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  #11  
Old 09-17-2019, 09:07 AM
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I will google it in the mean time but Is there a way to test the regulator or hpfp
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2019, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixman05 View Post
I will google it in the mean time but Is there a way to test the regulator or hpfp
There's a bit of testing info in the TIS...

Start here...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/BWF4dU8

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ontrol/2ogWnJE

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/BV75xp3

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/BjiHr8v
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2019, 06:19 PM
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To test the boost solenoid can you have the ignition turned on but the motor off. I connected the vac pump directly to the diaphragm and it held vacuum fine. I connected it to the hoses going to the solenoid and it leaks down immediately. Still need to confirm hoses are ok. But is this how you test the solenoid
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixman05 View Post
To test the boost solenoid can you have the ignition turned on but the motor off. I connected the vac pump directly to the diaphragm and it held vacuum fine. I connected it to the hoses going to the solenoid and it leaks down immediately. Still need to confirm hoses are ok. But is this how you test the solenoid
Don't need the ignition on.

Sounds like there a vacuum leak somewhere. Cracked vacuum reservoir? Port at hose #1 (in first image - #1b in second image) should hold vacuum. Not sure if the hose itself (looking back towards the vacuum source) will hold vacuum but assume it would too.

Here's a bunch of info on vaccum line routing: -



https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-valve/Bty4zsn



https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-valve/AXdsYr2

Also some info on the operation on the boost actuator...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tuator/XcGISOp
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  #15  
Old 10-03-2019, 04:17 AM
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Great info thx very much. I'll get back into diagnosing once i finish moving into my house tomorrow
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  #16  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:23 PM
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Tested the existing pressure converter on the bench which leaked down immediately. Tested the new eBay knock off which held vacuum. Installed the new converter but now the vanes seem to Open prematurely. The exhaust is way louder and it will only make 10.3psi boost. Will try adjust actuator arm but should you really have to?? Or are ebay converters just no good from the get go. Anyone want to watch an e53 burn to the ground at all lol so frustrating
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:37 PM
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Maybe it will take a bit of running for the DDE adaptations to get the hang of the new pressure converter...?

Yeah, you should need to adjust the actuator arm but it might be worth checking the limits...

*edit* removed info posted as I realised I had posted more relevant info about this (for DDE5.0 rather than for DDE4.0) above...

Here's the relevant link again....

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tuator/XcGISOp
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Last edited by wpoll; 10-22-2019 at 03:45 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2019, 06:11 PM
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Thx again for your replies wpoll. The boost is very laggy now and will still only reach around 13.2psi. it was all in at 22.3psi by 2500rpm before. It hasn't dropped boost like it used to but it could be cause is not reaching full boost anymore. Also the harmonic balancer come apart yesterday so no more testing for a couple of weeks lol. Ahh the cars that just keep on giving haha.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2019, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixman05 View Post
Thx again for your replies wpoll. The boost is very laggy now and will still only reach around 13.2psi. it was all in at 22.3psi by 2500rpm before. It hasn't dropped boost like it used to but it could be cause is not reaching full boost anymore. Also the harmonic balancer come apart yesterday so no more testing for a couple of weeks lol. Ahh the cars that just keep on giving haha.
Bugger... the harminoc balancer thing is a very "aussie" problem - it does happen elsewhere but it seems no anywhere as common. I'm thinking it's the heat....

As for the boost... did you check the exhaust manifold for cracks etc.?
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  #20  
Old 11-03-2019, 12:02 AM
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I've replaced the oem tin shitbox manifold about 12mths ago with a cast iron one of eBay. I'm thinking it is the boost converter just need more time to diagnosethe issue. And look at a few other things in relation to it. And harmonic balancers aren't cheap $1100 from the local shop and there's none in Australia apparently. Can source one off fleabay for about $800
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