spare, is sitting in the floor tray, to the forward right...

That whole idea is pretty clever. I had no idea and just lifted the spare out. But it's a full sized tire on a full sized rim. Someone small couldn't do that.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by DacidSalin

That's what I'm talking about. And I can program a few. Local dealer is 7 hours away. Not so local. 2 days off of work, 2 or 3 tanks of fuel, place to stay or camp, food, etc. Turns into an easy $600 or more.

Just order online - no need to drive anywhere. You'll need to provide proof of ownership etc. but that's easy enough.

The new key ships already programmed to your existing EWS - the only programming the dealer would do is the sync the key for the lock\unlock function - and you can do that yourself - no tools etc.

The programming of an after-market key is certainly possible but involves too much work that can permanently damage your EWS. It's not a route I would take just to save money (and not much at that) but I would certainly use it to get a non-running car back to running condition again!