X5 E53 Air Conditioning - all systems go but no cold air

[upallnight]

Your gauge set that you used for checking the pressure, when you fit the bayonet fittings over the valve stems, do you turn the knob to open the valves?

[andrewwynn]

He got pressure reading so must have unless the manifold knobs were both open to equalize through the can fitting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[OnewireAT1]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Your gauge set that you used for checking the pressure, when you fit the bayonet fittings over the valve stems, do you turn the knob to open the valves?

Yes.. :/ the knobs were turned fully clockwise depressing the valve stems upon testing. The gauges reacted as I screwed open the valve. 0 to 30 .. stoped and then they bumped up to 37 on ac turned on.


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

[OnewireAT1]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Your gauge set that you used for checking the pressure, when you fit the bayonet fittings over the valve stems, do you turn the knob to open the valves?

Yes....
I firmly attached the bayonets and then opened both; turning clockwise until the stem needles were depressed and pressure readings appeared (@initially 30 psi). I turned them all the way open.. another turn. They were both responsive.


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

[OnewireAT1]

The gauges are a rental from my local parts shop.. I can try testing 1 valve open at a time but when I disconnected them last test I closed the valves first before removing them. Both gauges held pressure. I removed the low hose completely and the pressure let off the low side only.. then I disconnected the high side hide from the gauge and it independently let off its 37psi.. so I don’t think there is a bleed through issue in the testing gauge itself..


Sent from my Frontal Lobe using Xoutpost.com

[upallnight]

If you have the Calsonic Kansei compressor you have a variable displacement compressor. I would just bite the bullet and replace the compressor with a non variable compressor.

https://www.discountacparts.com/buyn...or/60-01977_NA

If you do replace the compressor, when the old compressor is out, try spinning it with you hand and cover the ports that the refrigerant lines are connected to it. Do you feel one port going into vacuum and the other port going into pressure? Mostly likely not.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

He got pressure reading so must have unless the manifold knobs were both open to equalize through the can fitting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Never know the the mechanic skill of some of the noobs that post here. I seen noob connect the hose and forget to turn the knob to open the valve. Pressure on the gauge could be left over from a previous use if the valve for the gauge were closed before disconnect.

[upallnight]

See the comment in this Youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lvpdp7NTdY

LMAO

[andrewwynn]

That's AWESOME. did you search gooffle or YouTube to find that!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[OnewireAT1]

I was wondering with regards to the Heater Control Valve... I gleened that the heater core is normally open without power. This means that hot water is normally flowing through the heater core and could create a always heat scenario.

However, after thinking about this more .. If the car has not been run today .. and it is 75 degrees here, there would NOT initially be hot coolant flowing through the core.. and if this were the only issue then I should have initial AC of some sort and then it would get hot with the car..

Voting : Agreed ? / Disagree ? / Makes no sense?

I was also reading on how some HVAC systems actually have what is called a "Blended vent system" which is control flaps that separate the heating (heater core) from the cooling (Evaporator). Seems like X5 E53's have a lot of flap valves but I am not sure if it is only for the airflow itself OR if it is truly a blended - in my example I mean ..

A flap which must move in order to allow ether of the following two conditions:
1. heater core HEATED air to enter the cabin
OR
2. Evaporator CHILLED air to enter the cabin

As I am writting this.. I am remembering 2 facts, (1) my gauges are showing LOW Freon @ 37PSI (2) the gauges read same low 37PSI on both the LOW side and the HIGH side... the High side should be reading around 145PSI @ my outside ambient temperature of 70F.

This would suggest a bad compressor; however, the low pressure fill port shows full @ 37 to 50PSI .. so for some reason perhaps something is blocking the Freon from filling ?

IDK

Please feel free to chime in with any additional thoughts or consideration here.